Single parallel coil builds vs. Dual coil builds of equal total resistance

[jj6404]

I've been wanting to try a single parallel build in my rda as opposed to my usual dual coil build since I know they produce dual coil results in a single coil but I have some concerns:

1) does it heat up the juice hotter than dual coils of same total resistance?

2) would it be the same drain on the battery? More? Less?

3) would the heat up time be equal, better, or longer than with a dual coil build of same total resistance?

I'm using a Freakshow v2 on a Paragon mod clone.


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[State O' Flux]

I've been wanting to try a single parallel build in my rda as opposed to my usual dual coil build since I know they produce dual coil results in a single coil but I have some concerns:

Single parallel build? You mean a single coil? If so, then drop the "parallel" part. The term parallel is used only when there are multiple wires.

1) does it heat up the juice hotter than dual coils of same total resistance?

A single coil made from thicker wire, vs. a dual coil made from thinner wire... about the same "heat", for a given resistance... but the single coil, due to it's greater mass, will heat slower.


2) would it be the same drain on the battery? More? Less?

Interesting question... just and educated guess - if the resistance and output wattage remain the same, given the typical vaping draw time, the thicker single coil may run down a bit quicker... due to the slower heat/vape satisfaction/draw time.

3) would the heat up time be equal, better, or longer than with a dual coil build of same total resistance?

Question has been answered above.

I'm using a Freakshow v2 on a Paragon mod clone.

On a mech... as in the previous answer, resistance determines battery current output.

I suggest you click on the first two siglines below... read and learn. ;-)

Cheers

 

[jj6404]

I suggest you click on the first two siglines below... read and learn. ;-)

Cheers

Forgive me but I don't see any siglines. Is it because I'm on tapatalk?


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[jj6404]

I suggest you click on the first two siglines below... read and learn. ;-)

Cheers

OK I viewed on safari and I see them now but I know what steam engine is and I use it all the time but I don't think it answers my questions.

I'm talking about two builds of EQUAL resistance. I'm wondering if the single parallel build heats up the juice to a higher temperature because I'm trying to be conscious of the possible dangers of overheating e juice to levels that may prove potentially harmful to our health...


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[State O' Flux]

Forgive me but I don't see any siglines. Is it because I'm on tapatalk?


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Yeah... probably. It's the Steam Engine vapeware program on the interweb... then the two below that are links to the title subjects in my ECF blog. Just click the blog number '12' in my avatar data to get the the blog in general.

 

[State O' Flux]

OK I viewed on safari and I see them now but I know what steam engine is and I use it all the time but I don't think it answers my questions.

I'm talking about two builds of EQUAL resistance. I'm wondering if the single parallel build heats up the juice to a higher temperature because I'm trying to be conscious of the possible dangers of overheating e juice to levels that may prove potentially harmful to our health...


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Yes... equal, I know. You keep using the term "single parallel"... describe what that means to you.

 

[jj6404]

Two strands of kanthal side by side wrapped around a cylinder. So three wraps would in fact appear to be 6 wraps at first glance


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[jj6404]

I just noticed that on riptrippers video he said it gets really hot so I was wondering if it gets hotter than each coil of a dual coil build setup with the same ohms with the same power being passed through them

Steam engine also doesn't answer which build would have a longer ramp up time.

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[State O' Flux]

Two strands of Kanthal side by side is still, for the purposes of resistance, "heat flux" (temp) and "heat capacity" (lag time)... a dual parallel build.

However, you'll be concentrating your heat ("heat flux" is coil radiant heat expressed in milliwatts per millimeter squared, or mW/mm2... which will remain unchanged between the two coil variations) in a single location, fed by a single wick. This can be where things go a bit pear shaped.

It shouldn't be an issue, if your wick can keep up with the greater heat concentration. You'll have to experiment with coil ID, wick type, density and in-coil drag... and you may need to adjust your resistance very slightly (like 0.05Ω at a time)
to reduce the heat flux value... if your wicking scheme can't keep up.

Going back to the sigline links... the second one, the SE User Guide, will explain critical heat flux/capacity fine tuning and other user adjustable variables.

Have fun with it. I've done "side by side" dual parallels (I remember one guy... he called them "parallel parallels" ), and it's always kind of unique what you finally end up with... that works well. ;-)

Almost forgot... if you click on the box in SE that normally says "round", you'll see "round - twisted/parallel"... and your "twist pitch" will be '0'. That's your build.

 

[jj6404]

Thank you


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[State O' Flux]

Thank you


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Sure thing. If you get it working well, come back and tell us, in this thread, what you ended up doing differently - if anything - and what your perceptions / opinions are vs. a standard dual parallel.

 

[jj6404]

Well I just ripped my dual coil build out to try it and I did 8? Wraps of 26 gauge kanthal around a 3mm screwdriver. It's reading 0.7 ohms right now on my istick but I'm a little concerned that one of my wraps is either overlapping or very close to doing so. Wouldn't that result in a short? And my istick shouldn't fire in that case then right?

Sorry hard to get my camera to focus but on the left side there where it goes under is what I'm worried about.


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[jj6404]

Hmm. I also noticed that if I turn my istick 30w up to 4.2 volts to fire it, it fires, but then automatically turns it down to 3.4 volts. Any idea why?


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[State O' Flux]

26 gauge kanthal around a 3mm screwdriver. It's reading 0.7 ohms right now on my istick. I did 8?

Looks closer to about 6 'pair' to my eye.

At only 30 watts, that would be one seriously cold heat flux. Less than 100 mW/mm2 actually. You either need to use a thinner wire gauge - like 28, 29 or 30 - or build with what you have on hand at a much higher resistance... to obtain a "warmer" heat flux.

I'm a little concerned that one of my wraps is either overlapping or very close to doing so. Wouldn't that result in a short? And my istick shouldn't fire in that case then right?

No... Kanthal A1 is made of iron, chromium and aluminum. When dry heated to glowing - prior to wicking - an electrically insulative, heat conductive "alumina" (aluminum oxide) layer forms... which prevents shorting, one wrap to another.

I also noticed that if I turn my istick 30w up to 4.2 volts to fire it, it fires, but then automatically turns it down to 3.4 volts. Any idea why?

Not a clue... I don't own any regulated mods - you'll need to ask someone familiar with the iStick. I'm not sure why you're using volts rather than watts, but what ever floats yer' boat.

 

[jj6404]

I was trying to mimic the voltage of a mech mod with fresh battery.

So no concerns with the overlap?


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[edyle]

Hmm. I also noticed that if I turn my istick 30w up to 4.2 volts to fire it, it fires, but then automatically turns it down to 3.4 volts. Any idea why?


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are you trying to set the voltage, then use it in wattage mode?

you either set volts or watts, not both

 

[jj6404]

I know... I was using voltage mode. That wasn't the issue. I said that it would adjust the voltage down without me touching it after a hit or two.


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[edyle]

I know... I was using voltage mode. That wasn't the issue. I said that it would adjust the voltage down without me touching it after a hit or two.


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Well if you set the voltage to 4.2, and the istick just decides on its own to change to 3.4, sounds like a defective device.

 

[jj6404]

It could be a safety feature


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[edyle]

It could be a safety feature


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A safety feature gives you an error message or it shuts off.

If the device changes your setting, that is a defect.
If you have it in vw mode (wattage mode), the device decides what voltage to use; it might display the voltage it is using.
If you have it in vv mode (voltage mode), you decide the voltage.

I don't have an istick myself so I don't know the detail of the interface, but a lot of mods nowadays display on the screen what voltage it is outputting, which is different in vw mode from what you set in vv mode.
It might also display the battery charge state.

You said it changed the voltage but maybe you're just seeing 3.4 volts on the screen and assuming that it changed the voltage, when maybe it's just displaying the battery voltage to tell you when to charge.