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I just bought one from Discountvapers.com. He has the version 2 with the adjustable pin. I got mine yesterday and so far I love it. Here is a link to the Smok Magneto on their website.
Smoktech Magneto - Stainless Steel
Not impressed...got a new version without the spider on the bottom from 101Vape. My impressions
1. Seems to have more voltage drop when compared to my brass m16, eh pro ea clone, and sigelei 8w with same atomizer and battery
2. Realized the beauty ring/switch is aluminum don't know long that will last with lock ring use
3. Threads rough so I cleaned and sanded with 1000/2000 grit sand paper
4. No spider logo
5. Overall finish was rough....had to sand, polish, and clean everything
So this needed some definite work to get to my liking, but the voltage drop is more than I would like. I'll adjust my coil resistance to account for the voltage drop, but not my fave mod.
1. Seems to have more voltage drop when compared to my brass m16, eh pro ea clone, and sigelei 8w with same atomizer and battery
2. Realized the beauty ring/switch is aluminum don't know long that will last with lock ring use
3. Threads rough so I cleaned and sanded with 1000/2000 grit sand paper
4. No spider logo
5. Overall finish was rough....had to sand, polish, and clean everything
So this needed some definite work to get to my liking, but the voltage drop is more than I would like. I'll adjust my coil resistance to account for the voltage drop, but not my fave mod.
Sounds to me that you got a clone. Everybody I have talked to says the threads are buttery smooth, including mine. I have never seen a "beauty ring" on any of them. The real Magneto's I have seen have the spider on the bottom, even if it didn't have the Smok logo. Without seeing your device, I would say that you probably ended up with a clone.
After a day with the Smok Magneto I arrived at the following:
The bottom button was rough, noisy, and sticky from the start. I was told to tighten the locking ring in the button section, and that helped for a bit, but not for long. It got rough and sticky again and I got misfires.
I was advised to use Noalox on the button, so I went to Home Depot and got some. I put it on the friction areas of the button with a Q-tip after taking that apart, and the threads of the tubes and cap.
It did not help at all with the button. It was still sticky, and misfired too often for my liking in a new mech. The threading on the center tube is not up to snuff either, loose and imprecise. I don't like the button on the Magneto at all. I've gone back to my Sigelei 24, which I was having button issues with from time to time, but not as bad as with the Magneto.
For all the online hype about this mech, and it's initial popularity, I cannot see it justified in the product, and will probably just put it on craigslist for what I paid for it. Probably someone will care more about the spider on the button, the 1939 on it and the hype about it than I do. I just want a mech that works right. They could have done a much better job on the button.
That the button uses magnets is no substitute for good machining and tolerances, both of which I find lacking in the Magneto. The button locking ring I find to be of little utility. I can sit my Sigelei 24 down without that and it stands there just fine, which is nice. The Magneto, while you can sit it down with an RBA on it and not have it fire, is still unstable and will fall over quite easily, rocking around on it's magnetic button, unless you use the locking ring... every vape you take. Too much bother for me.
I don't have to do that with my Sigelei 24, I can just set it down and it stands there just fine, and it comes with a collar and D-ring I can use in my car with a lanyard to vape on the go. When driving a stick shift that's nice.
I'm sure there are some who are happy with the Magneto, but it's just not for me. I don't like the button at all. It's sticky and rough, misfires, and I don't like it.
The bottom button was rough, noisy, and sticky from the start. I was told to tighten the locking ring in the button section, and that helped for a bit, but not for long. It got rough and sticky again and I got misfires.
I was advised to use Noalox on the button, so I went to Home Depot and got some. I put it on the friction areas of the button with a Q-tip after taking that apart, and the threads of the tubes and cap.
It did not help at all with the button. It was still sticky, and misfired too often for my liking in a new mech. The threading on the center tube is not up to snuff either, loose and imprecise. I don't like the button on the Magneto at all. I've gone back to my Sigelei 24, which I was having button issues with from time to time, but not as bad as with the Magneto.
For all the online hype about this mech, and it's initial popularity, I cannot see it justified in the product, and will probably just put it on craigslist for what I paid for it. Probably someone will care more about the spider on the button, the 1939 on it and the hype about it than I do. I just want a mech that works right. They could have done a much better job on the button.
That the button uses magnets is no substitute for good machining and tolerances, both of which I find lacking in the Magneto. The button locking ring I find to be of little utility. I can sit my Sigelei 24 down without that and it stands there just fine, which is nice. The Magneto, while you can sit it down with an RBA on it and not have it fire, is still unstable and will fall over quite easily, rocking around on it's magnetic button, unless you use the locking ring... every vape you take. Too much bother for me.
I don't have to do that with my Sigelei 24, I can just set it down and it stands there just fine, and it comes with a collar and D-ring I can use in my car with a lanyard to vape on the go. When driving a stick shift that's nice.
I'm sure there are some who are happy with the Magneto, but it's just not for me. I don't like the button at all. It's sticky and rough, misfires, and I don't like it.
Yea this definitely needed a lot of finish work on my end, not exactly what I would consider a $40-$50 mod. I have $20 mods that are much nicer than the Magneto, the Brass M16 blows this thing out the water in every sense for $17.
I did find that backing out the bottom brass contact 1 turn made a better contact and now it fires much better.
The machining on this felt like they pulled it from the lathes or CNC and then didn't bother finishing the threads or edges. The threads were sharp and a little bit coarse.
The switch was okay, but I polished all the internals and scrubbed everything down with soap and water. Took everything apart and basically finished the job they should have done.
The Switch assembly itself on the bottom has divits on it and I found that to be aluminum. I started to sand it down and noticed a copper patina underneath. That doesn't happen on any other part of the Magneto. I took 320 grit paper and sanded the whole mod down since there were nicks and scratches from the factory.
As of now I have improved the voltage drop slightly, it works well, but NOT out of the box. I do NOT recommend this to anyone that does not like to tinker with their mods. If you like to tinker you can get this to perform solidly, but for the price you shouldn't have to do as much work as I did.
So far EHPRO seems to have the highest quality clones I have seen. The grand vapor clones are also VERY nice for the price.
I did find that backing out the bottom brass contact 1 turn made a better contact and now it fires much better.
The machining on this felt like they pulled it from the lathes or CNC and then didn't bother finishing the threads or edges. The threads were sharp and a little bit coarse.
The switch was okay, but I polished all the internals and scrubbed everything down with soap and water. Took everything apart and basically finished the job they should have done.
The Switch assembly itself on the bottom has divits on it and I found that to be aluminum. I started to sand it down and noticed a copper patina underneath. That doesn't happen on any other part of the Magneto. I took 320 grit paper and sanded the whole mod down since there were nicks and scratches from the factory.
As of now I have improved the voltage drop slightly, it works well, but NOT out of the box. I do NOT recommend this to anyone that does not like to tinker with their mods. If you like to tinker you can get this to perform solidly, but for the price you shouldn't have to do as much work as I did.
So far EHPRO seems to have the highest quality clones I have seen. The grand vapor clones are also VERY nice for the price.
I found this review to be just great, and got me over my questions about getting this wonderful mechanical. I think it's a winner. Good luck and best to you!
I got one of the first version magnetos, I love mine! needed a bit of work to clean up the contacts but it works as intended.
I'm really wanting one of these. I just got my RSST, but all I have is a Vamo V2, an eVic, and 2 eGo batts left. So with 2 regulated mods and 2 throw away batts I don't get to really go sub ohm like I want. Only problem is that I'm super broke... I may sell or trade the eVic for around $70 to get this. Any other suggestions for a mech in the $40-$70 price range? If I can get a bit lower for something as adequate, I'd rather do that cause I'd have to resell my eVic for $5 more than I got it for and I just don't want to do that. It's below retail but all the same, it just makes me feel a bit shady selling used for even a small profit...
So quick update, my MAIN gripe with the magneto was the voltage drop/switch assembly. I have been tweaking this thing ever since and have finally gotten the unit to fire the way I like. I sanded and polished the brass contacts and added Noalox to the contacts and switch assembly after a thorough cleaning. That did help a bit, but I noticed that the magnets are really strong and the throw was a little long. I think due to the long throw and strong magnet resistance I was short stroking the switch, meaning I wasn't always getting a full contact pressure between the 2 brass contacts.
What I did to fix this was sand and polish both contacts, this helped to smooth out the contacting areas ensuring I had a nice flat contact area which helps increase the contact surface area. If you have a rough contact or if there are ridges then you are only making contact at those ridge points.
I also added an o-ring underneath the bottom brass contact and adjusted the contact for a shorter throw. I only screwed the bottom brass contact 2-2.5 turns instead of screwing in all the way. This raised the contact up and closer to the upper contact. Now after doing this my voltage drop compared to the other mods seem to be similar and it's much easier to actuate the switch with my pinky. No more short stroking and no more misfires. I think the perceived voltage drop issues were a result of the long throw and the strong magnet resistance. I think I'm going to relegate this to my daily pocket beater.
I still think these issues need to be addressed to be considered a good value for the money, but I was able to finally clean up this mod and get it performing well.
The oring I used was purchased from healthcabin. It's the #9 is inner replacement O-Ring for Colored Tip for CE4 & CE5 Clearomizer.O-Ring measures about 9mm outside diameter and about 7mm on the inner diameter. Black color.
What I did to fix this was sand and polish both contacts, this helped to smooth out the contacting areas ensuring I had a nice flat contact area which helps increase the contact surface area. If you have a rough contact or if there are ridges then you are only making contact at those ridge points.
I also added an o-ring underneath the bottom brass contact and adjusted the contact for a shorter throw. I only screwed the bottom brass contact 2-2.5 turns instead of screwing in all the way. This raised the contact up and closer to the upper contact. Now after doing this my voltage drop compared to the other mods seem to be similar and it's much easier to actuate the switch with my pinky. No more short stroking and no more misfires. I think the perceived voltage drop issues were a result of the long throw and the strong magnet resistance. I think I'm going to relegate this to my daily pocket beater.
I still think these issues need to be addressed to be considered a good value for the money, but I was able to finally clean up this mod and get it performing well.
The oring I used was purchased from healthcabin. It's the #9 is inner replacement O-Ring for Colored Tip for CE4 & CE5 Clearomizer.O-Ring measures about 9mm outside diameter and about 7mm on the inner diameter. Black color.
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I have the V2 and if you use flat top batteries it will telescope tighter and have a more solid feel to it. I personally use Sony US18650VTC3 batteries and they have some of the least voltage drop out there.
So I have just got an order of magnetos, because my original one was amazing. No roughness, smooth button, great throughput it is just awesome. Not so with the shipment I just got. All of the buttons have a "rough" feeling when depressing them, the ne top caps make it a good 1/2 centimeter taller, if not a full centimeter, and the battery extension tubes do not fit in as tight. On top the lock rings also have a very "rough" feeling to them. All in all, I am waaay more impressed with my version 1 than the version 2. I love my version one. I may take some buffing material and smooth out the button, hopefully that will make them at least satisfactory.
I have one sitting around that I never use anymore. It is the regular magneto without the "SMOK" logo. Hit me up if you wanna buy.
The NZONICV3 that I have is a magnetic switch as well.. I gotta say the magneto is smoother.
Mine is the V2 and does not have the "smok" on it but does have the adjustable pin. IMO, it is just so simple and it works great. Just throw a battery in and whichever tank you want. Works very well with my Kanger's and Nautilus tanks.
This was my first mech and have had no issues with it. Mag switch works great and the looking ring is reverse thread. The only thing i have found with it is that some tanks that pull air from the bottom 510 connection (ie. ProTanks, I-Clears, etc..) can not be screwed down all the way as it will sometimes shut off all airflow. Def works better with RDA's or RBA's such as the Kayfuns/Russians. Overall, very durable and feels solid.I would love to hear a more experienced mech vaper's review...As much as I love this thing, if someone else deems it to be a piece o crap that means I just have much much more to look forward to with my next mech
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