SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device

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Gummy Bare

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I Started with 240, then 360 and 400. I also tried 500 after that but didn't really need it. You can't see the final result when the atty is on anyways so I wasn't too fussy about the finish. I have another Natural which I left as is to use attys with air feed through the 510 connector.

Nice, a guy at work said he should have some. Gonna give it a shot tomorrow.

Long thread so I didn't read it all, are people's firing buttons loosening up over time so it's easier to push? I don't think I got what it takes to mod the button with a new spring. I'm assuming it will get better with time, not that it's that bad right now.

Did you sand the positive and negative post wile you where doing the top? Not sure how much people are taking off to get the desired voltage gain.

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fordski

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Nice, a guy at work said he should have some. Gonna give it a shot tomorrow.

Long thread so I didn't read it all, are people's firing buttons loosening up over time so it's easier to push? I don't think I got what it takes to mod the button with a new spring. I'm assuming it will get better with time, not that it's that bad right now.

Did you sand the positive and negative post wile you where doing the top? Not sure how much people are taking off to get the desired voltage gain.

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I did sand the post, switch contact and the adjustable screw in the 510 connector on both ends. Just a light sanding enough to expose the brass. I found the easiest way to get at the post was to screw out the white disc using a small precision screw driver stuck in one of the small holes and spinning it out.

Regarding the switch I ordered 2 and found the first one was quite stiff which I modified, but the second one was quite light so perhaps they've changed the spring in later models.
 

Gummy Bare

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I did sand the post, switch contact and the adjustable screw in the 510 connector on both ends. Just a light sanding enough to expose the brass. I found the easiest way to get at the post was to screw out the white disc using a small precision screw driver stuck in one of the small holes and spinning it out.

Regarding the switch I ordered 2 and found the first one was quite stiff which I modified, but the second one was quite light so perhaps they've changed the spring in later models.

So, you sanded the 510 screw on the side that touches the positive end of the battery and the side what touches the atomizer?

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peejoe

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question guys i hope you can help me. i sanded all the top and bottom screws so it will expose the brass. i checked the voltage with freshly charge battery its 4.1 v, when i put my igo L 0.5 ohms and checked the voltage again it runs at 3.3 V. is this a huge voltage drop or a normal voltage in mechanical? i was hoping that i will get 3.9 volts with .5 ohms with fresh charge battery. but it alway says 3.3 volts.
 

Gummy Bare

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question guys i hope you can help me. i sanded all the top and bottom screws so it will expose the brass. i checked the voltage with freshly charge battery its 4.1 v, when i put my igo L 0.5 ohms and checked the voltage again it runs at 3.3 V. is this a huge voltage drop or a normal voltage in mechanical? i was hoping that i will get 3.9 volts with .5 ohms with fresh charge battery. but it alway says 3.3 volts.

How do you get the screw back on our adjust it when you sand if the flat head screw driver line were the positive end of the battery connects?

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Gummy Bare

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Sidetracking:
I just don't understand why vapers are shooting for 30 watt attys. :confused:

Because it rocks on RBA drippers add with SS mesh. And still gives good vaper production when the battery drain gets lower. With a 1.5ohm coil vaper production starts to suck at just 3.9 volts.

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thebong24

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question guys i hope you can help me. i sanded all the top and bottom screws so it will expose the brass. i checked the voltage with freshly charge battery its 4.1 v, when i put my igo L 0.5 ohms and checked the voltage again it runs at 3.3 V. is this a huge voltage drop or a normal voltage in mechanical? i was hoping that i will get 3.9 volts with .5 ohms with fresh charge battery. but it alway says 3.3 volts.

I havent run my natural at .5 but I have ran mine at .9 with .6 drops and always remember running a slr no matter what mod u have even the high end will have a huge drop in that level... my friend tried .3- .4 on his ggts and the battery last not even an hour not even 30 mins it actually last 20 mins on a 18650... below .8 imo dont expect a good battery life... slr= drains... like in ur situation 3.3 v on a fresh batt underload with .5 ohms is good already ;) my 2 cents

sent from mars
 

VapingTurtle

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Because it rocks on RBA drippers add with SS mesh. And still gives good vaper production when the battery drain gets lower. With a 1.5ohm coil vaper production starts to suck at just 3.9 volts.
The answer is...because everyone can ;)...also its one of the best vape and its good to experiment things :D

Why not stack a pair of batts and go for higher voltage and higher resistance instead of trying to suck very high amperage out of a small battery? Neither is safe. But if you are using new, good quality, matched batteries, I'll bet the stack is safer. You are really pressing near a short circuit at 0.5 ohms. Not good. Running with scissors.
 
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thebong24

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Why not stack a pair of batts and go for higher voltage and higher resistance instead of trying to suck very high amperage out of a small battery? Neither is safe. But if you are using new, good quality, matched batteries, I'll bet the stack is safer. You are really pressing near a short circuit at 0.5 ohms. Not good. Running with scissors.

Like what I said... everyone has its own vaping lifestyle....u may not like it but they like it... u have ur own personal preference they have their own... and im guessing the one that running slr knows the risk ;) so in the end its all about personal preferences :D

sent from mars
 

Gummy Bare

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Why not stack a pair of batts and go for higher voltage and higher resistance instead of trying to suck very high amperage out of a small battery? Neither is safe. But if you are using new, good quality, matched batteries, I'll bet the stack is safer. You are really pressing near a short circuit at 0.5 ohms. Not good. Running with scissors.

Under a constant load the stats the pencil work are with you... but when you press a button for 2 seconds at a time it's a whole other story.

I'm aware of the risk and have asked around a lot before running things so low. I also use a short stop chip and charge my batteries in a lipo bag each and every time.

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WattWick

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The Kick is a device you put in your mech mods to get variable wattage.

Got my Natural yesterday. Love the size of it in 18350 mode. Finally something to replace my eGo batteries for outdoors use. Also got 2x AW 18490 batteries and was disappointed to find out they wouldn't fit. Now that I know I need the 18500 tube, it's nowhere to be found in stock. So, I started looking for a temporary fix and ended up with this:

IMG_20130418_162116-large.jpg

018 Silicone O-rings. Not quite sure if I like the looks or not. Not too shabby, tho.

Edit: Fiddlin' about with attachment.
 
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thebong24

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The Kick is a device you put in your mech mods to get variable wattage.

Got my Natural yesterday. Love the size of it in 18350 mode. Finally something to replace my eGo batteries for outdoors use. Also got 2x AW 18490 batteries and was disappointed to find out they wouldn't fit. Now that I know I need the 18500 tube, it's nowhere to be found in stock. So, I started looking for a temporary fix and ended up with this:

View attachment 200780

018 Silicone O-rings. Not quite sure if I like the looks or not. Not too shabby, tho.

Edit: Fiddlin' about with attachment.

Awesome fix lol never thought about that :)

sent from mars
 
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