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Well this one was not tested to any limits. It just sucks. No matter how many people say yours is good its not going to fix mine. But I have high hopes that the new switch will 
. Think im going to post a video of it once I get time. Its really strange how it starts firing on its own and when I tighten the tube it stops firing. So its tight with little switch actuation and when I dont want to use it the lock has to be on. Thats the only way its working now. Like I was saying. I wish I could see inside to see what going on.
. Think im going to post a video of it once I get time. Its really strange how it starts firing on its own and when I tighten the tube it stops firing. So its tight with little switch actuation and when I dont want to use it the lock has to be on. Thats the only way its working now. Like I was saying. I wish I could see inside to see what going on.
You are not removing the white plastic piece from the spring are you? The spring is there to only act as a tensioner on the battery, not as a electrical contact as most mods do. The plastic piece is an insulator and is necessary for proper function.Well this one was not tested to any limits. It just sucks. No matter how many people say yours is good its not going to fix mine. But I have high hopes that the new switch will
Curious about this from post #80 in this thread....
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No its on. I tested that out on the first pv though and it didnt make a diff if the plastic was on or off. Worked the same no matter what. But I did try it to see if it would help.
Is all of the protective coating on the battery in tact so there is no way it can come in contact with the telescope? etc.no physical wear on the battery. I do know some of the telescopes had manufacturing defects with metal burs remaining where the vent holes were drilled which can scratch and wear the coating off the batteries.
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At that moment I was using a Panasonic. They are pretty well open at the bottom, and I think the lip of the switch was the cause. That lip is causing issues with other batteries fitting cause some wont even fire at all. The MNKE battery fits good but is down on power and making the button for the switch hot.
Out of 10 batteries that worked fine with the gun metal Telescope only 3 work correctly with the SS one. AW IMR 18490 x2 and Efest 18650 x1.
No ultrafires work no matter the size, no MNKE's, and no Panasonic's. All batteries are in like new condition.
I just got my SS Telescope in yesterday and have been using it almost exclusively since. I've tried it successfully with an 18350, 18500, two rcr123a batts for 6 volts, and two 16340 batts for 7.4 volts. I've settled on my usual 6 volt setup for it and it's been working great. The bottom button is very smooth and easy to operate. The connector is perfectly even on this, not crooked at all. It has four vent holes on the top section and two on the bottom section and all are evenly spaced.
I'm glad I got the SS Telescope and it's up there on my list for best value for the buck.
Here it is with a handblown Phiniac:
And here, next to a Puresmoker Legacy:
I'm glad I got the SS Telescope and it's up there on my list for best value for the buck.
Here it is with a handblown Phiniac:
And here, next to a Puresmoker Legacy:
I also bought a ss smoktech telescope as my first mod and it's fantastic! I got mine from electronicstix and I've had no problems with it. At 55 usd, it's more expensive than in the other sites but at least, I've had no problems with it.
And does any of you know how to convert it to a full mechanical? I saw a video of it in you tube but he didn't do it step by step.
Er...are you on the right thread? This one is about the Smok Telescope mod....
Almost a week in now and I've been using the SS Telescope A LOT since I got it. No performance issues at all. The bottom button is very user friendly but it's stiff enough that I don't have to ever lock it for fear of it getting bumped and firing off in the car seat or on my desk. It's definitely one of my daily mods and I am thinking about getting a second one now. But I'll try to hold out for when they offer the new designed one in the US. Looks like stainless steel and it has a thicker button with the same dimples design as in the top cap: http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...3x403/579163_508648685826274_1358233776_n.jpg
Nothing since the battery is protected. I would choose the Pany over the AW IMR but for flat out power I like the MNKE. The MNKE puts out a peak of 30 watts on a mechanical PV and a constant 20 watts. Try that on a nice working .6-.8 ohm coil and your clouding the room.
. I cant use the telescope with anything but a Genesis atomizer. If the ohms are 1.2 or more I put the atty on the vv Gripper with electronics to dial it in. Otherwise I just vape my face off and try to keep the wick wet.
Got my new switch in today. I can now use 8 of the 10 batteries the original one used. Much better then just 3 out of 10. Most imp part is that its not firing on its own anymore. Whats funny is the only two batteries that wont work are the only ones I bought from the same place as the telescope. I give up trying to figure out this mystery. Tried screwing it down all the way and pushing the switch really hard and it made spots in the batteries top and bottom so they should work. Maybe its now some limit in the batteries safety
Both batteries are ultra fire and the only ultra fires I ever bought thankfully. One 18500 and one 18350. Seems like a shame that I cant use them since they are both like new. Oh well.
Both batteries are ultra fire and the only ultra fires I ever bought thankfully. One 18500 and one 18350. Seems like a shame that I cant use them since they are both like new. Oh well.
Who makes that, and who will be carrying it? Where did you get that picture? PM me if it's better to handle that way. Since I got my telescope I'm hardly using anything else. I'm curious about this one you posted about for sure!
It's something I saw on Facebook: Timeline Photos | Facebook
I haven't seen that design at any of the US vendor sites.
There's another Telescope I see that has a GG-like button? http://koti.mbnet.fi/sib77/jpg/guva.jpg
Just google some ecigarette telescope terms and you'll find some goodies.
He has some interesting mods and a couple of telescope flavors:
Elite v2 : Telescopic Full Mech Mod | Facebook
BRASS MORTAR MOD | Facebook
Elite v2 : Telescopic Full Mech Mod | Facebook
BRASS MORTAR MOD | Facebook
Got my new switch in today. I can now use 8 of the 10 batteries the original one used. Much better then just 3 out of 10. Most imp part is that its not firing on its own anymore. Whats funny is the only two batteries that wont work are the only ones I bought from the same place as the telescope. I give up trying to figure out this mystery. Tried screwing it down all the way and pushing the switch really hard and it made spots in the batteries top and bottom so they should work. Maybe its now some limit in the batteries safety
Both batteries are ultra fire and the only ultra fires I ever bought thankfully. One 18500 and one 18350. Seems like a shame that I cant use them since they are both like new. Oh well.
Have you considered using a volt meter on the tele connection to see if it's the RBA that is causing the problem with the batteries ? I'm sure that may clear up some problems if it's the low ohms on RBA causing certain batteries to fail.
I did consider it but never tried it cause they worked on the gunmetal pv with the same set up. Put a vision stone 3 on and they both fire now. Well at least I know they work but I still wont be able to use them unless I can get this vs3 to ever stop leaking. Its the only thing I have thats around 2 ohms. Carto and nova have to much resistance. Thanks for the advice.
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