Smoktech Telescope Mod

[Plumes.91]

Contained- (to fourthrok) Forget the tank, where did you get that awesome drip tip and are there others like it??? awesome!

Fourthrok- I'm no expert on battery safety but wouldn't keeping the charge safety bag completely sealed be safer than leaving a gap? I know that fire needs air to survive so closing the bag may be safer than leaving a vent hole considering the charger doesn't necessarily need a flow of air to charge and work properly. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'd probably keep it sealed shut.

AudioNut- I looked NCM battery up on google and looked at a few of the pictures and there are no markings on the batteries I found. This would persuade me to believe that these NCM batteries may be unprotected. While the LT does have safety mechanisms within the device, it would still be a good idea to buy at least a pair of batteries (3 is best for safe cycling imo) from a reputable dealer. AW brand IMR batteries are a favorite here because they are protected Li-ion batteries that have the quick drain feature. Quick draining is important and good for us vaporers because the battery will output more power per vape hit. AW is a great brand for this. The lavatube may be protected but its important to note that protection circuits aren't perfect or divine and they can fail. Its safer than a mech mod but still not a great idea to continue using unprotected or unbranded no name batteries for the duration of your vaping. If you are unsure of your charger being able to charge your battery correctly, just use common sense. Put the battery into the charger and be sure to watch it carefully the first 2 or 3 charges. If the charger begins to hum or buzz, take the battery out and do not use that charger with that battery again. If the battery or charger begins to get hot, do not use that charger for that battery again. Its also a good idea to pick up a protection circuit for your mech mods, they are only 2 to 3 dollars and can save your face, literally.

enoryt- when using the kick with an 18350 battery, the telescoping mod will need to be in a mode large enough to fit both the 18350 and the kick module itself.. SO, if you like a very small size, you might enjoy using a small battery with low resistance cartomizers or atomizers rather than using a small battery plus the kick, since the kick will add size to the mod, many times making it as large as an 18650 mode/mod. lol. I know, I like small sized mods too. The kick does add length to any mod though. You could actually buy a bolt, 2 18650 extender rings, and use an 18650 battery with the kick all at once. Now thats a big mod lol. I do have a question for you. Why would you think you'd have to sand the inside of the tsm? What would the sanding do? Is this for conductivity? I don't think any of us are having much trouble with conductivity so far?

 

[fourthrok]

Contained- (to fourthrok) Forget the Tank, where did you get that awesome drip tip and are there others like it??? awesome!

The tip is a "Clarion" . I found it at My Vapor Store in the drip tip section.

Fourthrok- I'm no expert on battery safety but wouldn't keeping the charge safety bag completely sealed be safer than leaving a gap? I know that fire needs air to survive so closing the bag may be safer than leaving a vent hole considering the charger doesn't necessarily need a flow of air to charge and work properly. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'd probably keep it sealed shut.

The reason I leave a gap is because heat builds up in there. I only have the single charger that came with my LT at this point. And after 6 to 8 hours of charging, it gets pretty toasty in there. I made the mistake of charging one battery, then immediately putting in another battery, sealing the bag and charging the second battery right afterwards. It didn't go well. No catastrophes, but for awhile there I thought I'd killed that second battery. It's okay now. But now I leave some gap so it won't get overheated in the bag. I've heard that it can really do a number on a battery.

.......... If you are unsure of your charger being able to charge your battery correctly, just use common sense. Put the battery into the charger and be sure to watch it carefully the first 2 or 3 charges. If the charger begins to hum or buzz, take the battery out and do not use that charger with that battery again. If the battery or charger begins to get hot, do not use that charger for that battery again. Its also a good idea to pick up a protection circuit for your mech mods, they are only 2 to 3 dollars and can save your face, literally.

Where would I find a protection circuit to buy online? Got a link? I've got a couple of the batteries that came with the LT that aren't marked, too.

I do have a question for you. Why would you think you'd have to sand the inside of the tsm? What would the sanding do? Is this for conductivity? I don't think any of us are having much trouble with conductivity so far?

In some cases the threading on the telescope has been reported to be rough...even cutting a mark on batteries. I think that might have been the older version. I did not have that issue at all with mine. They seemed perfectly smooth, and none of my batteries have gotten "cut" or marked. I did put a very thin sheen of petroleum jelly on the threads so they wouldn't be so noisy when you screw the parts together, though. In the event you get one with sharper feeling threading, a fine sandpaper can smooth off the rough edges a bit and all will be fine.

 

[bubbajoe72]

IMR batteries are not protected but instead have a different chemical make up from the typical Li-on batteries that need the protection circuitry. The typical Li-on batteries are made up of Lithium cobalt and need the protection circuitry to decrease the risk of thermal runaway. IMR batteries are made up of Lithium Manganese and due to the chemical makeup, are less prone to thermal runaway and can handle higher discharge rates (like for VV voltage devices like the Provari or Kicked devices).

AW batteries are considered the better batteries and the chemical makeup can be determined by their color:
- Red: Li-on IMR batteries, LiMn, unprotected but due to chemical makeup and inherent safety preferred for variable voltage devices (caution should still be exercised)
- Blue: Li-on (specifically LiCo), protected batteries, not recommended for variable voltage devices
- Black: Li-on (specifically LiCo), unprotected batteries, not recommended for any vaping device

For the question about a Kicked Telescope, I'm typically getting around 4 hours of constant vaping with an 18500 (1100 mah) battery. Without the Kick, I was getting around 5-6 hours. I think the main issue is that the Kick has a cutoff voltage of 3.5V under load. With a 18350, I would probably expect maybe around 2-3 hours Kicked.

 

[bubbajoe72]

In some cases the threading on the telescope has been reported to be rough...even cutting a mark on batteries. I think that might have been the older version. I did not have that issue at all with mine. They seemed perfectly smooth, and none of my batteries have gotten "cut" or marked. I did put a very thin sheen of petroleum jelly on the threads so they wouldn't be so noisy when you screw the parts together, though. In the event you get one with sharper feeling threading, a fine sandpaper can smooth off the rough edges a bit and all will be fine.

On my Telescope, it's not the threads that are rough but the inside of the safety holes that could stand some sandpaper. Once centered within the top tube, it's not the treads that are in contact with the battery but the inside of the top tube.

 

[Plumes.91]

I just received my telescope in the mail! this thing is great! I love it so far and I'm loving the 1.5 ohm smoktech cartos i got with it, with DK-Tab. This DK-tab is like RY4 but nuttier. Delicious. Loving this thing at 18350 and 18650. Trying to get all of my batteries charged with the coming hurricane. AHH! The lights are a-flickering! I hope we don't end up losing power but the flickering lights is a tell-tale sign we may. We do have a generator but I'm worried about charging my batteries by gas lol.

 

[enoryt]

Hey Plumes.91, I was under the impression you had to sand specifically the interior to make sure you have a good connection for the ground wire stickin out of the kick mod. Yeah, the telescope has been fun though, just went to my local shop and picked up some 1.8 ohm boge cartos and performance of the mod has been much better. I'm still looking to kick though, I want the option of using all my tanks!

 

[enoryt]

IMR batteries are not protected but instead have a different chemical make up from the typical Li-on batteries that need the protection circuitry. The typical Li-on batteries are made up of Lithium cobalt and need the protection circuitry to decrease the risk of thermal runaway. IMR batteries are made up of Lithium Manganese and due to the chemical makeup, are less prone to thermal runaway and can handle higher discharge rates (like for VV voltage devices like the Provari or Kicked devices).

AW batteries are considered the better batteries and the chemical makeup can be determined by their color:
- Red: Li-on IMR batteries, LiMn, unprotected but due to chemical makeup and inherent safety preferred for variable voltage devices (caution should still be exercised)
- Blue: Li-on (specifically LiCo), protected batteries, not recommended for variable voltage devices
- Black: Li-on (specifically LiCo), unprotected batteries, not recommended for any vaping device

For the question about a Kicked Telescope, I'm typically getting around 4 hours of constant vaping with an 18500 (1100 mah) battery. Without the Kick, I was getting around 5-6 hours. I think the main issue is that the Kick has a cutoff voltage of 3.5V under load. With a 18350, I would probably expect maybe around 2-3 hours Kicked.

Thank you! Just what I was looking for!!

 

[bubbajoe72]

Hey Plumes.91, I was under the impression you had to sand specifically the interior to make sure you have a good connection for the ground wire stickin out of the kick mod. Yeah, the telescope has been fun though, just went to my local shop and picked up some 1.8 ohm boge cartos and performance of the mod has been much better. I'm still looking to kick though, I want the option of using all my tanks!

I may sand due to the rough spots and the battery scratches but I just stuck my Kick in and didn't bother to sand and it's working fine. I do have a SS Telescope - I don't know if the chrome plated ones need the sanding due to the chrome plating.

 

[Plumes.91]

yeah the "chrome plated" telescopes may need a sanding up by where the kick's little kickstand goes. I don't really know what they use to chrome plate the TSM but some chrome paints are non-metalic in nature obviously so you may need to rub that off for the kick to touch metal. The stainless steel version works because its steel. I loveeee the SS i have its great so far. feels very sturdy. I did notice someone had sanded the vent holes and around the end of the threads, maybe the factory sands them by hand since the bad reviews came out. Whatever. I think thats a great thing to have implemented and I thank smoktech or madvapes for sanding the burrs for me. I can already tell this things gonna get a good review from me in a few days.. I thought I wouldn't like the pinky button but its so easy to push it puts zero strain on my pinky. Awesome mod so far.

 

[bubbajoe72]

The only problem I have with my Telescope is that even with the battery in, the threads between the top tube and bottom tube are still "loose". It's a minor annoyance but I wish I could find something like teflon tape that was electrically conductive but still fill the gaps. I've tried noalox but it still wiggles a bit - maybe I'll try a combination of noalox and teflon.

 

[Striker911]

Mine moves a lot more the shorter the battery gets (18350). Its just strange when you go to vape and it moves like its about to break in half.

 

[Plumes.91]

weird, mine doesn't move at all really when in 18350 mode, but when in 18650 it wiggles a little, only when I'm pushing against the top half. But I wanted to talk a little about my worries that the bottom button would feel awkward for my pinky. I find that in 18650 mode, its very comfortable to use my right ring finger to push the button up. BUT, with my tsm in 18360 mode, I actally rest the button on my pinky and push the top of the device down with my thumb and that is very comfortable! so if your turned off by the bottom firing button, don''t be, this is awesome. Loving it so far.

One thing to note is that this mod will roll. It will roll off of a desk or a flat surface because it doesn't have a side mounted button. So I've been having to remember to be careful to not set it down anywhere where it could possibly have a bad tumble to the hardwood floor. I'm loving the DK-Tab that I've got loaded into a 1.5 carto right now though and the thing looks great. I'm about to clean my room and find a spot to set up all of my mods. Pix are coming soon too so that will be cool. The mod looks SLICK.

 

[Striker911]

Just put in my order for the replacement. Went SS on this one. I like shopping at MV but they dont tell you when they give you reward points so I had no idea what to do until I went to ask if they got the defective one. Then I noticed almost a thousand points on my account. 38 of them are on hold. Wonder why. Would have almost covered the entire order if they where not put on hold. Oh well. Will buy from again some day.

 

[bubbajoe72]

Another way to hold it if your pinky gets tired after hours of constant vaping is to rest the button in your palm and if your fingers are long enough, rest it on the top of the bottom tube and just squeeze your fingers a bit to push the button in. It's less awkward with smaller batteries but it can be done with an 18650/kicked-18500 in there as well.

 

[Plumes.91]

haha my fingers probably aren't long enough in 18650 mode. but in 18650 you can easily push the button in by resting it on your pinky or ring finger and pushing your thumb down on the top of the device, down onto the lip, so, thats cool. ONE thing I did want to mention was that this thing does NOT fit all cartos made for the eGo devices. It doesn't. My madvapes eGo tank cartomizer (its not a tank, its like a big fat super clearomizer made to fit the recessed eGo threading.. Its too fat for the tsm. unbelievable.

I may buy another one of these mods, maybe the gunmetal version. I like it a lot and I'd like to see more lined up with each other. The more chrome or stainless steel in 1 spot, the shiner your collection is. lol

Now I wish madvapes carried rebuildable atomizers because I'd like to get a new mod and a couple of those all in 1 go and I can't. I'm not really interested in the nova tanks. Can you buy kanthal and rewick a vivi nova tank or do you buy replaceable heads?

 

[Audionut02]

Thanks to all who responded with the battery issues I am having. Very helpful. I am going to start looking for 4 IMR reds at 18650 and grab 2 more at 18350. The ones I have been using are the IMR 18350 800mah (blue).

On a side note and more to the thread. I am truly loving this little guy in 18350 with a Smoktech 3.5 Stubby attached. Looks super cool although a little light on the vaper and TH. To be expected though.

 

[bubbajoe72]

You can do either with a Vivi Nova tank. They're designed for replaceable heads but there's a tutorial in the RBA subforum on how to re-coil/re-wick a Vivi Nova - http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ystems/295410-vivi-nova-rebuild-tutorial.html.

Discount Vapers has a nice selection of RBA clones and they also sell the chrome Telescope but not the gun metal/black chrome version.

 

[Striker911]

Mine moved a lot in short mode. Maybe the SS will be diff. Playing the waiting game and will update once it gets here.


For the record. I never had an issue with the button. I always adjust the tube so the button has to move the entire distance and it was really easy.

 

[fourthrok]

The only problem I have with my Telescope is that even with the battery in, the threads between the top tube and bottom tube are still "loose". It's a minor annoyance but I wish I could find something like teflon tape that was electrically conductive but still fill the gaps. I've tried noalox but it still wiggles a bit - maybe I'll try a combination of noalox and teflon.

That's odd. I got my telescope from Liberty Flights. The vent holes didn't need sanding, and were smooth without any sign they'd been sanded by the vendor. Also it's a solid as a rock with any battery in it...no wiggle at all. Whether 18650 or 18350 (those are the only two I have atm). Once the battery is in there and the tube screwed together...it's like it was all one piece except for the ridge between top and bottom.

I vary how I hold the telescope to push the button. Sometimes with my pinky...sometimes with my palm and sometimes with my ring finger. Sometimes by just sort of holding it in my fist and squeezing. It's quite intuitive, really. Surprised me.

 

[Plumes.91]

yeah i like the springy long distance button too so I make sure its as long as possible haha. thanks bubbajoe, I didn't know for sure whether or not u could change the coil in a vivi. cool. good to know. I think my chrome wiggled more before I hit it with the petroleum jelly. Maybe you could try more lube in the threads? idk though. Audionut, I use the red 18650 I got from apollo with my Vtube. I think its a no name unprotected though I'm not sure of that. I also have a trustfire 18650 flame (the red gold and black trustfire you'll see on madvapes site a lot) I don't like it as much as whatever the red 18650 from apollo. I think the red 18650 is protected, I've seen people say it was, but I've also heard it might not be. Either way, its the best 18650 I own. Powerful all the way to the end. I just got a blue 18350 or whatever from madvapes and so far so good. I guess I just don't really like the trustfire flames, as many will agree with.