SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device

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Gummy Bare

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I did mine by hand going around the circumference of the IGO. You have to be careful that you go in one direction and hold a constant pressure on it. I'm sure it would work out better if there was a way to put it on a drill or something to spin it, however I didn't have one so didn't try. I just stuck the cap over my thumb and went at it! Good luck.

I'll give it a shot and see how it goes, I'll probably just do the IGO at first and see how it comes out.

BTW, is that a bottle of HHV I see peaking out from behind you natural mod in that pic?

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Gummy Bare

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Bored and just wanna share my natural with terminator c minus the clear tank with 510 adapter and o ring in between for grip lol just cosmetics but hey it looks good :)

sent from mars

A good way to get rid of the issue you having with the mod tube pieces now screwing shut all the way is to sand down the adjustable screw on the top of the mod. I had the same issue as you did at first.... my screw was all the way up and still didn't give me enough room to have the tubes screw shut flush. If you take the screw all the way out and sand down both sides a bit, it will not only give you enough room for the batterys to be in and the tubes to screw on flush... but the sanding will expose the brash underneeth and give a better connection to minimise the voltage drop wile your atty is under load. Just do sand off to much, do it a little then screw back in and see if that fixes it. If not then take it back out and do it a little more.

I ended up sanding the 510 post the pops up above the top of the mod, which made the screw even more to long so I had to sand of quite a bit of the screw for it all to fit nice again. But if your using tanks, clearos, and other attys that get air from underneeth you don't want to sand the 510 post down.... just the screw a bit.

Hope that help you. I didn't come up with this idea, it had been mentioned a few times in this long thread. But it was best thing I ever did for this mod. Went from a mod I used now and then, so a mod I use everyday.

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fordski

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I'll give it a shot and see how it goes, I'll probably just do the IGO at first and see how it comes out.

BTW, is that a bottle of HHV I see peaking out from behind you natural mod in that pic?

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::

Yup that's a bottle of heavenly tobacco, one of my favourite morning vapes. I like HHV juices and their prices are reasonable, although I've discovered another vendor Velvet Cloud Vapors which has some nice juices.
 

thebong24

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A good way to get rid of the issue you having with the mod tube pieces now screwing shut all the way is to sand down the adjustable screw on the top of the mod. I had the same issue as you did at first.... my screw was all the way up and still didn't give me enough room to have the tubes screw shut flush. If you take the screw all the way out and sand down both sides a bit, it will not only give you enough room for the batterys to be in and the tubes to screw on flush... but the sanding will expose the brash underneeth and give a better connection to minimise the voltage drop wile your atty is under load. Just do sand off to much, do it a little then screw back in and see if that fixes it. If not then take it back out and do it a little more.

I ended up sanding the 510 post the pops up above the top of the mod, which made the screw even more to long so I had to sand of quite a bit of the screw for it all to fit nice again. But if your using tanks, clearos, and other attys that get air from underneeth you don't want to sand the 510 post down.... just the screw a bit.

Hope that help you. I didn't come up with this idea, it had been mentioned a few times in this long thread. But it was best thing I ever did for this mod. Went from a mod I used now and then, so a mod I use everyday.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::

Thanks for sharing but ive resolve that long time ago lol I just want some cosmetic look coz I was bored hehehe

sent from mars
 

Gummy Bare

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Yup that's a bottle of heavenly tobacco, one of my favourite morning vapes. I like HHV juices and their prices are reasonable, although I've discovered another vendor Velvet Cloud Vapors which has some nice juices.

Yea, I recognize that purple cap anywhere.... got about 15 of them sitting at my house. I love HHV as well. I've really been getting into ahlusions juice line as well. Their "deal maker" and "smooth criminal" are amazing. There NET's like HHV.

By the way, what kind of scotch bright sponge did you use? I didn't realize they made like 10 different kinds.

Here's a list of them, maybe you'll recognize the one you had.

http://www.scotch-brite.com/wps/por...+4337&loc=en_US&plmlblid=1319209952481&rt=mr3

Hopfully that link works, I copied it from my cellphones browser and it did so in mobile web view so I tried to turn it into regular.

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Gummy Bare

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They have no-scratch. Is there an extra-scratchy kind?

Anyone got some pointers for sanding down the 510 connector and contact? I've never wet-sanded anything, and never sanded metals.

"Just do it?", or is there some trick to it?

I got help a few pages back from someone, can't remember the person's name (sorry, gotta run into a meeting or I'd look it up). I didn't wet sand it, just did it dry. Started with 240 grain, then went to 320, then finished off with 400. I did that on the 510 post that stuck up above the top of the mod, then also took the screw out and did the same to both sides of the screw until I saw brass color. Do a little of the screw, then put it back in and see if it's still to long... if it is then do it some more. One you sand down the 510 post that sticks up above the top of the mod, you'll have too sand down the screw because it will be to long at that point because it was made for the length of the 510 post, which is easy shorter after sanding it down flush.

Here's what it looks like after, and here's the screw as well.
 

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USinchains

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The only thing I'd still like to do would be to mod the firing button do its not so stiff.... not quite sure how, or if I got what it takes to get it done.

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The easiest way to loosen it, without taking it apart or replacing the spring, would maybe be to squeeze some polishing compound into it and depress it rapidly for a little while. I found that burrs had a lot to do with stiffness seeing as I could rotate the button a bit and instantly have a smoother glide. Obviously, taking it out gives you more options, I found that gripping the tube in a vice and tapping a flat head screwdriver against the nut was the fastest way to remove it.
 

Gummy Bare

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The easiest way to loosen it, without taking it apart or replacing the spring, would maybe be to squeeze some polishing compound into it and depress it rapidly for a little while. I found that burrs had a lot to do with stiffness seeing as I could rotate the button a bit and instantly have a smoother glide. Obviously, taking it out gives you more options, I found that gripping the tube in a vice and tapping a flat head screwdriver against the nut was the fastest way to remove it.

Polishing geese hu? Might have to give that a try. Could rotating the button a bunch end up unscrewing anything and making it pop off or parts come undone inside?

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USinchains

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Polishing geese hu? Might have to give that a try. Could rotating the button a bunch end up unscrewing anything and making it pop off or parts come undone inside?

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No, it's free floating with the spring behind it. The nut holds it together enough to use the lock ring without that happening.
 

El_tecolote

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The only thing I'd still like to do would be to mod the firing button do its not so stiff.... not quite sure how, or if I got what it takes to get it done.

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Not certain if anything changed with the design, but I received one from my vendor's newly received shipment last week (she was out of stock for a couple weeks). The button is silky smooth and requires just the very slightest effort to depress. After all the comments I had read, I was prepared to try and attempt surgery, but was pleasantly surprised.
 

USinchains

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Maybe I'll just start twisting away and see if it loosens up a bit then.

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Doubt it, there's parallel friction along the button shaft as it glides through the housing. Depressing it over and over is what loosens it for people. A mild abrasive like polishing compound or toothpaste might speed it up. Spinning it is only going to put a groove around the shaft, if anything at all. The reason mine gets smooth when I turn it is because the burs or rough edges are being moved away from each other.
 
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fordski

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I've been playing around with various finishing methods. The satin one is finished with scotchbrite and I redid it after reading o another thread about using a drill with an old carto to spin the mod while using the sctochbrite or sandpaper....I finished the more polished looking one with sandpaper up to 600 grit as that's the finest I had. Time to go buy some finer paper to get a real polished finished. I also finished my IGOs the same so they would match the mod...

IMG_0691.jpg
 
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