You have a short. Sometimes after you pulse it, you have to move the coil just a bit. After that, it should glow normally. I like to start fully unoxidized. It helps you to see the oxidizing process better.
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You have a short. Sometimes after you pulse it, you have to move the coil just a bit. After that, it should glow normally. I like to start fully unoxidized. It helps you to see the oxidizing process better.
Checking in again. So I used a corkscrew (after seeing the idea from a YouTube video) to marginally open up the air hole ever so slightly. Performance has definitely improved. Vapor production has increased and the flavor is still full. My plan is to slowly open up the air hole until I'm happy with it, which may take months. 
No idea on hole size but currently on the rsst (1 ohm 4 wrapped 28 with 400 mesh) with a stainless steel drip tip, Drawtube mod with sanded button with sanded center pin cap from a Natural in 18350 mode vaping Fire Cured tobacco by Sin City Vapors. Clone powered specs baby
No idea on hole size but currently on the rsst (1 ohm 4 wrapped 28 with 400 mesh) with a stainless steel drip tip, Drawtube mod with sanded button with sanded center pin cap from a Natural in 18350 mode vaping Fire Cured tobacco by Sin City Vapors. Clone powered specs baby
Hi guys,
Thought i'll share something i've done with my RSST.
Pulled out the insulator
View attachment 201898
inserted two 3mm silica wicks folded on themselves (3mm x 4) from below upwards. Coiled with 30awg A1. Very nice vapor and flavour. It has now become my favorite RBA
View attachment 201899 View attachment 201900 View attachment 201901 View attachment 201902
Wow! Thanks for the idea. tried it and works better than the mesh. Smoother and more vapor.
I thought I would take some macro photos of my RSST before I start trying to build my first coil.
First coil built. I do believe I've got one (or two?) too many wraps on there, and the rings aren't all making full contact with the mesh. Trying the pulse method on my China GG, the "legs" get red, and about 1/2 of the top and bottom coils. If I continue to pulse, I start to get a burnt metal smell and the firing button gets quite hot. The hot button is a known issue on this cheap mech so I'll wind up sanding the contacts. Also, I didn't realize the cut I made near the top of the wick was so sloppy until I took these macro shots. Yikes.
But I'm done for today.
But I'm done for today.
You have frayed edges on the mesh and the wick appears to be rolled inconsistently.
Too many voids in the mesh between the coils.
Shorts if the top and bottom wires light up only.
You might want to roll a solid one ... same diameter throughout. Then use the "Pulse Method" to oxidize, 2 seconds on, 2 seconds off, so the switch won't get too hot.
Looks like a 3/4 wrap with 28 ga, so that's all good if that's the way you like your vape around .8Ω.
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I wish that I had posted picks of my first few builds on here when I started. Probably wouldn't have taken me weeks to get it down. I still to this day get wicking issues from mesh from time to time. Feel like it is a heck of a lot better now that when I use mesh I go unoxidized. Just a quick fire to burn off the edges.
Thanks heaps for the feedback! I really REALLY appreciate that!
Lord willing and the creek don't rise, I'll give it another shot tonight.
Lord willing and the creek don't rise, I'll give it another shot tonight.
To get rid of that outside frayed edge, fold that edge over on itself about 1/8 inch. Good luck!
Hi guys,
Thought i'll share something i've done with my RSST.
Pulled out the insulator
View attachment 201898
inserted two 3mm silica wicks folded on themselves (3mm x 4) from below upwards. Coiled with 30awg A1. Very nice vapor and flavour. It has now become my favorite RBA
View attachment 201899 View attachment 201900 View attachment 201901 View attachment 201902
Question, how did you take the insulator out?
Will do. I'll give that a shot first and see what happens. I have a feeling I'll be making a whole new wick/coil. Part of my problem is that I was cutting the mesh with a pair of heavy duty shears first. Totally forgot about my wire cutters. D'oh!
That is 28 guage kanthal. Am I also correct in thinking that I need to decrease the wraps by at least one? If I'm going for a .8-1Ohm coil?
That is 28 guage kanthal. Am I also correct in thinking that I need to decrease the wraps by at least one? If I'm going for a .8-1Ohm coil?
No. You should be right around .8 with the 3/4 wrap you are using. You do have a multimeter or some other way of measuring your coils, right? 
Yep! I did have sense enough to get one of those before I got started with this project.
Sometimes I surprise even myself!
Sometimes I surprise even myself!
I am not sure if anyone has had this happen but feeling it out to see if so... I have a Smok Natural mod and got the RSST over the weekend. I cannot for the life of me get the RSST to thread down onto the Natural - about a 1/4 turn in it seizes up almost like it is cross threaded. I backed the telescopic center pin on the Natural down thinking maybe that was it (even though I knew it wasn't...), no go.
I moved the RSST to a ProVari - threads fine. I moved the RSST to a plain ole eGo battery - threads fine. My Nimbus v3 on the Natural - Threads fine. A plain ole Carto in a Carto Tank on the Natural - Threads fine.
Just so confused @___@
I moved the RSST to a ProVari - threads fine. I moved the RSST to a plain ole eGo battery - threads fine. My Nimbus v3 on the Natural - Threads fine. A plain ole Carto in a Carto Tank on the Natural - Threads fine.
Just so confused @___@
Sharp pair of scissors will do on the mesh ... cuts almost like paper.
Figure about .2Ω per wrap.
Thanks heaps! Right now I'm giving the Cobra clone RBA from gotvapes a shot. It came with an oxidized wick pre-installed. It's.....uhhh...not so great. Resistance is 1.8Ohms, and fires and produces a respectable amount of vapor, but the top cap is threaded and the air hole is not close enough to the wick. So the hits are wicked harsh.
No biggie. My main focus is the RSST anyway.
No biggie. My main focus is the RSST anyway.
Their wick and coil image looks like the first attempt of someone who only has a vague idea how it's done successfully.
For the cobra clone, just push up on the tank a bit to get the air hole and wick lined up. It doesnt take much. Just leave a gap on the bottom so the cap will tighten up in the right spot.
Also, for cutting ss mesh, just snip it with a pair of scissors where you want to start cutting and you can just tear it. it will tear in a straight line.
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