SMOK CLOUD MACHINE KIT

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mudmanc4

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What's the issue with the pin?

As a side note, my tanks 510 pin was so wonky out of the box that it was touching the threading of the tank and kept shorting.

I removed the pin and jiggled the insulator about, it seemed to fix the problem.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
And we are still referring to the smok tank yes?
Ok, that is the problem.
DO NOT USE THIS TANK ON A MECH!

Two things, the rubber seal will split. There is a small protruding ring machined into the top edge inside the airflow section, which is repeatedly compressed each time the coil section is changed. This rubber is very soft, for sealing reasons, yet too soft for it's purpose, and will split causing a dead short.

IF, the design has not changed from the VTC tanks, it will not take very long. Took less than one week for two different tanks I have here.

I machined new pins from stainless screws, used one of the tanks for a mold and melted hot glue for the seal. Which also keeps the pin from touching the inside wall of the threads.

EDIT: I also used a guitar pick, ground just the size of the new pin head, and pin itself, to separate or insulate the pin from grounding against the bottom of the airflow section.

I traded that tank for another tank with the same issue, so I'll be doing this again. Right now I don't trust that VTC tank so it's collecting dust.

What is so difficult in adding a PET seal on these, much like any RDA. The pin should NEVER move for ANY reason. We learned this years ago, and it's still being done. Amazing.
 

danjaman

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Dec 18, 2014
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bristol, england.
And we are still referring to the smok tank yes?
Ok, that is the problem.
DO NOT USE THIS TANK ON A MECH!

Two things, the rubber seal will split. There is a small protruding ring machined into the top edge inside the airflow section, which is repeatedly compressed each time the coil section is changed. This rubber is very soft, for sealing reasons, yet too soft for it's purpose, and will split causing a dead short.

IF, the design has not changed from the VTC tanks, it will not take very long. Took less than one week for two different tanks I have here.

I machined new pins from stainless screws, used one of the tanks for a mold and melted hot glue for the seal. Which also keeps the pin from touching the inside wall of the threads.

EDIT: I also used a guitar pick, ground just the size of the new pin head, and pin itself, to separate or insulate the pin from grounding against the bottom of the airflow section.

I traded that tank for another tank with the same issue, so I'll be doing this again. Right now I don't trust that VTC tank so it's collecting dust.

What is so difficult in adding a PET seal on these, much like any RDA. The pin should NEVER move for ANY reason. We learned this years ago, and it's still being done. Amazing.
It was the TFV4 I was referring to, it's the first and only tank I own that's made by Smok.

I'm always careful on which tanks and RDA's I put on my SMPL, but there's a lot of people out there that don't know any different, but lately I've seen warnings on most decent websites about hybrids and 510 pins.

It's definitely something every vaper should be aware of.

I'll try to put some pictures up on here of the TFV4 510, but I'm using Tapatalk so might not be able to.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 
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danjaman

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 18, 2014
707
1,160
bristol, england.
And we are still referring to the smok tank yes?
Ok, that is the problem.
DO NOT USE THIS TANK ON A MECH!

Two things, the rubber seal will split. There is a small protruding ring machined into the top edge inside the airflow section, which is repeatedly compressed each time the coil section is changed. This rubber is very soft, for sealing reasons, yet too soft for it's purpose, and will split causing a dead short.

IF, the design has not changed from the VTC tanks, it will not take very long. Took less than one week for two different tanks I have here.

I machined new pins from stainless screws, used one of the tanks for a mold and melted hot glue for the seal. Which also keeps the pin from touching the inside wall of the threads.

EDIT: I also used a guitar pick, ground just the size of the new pin head, and pin itself, to separate or insulate the pin from grounding against the bottom of the airflow section.

I traded that tank for another tank with the same issue, so I'll be doing this again. Right now I don't trust that VTC tank so it's collecting dust.

What is so difficult in adding a PET seal on these, much like any RDA. The pin should NEVER move for ANY reason. We learned this years ago, and it's still being done. Amazing.
http://imgur.com/TRclo8f
http://imgur.com/4NiPRjY
http://imgur.com/rDHPhb3
http://imgur.com/VWiR7Y6

Sorry for the quality, it's the best I could do with my phone.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 

Staticoco

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Sep 29, 2015
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It was the TFV4 I was referring to, it's the first and only tank I own that's made by Smok.

I'm always careful on which tanks and RDA's I put on my SMPL, but there's a lot of people out there that don't know any different, but lately I've seen warnings on most decent websites about hybrids and 510 pins.

It's definitely something every vaper should be aware of.

I'll try to put some pictures up on here of the TFV4 510, but I'm using Tapatalk so might not be able to.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
great
 

Staticoco

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Sep 29, 2015
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Staticoco

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Sep 29, 2015
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danjaman

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 18, 2014
707
1,160
bristol, england.
hello everybody. i need some help here. i am still new to vaping. i am currently looking for best favour tank . so far i'm using Sigeilei 150W TC mod and got my smok tfv4 tank. i dont really like the tfv4 tank. esp when i build the rba. its so troublesome. the favour of the rba for smok tfv4 is not as strong. i dunno whats going on with it. sometimes i can even taste dry hits. The tank is like a V8 engine. eat too much oil. follow by heavy maintenance. the bottom of the tank is so hot esp when you use a tri coil or quad coil. but for the rba is not hot. just that the favour is not there. i cant taste much.

i Heard those reviews saying uwell crown, billow V2, lemo V2 is good for favouring.
anyone here have any comments that can help me on choosing a tank which suits me well. just for the strong favour. NOTE: not going to use a OCC. just RBA.
I've heard the cthulhu v1, cthulhu v2, youde goblin and goblin mini, and youde zephyrus are the absolute best flavour RTA's you can get.

Other than that, you would need to look into getting a "flavour chaser" RDA.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 

mudmanc4

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Thanks for the pics.
It appears they have made some changes to the pin. Much larger than prior.
However, looking at how far off center the pin is, without seeing it myself, it appears we'll still have a few issues.

All it will take is for one, the pin to be pushed to the side a fraction, and dead short here we are. Which on the xCube itself, so long as the chip doesn't fail to detect the short, it's all good. On a mech, complete meltdown very easily.

Now this picture could be a bit skewed due to perception, yet considering it's already shorted, I doubt it.
rDHPhb3.jpg


Just amazes me, how we can engineer such devices, yet fail, in the utmost meaningful and simply obvious failure points there can be.
I say this knowing well there are hundreds of possible failure points, however this pin issue is escaping me. The end user has the most handling here, the pin takes the brunt of the beating, to say, it gets torked a lot, each time it's screwed on or off.
Not to mention without this pin performing flawlessly, everything before it is rendered completely meaningless, useless, and even dangerous.
Forget about temperature control accuracy, with a shifting pin nothing can be counted on.

Severely disappointed in Smok for overlooking this vital detail. Or it could be said, not overlooked, simply looked past. because you'd sincerely have to be incapable, of manufacturing a device such as this, or give a blithering who cares.

harsh? No. Reality.

Another observation, the pin appears to have scorch marks, where your earlier pic does not. Now this could be simply dirty juice, but already? How could this be arcing from the main pin to the tank pin, not that much amperage I would think. Does it wipe off? Or is the pin etched?
 
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danjaman

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 18, 2014
707
1,160
bristol, england.
Thanks for the pics.
It appears they have made some changes to the pin. Much larger than prior.
However, looking at how far off center the pin is, without seeing it myself, it appears we'll still have a few issues.

All it will take is for one, the pin to be pushed to the side a fraction, and dead short here we are. Which on the xCube itself, so long as the chip doesn't fail to detect the short, it's all good. On a mech, complete meltdown very easily.

Now this picture could be a bit skewed due to perception, yet considering it's already shorted, I doubt it.
rDHPhb3.jpg


Just amazes me, how we can engineer such devices, yet fail, in the utmost meaningful and simply obvious failure points there can be.
I say this knowing well there are hundreds of possible failure points, however this pin issue is escaping me. The end user has the most handling here, the pin takes the brunt of the beating, to say, it gets torked a lot, each time it's screwed on or off.
Not to mention without this pin performing flawlessly, everything before it is rendered completely meaningless, useless, and even dangerous.
Forget about temperature control accuracy, with a shifting pin nothing can be counted on.

Severely disappointed in Smok for overlooking this vital detail. Or it could be said, not overlooked, simply looked past. because you'd sincerely have to be incapable, of manufacturing a device such as this, or give a blithering who cares.

harsh? No. Reality.

Another observation, the pin appears to have scorch marks, where your earlier pic does not. Now this could be simply dirty juice, but already? How could this be arcing from the main pin to the tank pin, not that much amperage I would think. Does it wipe off? Or is the pin etched?
The pin is still a bit off centre after I fiddled with it, there's barely even a gap all the way around the pin WITHOUT it being off centre.

The marks on the bottom of the pin were already there when I received it.
It looks as if it has been screwed down really tightly by someone testing it, and worn off some of the coating on the pin.
And it appears that's what damaged the pin's insulator too.
At least, the insulator seems damaged from the pin pressing too hard against it.

I think my damage might be a one off, I've not heard of anyone else's being faulty.
But I'm nit picky, and notice the slightest problems, like the chrome plated plate on the top of the Xcube 2 being screwed down so hard that it's BENT over the fire bar and causing the bar to stick and misfire.
And a loose magnet on the battery door, and don't even get me started on the useless Android app...

But don't get me wrong, I appreciate that I paid NOTHING for this kit, and that it doesn't cost a lot to begin with anyway, so there's bound to be a few small issues.

I love my cloud machine, warts 'n all!
And I really appreciate and thank SmokeyJoe and Smoktech greatly!

But seriously, SMOK REALLY REALLY NEEDS TO FIX THE ANDROID APP. I'VE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WITH IT SINCE YESTERDAY.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 

-MC-

Full Member
Sep 10, 2015
49
53
@xkid96x or @-MC-
Would you be kind enough to snap a pic of the center pin on the bottom of the tank?

Curious to see if they've addressed the design flaw in other tanks.

here is center pin snapshot, don't have problem for the contact.. but the moment i turn it up side down it leak....
 

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