Smoktech Vmax Owners - tips, tricks and quirks

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VAPNJ350

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Ok folks, this is a topic I would really like everyone to pay attention to. As a EE myself I've been saying this all along from the start but I feel it's past time for everyone to get on the same page with this.

EVERYONE PLEASE WATCH THIS VIDEO AND PAY VERY CLOSE ATTENTION AND MORE-SO....FORGET EVERYTHING YOU 'THINK' YOU KNOW ABOUT THE SUBJECT.

Link :

Important Information: Reviewers and Pulse Width Modulation mods

This link was forwarded to me from scotay87. Thank you scotay.









Important Information: Reviewers and Pulse Width Modulation mods
 

MrPicC

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Try and pop the top cap and removing the board (got to get the window up thru the hole) it's really easy to get the button back in although you may have to resolder the wires on the top cap.

Alternatively, it should still be under warranty - send it back to the vendor.

Yes already filled out form for replacement! Ordered a spare for future issues also. Thank you though for the info, knowing me I'll be in need of help again :)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 

dwcraig1

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So still reading here and still learning......

I just noticed that my SS coating is peeling off from the end cap. Just on the rounding. Maybe it's because i hold it in my hands too much.

Well if this isn't going to get worse i can live with it but just releasing the info.
Both end caps on SS are chrome plated brass.
 

AnsonJames

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Both end caps on SS are chrome plated brass.

When I tried to repair my SS with the 510 connection, I used an industrial buffer on the top cap and battery cap - they were real steel (just would have removed the plating) have the changed this with the newer versions?
 

skipdashu

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Both end caps on SS are chrome plated brass.

Yea Craig, Must be something they changed at some point(s). On my SS VMax (red LED) you could see the machining marks in the bottom, inside of the end cap. I think plating would've covered that up. If I still had it (when 510 connection flaked, I traded it in on a chrome ZMax) I'd put a drill to one of the vent holes to see for sure.
 

dwcraig1

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Yea Craig, Must be something they changed at some point(s). On my SS VMax (red LED) you could see the machining marks in the bottom, inside of the end cap. I think plating would've covered that up. If I still had it (when 510 connection flaked, I traded it in on a chrome ZMax) I'd put a drill to one of the vent holes to see for sure.
That is the one I had also but sold it last night, either they used higher grade SS than for tube as the tube is magnetic but not the end caps. If they tried to solder ground wire to socket end cap they would have a real problem trying to get a good "cold" joint on that.

EDIT: We all know what POS means, I guess I am FOS on this matter as my Z has steel battery cap and brass top, silver V1 Vmax is brass on both ends. I will check the SS I sold as I see the guy often.
 
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donesmokin

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Just a reminder that we now have our very own 'MAX VV devices' section. Whereas in the past there was no choice but to lump all the categories together under this thread, one can now easily open a new thread with appropriate subtopics. I.e., Vmax and Penelope, Vmax and Vivi Novas, Vmax and.......

THX for the reminder fuzzione. Posting a battery problem over there now.
 

martinc

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I had to enlist the help of VAPNJ350 to get this DID mini going, I just now re-DID it. That's not why it's called a DID but it's a good name for it.

By golly I think I have a winner.:vapor:

Dont you lay your hands on a hellfire...

The V is extremely sensible to shorts,a lot more than my svoemestos in fact.
 

VAPNJ350

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Does the Zmax appear to short easily with SS mesh wick the same way the Vmax does?



Now that's a good question. Out of all the stuff I've put on top of mine for testing underload and such I haven't really played with the SS mesh RA's I have yet. I'll get back to you on that as soon as I can after I have a good solid conclusion.
 

TBinAZ

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As far as SS mesh goes, and this appears to be pretty universal with protected circuitry, once the coil and mesh becomes dry it is likely to throw a short error unless there is a decent amount of juice present to create a 'buffer'. This is after a bit of usage and/or flushing with water to clean. It was driving me looney at first as to why a perfectly working setup would short out after cleaning, or when starting to get dry of juice. Well, put some more juice on it again before testing it... and there ya go, good as new.

As a disclaimer, this is my experience so far for what it's worth.
 

VAPNJ350

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I know I'm comparing something that wasn't supposed to be but I'm not sure power wise if the z can out perform my v1 Vmax, I am doing a controled experiment using the new Zmax, my old Vmax and about six beers. I'm starting to get confused.


V.A.D.T. VAPERS AGAINST DRUNKIN' TESTING...lol

Friends don't let friends drink .....and test PV's...



Disclaimer : This as been a message sponsored by V.A.D.T. please stay tuned for regular scheduled programming.



This has been a message from vadt, in no way do we condone the testing of any and all pv's while under the influence of alcohol. Please, always act responsibly while testing, using, dropping, throwing, or changing pv's. We at vadt and Vapn J enterprises thank you for your support. We now return to our regular scheduled programming. lol..lol.!!
 

skipdashu

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That is the one I had also but sold it last night, either they used higher grade SS than for tube as the tube is magnetic but not the end caps. If they tried to solder ground wire to socket end cap they would have a real problem trying to get a good "cold" joint on that.

EDIT: We all know what POS means, I guess I am FOS on this matter as my Z has steel battery cap and brass top, silver V1 Vmax is brass on both ends. I will check the SS I sold as I see the guy often.

I just checked my ZMax (appears to be chrome). Batt cap is some what magnetic and I can pick it up with RE magnets but not much more than that. I think it's just the spring that's magnetic. Easy to detach from outside but attaches to spring strongly. Bottom of the tube is non-magnetic (top appears to be magnetic but I'm sure that's the components in it). The top cap seems non-magnetic also. I also see machine markes on the inside bottom of the batt (bottom) cap so I guess that means nothing.
 

donesmokin

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V.A.D.T. VAPERS AGAINST DRUNKIN' TESTING...lol

Friends don't let friends drink .....and test PV's...



Disclaimer : This as been a message sponsored by V.A.D.T. please stay tuned for regular scheduled programming.



This has been a message from vadt, in no way do we condone the testing of any and all pv's while under the influence of alcohol. Please, always act responsibly while testing, using, dropping, throwing, or changing pv's. We at vadt and Vapn J enterprises thank you for your support. We now return to our regular scheduled programming. lol..lol.!!

LMAO! Let this be a warning. I decided to study how beer consumption influenced my vape testing. The results were inconclusive. At some point, I don't remember when, beer starts to look a lot like e-liquid and vise versa. YMMV, I know mine did.
 
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