I have taken it off the EA and will file it down tomorrow. I don't think it's done any actual damage that would affect performance but I don't want to take any chances and it get any worse.
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I have taken it off the EA and will file it down tomorrow. I don't think it's done any actual damage that would affect performance but I don't want to take any chances and it get any worse.
from the picture it does look awfully sharp.
good point, imma borrow it and use it as a note in my little co-op updates if you don't mind, @donnah.
good point, imma borrow it and use it as a note in my little co-op updates if you don't mind, @donnah.
Good thing the EA has quite a long positive post. You can take a hair off of it to get it nice and dimple free without worry.
i was wondering if you were able to do the pulse oxidize method using the rsst on a regulated mod because of the insulater in the rsst
No, I don't think that insulator matters in this case. I tried doing it with a Vamo/ZMax and kept getting low load errors. A fully oxidized mesh will solve this problem though.
The post post that we're talking about screws down into the atty and you're supposed to stop it just when it comes out the bottom. But it's sharp, like they used a regular wood screw. Filing it down just a hair so it won't be sharp shouldn't take enough length off of it to matter. I've got mine taken apart and the pos post out and am going to take it to Lowes today to see if I can find a washer and spring to fit my did so maybe I won't have to use that little nut to tighten my top wire down. I'm going to attempt to "rsst" it. I'm also going to see if I can find another flat bottomed screw like the rsst uses that isn't sharp.
Makes sense. Thanks!
I just opened mine up. Dang! Pieces on top look a lot smaller than it looks in the vids! I'm skerred.
Wish me luck on my first build.
Makes sense. Thanks!
I just opened mine up. Dang! Pieces on top look a lot smaller than it looks in the vids! I'm skerred.
Wish me luck on my first build.
LOL... Good Luck!
So, pulse method on a Zmax = no good?
I assume that the unoxidized wick causes a resistance closer to 0?
Looking to order a RSST this coming week and trying to see if I need to get a torch while I am at it.
Also, from what I read here, I should order some 400 mesh and some 30 gauge kanthal to get to about 1.8? Anyone experience anything better on a sigelei Zmax v3?
Pat S.
sent from my note 2 with tapatalk 2
This would be a good set up on a Sig ZMax, or most any other vv or vw device. Generally, on these devices, I like anything above 1.2Ω.
Questions on mesh.
1. Since the rsst has a pp bottom, and I don't have a mech, can I just oxcidize the top part that touches the coil? Could this help wicking?
2. How long does mesh last before you have to toss it? Will it out last the coil? Can you clean it to reuse?
Pat S.
sent from my note 2 with tapatalk 2
1. Since the rsst has a pp bottom, and I don't have a mech, can I just oxcidize the top part that touches the coil? Could this help wicking?
2. How long does mesh last before you have to toss it? Will it out last the coil? Can you clean it to reuse?
Pat S.
sent from my note 2 with tapatalk 2
Unfreakin unbelievable!! It works and its awesome! This is cool stuff. Now I see what all the hype is on RBAs.
My coils aint the prettiest. But they work. A question or two.
I used 400 ss mesh with 32 g wire. 4/5 (I think
)It first tested at 1.9. After finished pulsing and fiddling, it was 2.4. Is this normal? Somewhere in there I move the wick a little closer to the top connection. Would this have done it?
Also, the main reason I didn't get RBAs sooner was the leaking. My wife is bed bound a lot and holding it vertical wouldn't work. It seems that most leave the fill plug out. I'm leaving it in and its working great so far. But as PB said, that plug is a PIA. Has anybody come up with something erode that would work as a plug? I'm heading to home depot later to see what I can find.
Thanks for all the great info folks!
without a mech, yes, you can just torch the top part. I have a mech and I go ahead and torch it anyway. How long does the mesh last? I don't know, I'm still using my same wicks after at least 2 months. After every couple or so tanks and when I want to change a flavor, I use a syringe and flush the tank several times. Then I do a dry burn, holding it upside down so the water and leftover juice wicks down the wick and is burned off. This burn also helps clean the coils as well as the wick. I'm always recoiling just for practice so my coils don't last very long LOL.. but I've heard of others who very rarely recoil.
to oxidize, I use a regular "wind resistant" lighter from walmart.
Thanks, just what I was looking for. I was thinking of just using a lighter, but wasnt sure if the torch was better. Going with the lighter approach first and if I like the rba world I'll invest in a small torch later on.
Pat S.
sent from my note 2 with tapatalk 2
not yet...
Considering their explosion in popularity, I'd imagine someone will.
However, due to their complexity, I don't imagine they will be cheap if/when they are made.
I agree with clippingwings, its going to be tough to make it with glass because of the bottom shape.
Someone suggested a glass version without a bottom and some o rings to seal, but not sure how that may work. I also like the fact that the bottom is covered, this ensures the wick will not short it out at the bottom.
Pat S.
sent from my note 2 with tapatalk 2
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