Smoktech Vmax Owners - tips, tricks and quirks

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C1BERUS

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Aug 14, 2010
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You know I've been playing with this thing for a week now and for the life of me cannot think of any practical use for a newer version that put out less power at its indicated 3v. What it produces at this setting is the least I would ever wish to use I think, say for a 1.5 atty. Even then I usually select something higher.

im using 1,5ohm DC @ 3,3V lol....
above that the flavor get weaker n weaker..
 

fuzzione

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I just got my Vmax! My button doesn't wiggle. And some of my 18350's do fit in the end cap but require some gentle wiggling to get them in.

I guess I have to change my avatar to some kind of primate now huh?

Hey congrats Vic. Funny about the battery fit. Suppose it's safe to assume some will fit better than others according to who manufactures/wraps them? Mine are generic IMR's and fit perfectly.

Let us know what works well for you and what doesn't with the vmax once you've had a chance to play with it.
Monkey avatars are always welcome here!
 

Thraizer

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I just got my Vmax! My button doesn't wiggle. And some of my 18350's do fit in the end cap but require some gentle wiggling to get them in.

I guess I have to change my avatar to some kind of primate now huh?

Lucky you!! I'm still waiting for mine! :blink: Does it take the flat top 18350's or button top?
 

fuzzione

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Using the botton top on mine. These particular ones (blue wrap, unbranded) fit absolutely perfectly. No wiggling necessary to get them in the end cap. Not even 'snug' i.e., if I put the battery in the cap and turn it upside down the battery will fall out. But snug enough so that no rattle. So either there exists micro differences in battery width depending on who makes them, or the end cap itself may be a work in progress as to its wall thickness, from one production run to another. Don't know for certain, just putting this out there.

Vic, does your voltage default to 5 or 3v when you put the batteries in? You may have gotten a newer version as my button does wiggle but works fine.
 
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VictoryNotVengence

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Using the botton top on mine. These particular ones (blue wrap, unbranded) fit absolutely perfectly. No wiggling necessary to get them in the end cap. Not even 'snug' i.e., if I put the battery in the cap and turn it upside down the battery will fall out. But snug enough so that no rattle. So either there exists micro differences in battery width depending on who makes them, or the end cap itself may be a work in progress as to its wall thickness, from one production run to another. Don't know for certain, just putting this out there.

Vic, does your voltage default to 5 or 3v when you put the batteries in? You may have gotten a newer version as my button does wiggle but works fine.

I have flat top blue wrap unbranded 18350's. The voltage defaults to 5v, and the button is a little wiggly (in my first post I couldn't hear it over my air conditioner).
If i put a battery in the end cap i could probably hold onto it hanging off the edge of an unfinished sky scraper and I wouldn't fall.

Did you see the Fazed review where in his 2nd vmax he couldn't fit the battery in? I think i have a model from that run, and if so if he had used some time, patience, and vasaline like i did he could have fit it in. (twss)

these are 900 mah batts though so they may be a bit "buldgyer" also they are ICR not IMR (go ahead and chastis me, i havn't blown my head off yet).

SInce its been out of the box I've been using it with a 3 ohm cisco 306 in a DCA at its "3.5v" setting. Any higher and its to hot.
 
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VictoryNotVengence

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I have some 2 ohm dual coil cartos, can these be used in the Vmax?
I know that 1.5 ohm dcc's will pull to many amps and blow out the switch and the 2ohms were the highest ohm dcc's I could find at the moment I was shopping. Will these work okay?
Also I got the Vmax and a DCA delivered on the same day. THe DCA came with a free debridged 306 atomizer (because I am so cool i guess) and I put it on the device to test the ohm reader. As soon as I pressed the button I got the code "F1" - meaning it was to low of ohms...must be an LR and I was thinking - great, i broke it before i could even vape on it - but it was OK afterward.

On a side note - to the people that are arguing in a definatly negative way, could you cool it please? I've seen 5 vmax threads closed in the last day because of it, I would rather the ones left stay open. Thanks.
 

C1BERUS

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Aug 14, 2010
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I have some 2 ohm dual coil cartos, can these be used in the Vmax?
I know that 1.5 ohm dcc's will pull to many amps and blow out the switch and the 2ohms were the highest ohm dcc's I could find at the moment I was shopping. Will these work okay?
Also I got the Vmax and a DCA delivered on the same day. THe DCA came with a free debridged 306 atomizer (because I am so cool i guess) and I put it on the device to test the ohm reader. As soon as I pressed the button I got the code "F1" - meaning it was to low of ohms...must be an LR and I was thinking - great, i broke it before i could even vape on it - but it was OK afterward.

On a side note - to the people that are arguing in a definatly negative way, could you cool it please? I've seen 5 vmax threads closed in the last day because of it, I would rather the ones left stay open. Thanks.

Yes, it can be used in vmax , mine 1,5 ohm i usually used it @ 3,3-3,4.
2 ohm must be around 3,5-4,0v.

funny thing , i charge my Battery, plug it in vmax, n vape...
i forgot to set the voltage down, i got very2 bad vapor i think i broke my dc, but i turn the voltage down it vape just fine...
i try not to forgot set voltage down now... i usually used LT.
 

fuzzione

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I have flat top blue wrap unbranded 18350's. The voltage defaults to 5v, and the button is a little wiggly (in my first post I couldn't hear it over my air conditioner).
If i put a battery in the end cap i could probably hold onto it hanging off the edge of an unfinished sky scraper and I wouldn't fall.

Heh. Got the picture. Reminds me of a gal I used to know actually. But yes it now sounds like you got one of the earlier run models like the rest of us, after all.

these are 900 mah batts though so they may be a bit "buldgyer" also they are ICR not IMR (go ahead and chastis me, i havn't blown my head off yet).

Na. You sound like a big boy to me.

I recall reading somewhere recently that the ICR iteration is a little thicker than the IMR's. Don't ask me where. Been reading everything everywhere these days.

Don't even get me started about Fazed's review.

Strange about your 306 dca. Same results with different juices I take it? I'm using a SC generic 306 at 1.7 (showing 1.6) and still get a great vape at your exact setting. Something about the DC's I would guess.
 

fuzzione

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Apr 11, 2012
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GTA Ontario
I have some 2 ohm dual coil cartos, can these be used in the Vmax?
I know that 1.5 ohm dcc's will pull to many amps and blow out the switch and the 2ohms were the highest ohm dcc's I could find at the moment I was shopping. Will these work okay?
Also I got the Vmax and a DCA delivered on the same day. THe DCA came with a free debridged 306 atomizer (because I am so cool i guess) and I put it on the device to test the ohm reader. As soon as I pressed the button I got the code "F1" - meaning it was to low of ohms...must be an LR and I was thinking - great, i broke it before i could even vape on it - but it was OK afterward.

On a side note - to the people that are arguing in a definatly negative way, could you cool it please? I've seen 5 vmax threads closed in the last day because of it, I would rather the ones left stay open. Thanks.


+1. Honest commentary is encouraged here, both positive and negative about the vmax but please take a 2nd look at your post before pressing the submit button. I'd hate for this one to get shut down too because 'the vmax dudes can't behave themselves.'
 
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martinc

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I use mine at 3.2 with stardusts.

I tried a Stone tank on it,worked a while then had the same shutdown as you experienced.

The Stone works on everything else I own.

I wouldnt call that a flaw,but a hell of a safety feature.

Minimum button movement,used DeoxIT gold on the cap threads and atty threads upon unboxing,flawless.

The paint seems thin and the logos will wear off but that will justify a good buffing :)
 

fuzzione

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Apr 11, 2012
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I use mine at 3.2 with stardusts.

I tried a Stone tank on it,worked a while then had the same shutdown as you experienced.

The Stone works on everything else I own.

I wouldnt call that a flaw,but a hell of a safety feature.

Minimum button movement,used DeoxIT gold on the cap threads and atty threads upon unboxing,flawless.

The paint seems thin and the logos will wear off but that will justify a good buffing :)

I'd REALLY like to see what this thing looks like as polished copper. I understand you're now volunteering for this beautification experiment Martin? :)

I used dialectric grease on the same sensitive spots. The other lubricant's I initially had in mind just didn't seem appropriate.
 

martinc

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2.3 ohms form Canvape;that thing went through a few refills and I guess it was dying,the metal drip tip was unbearable on it (actually burnt my lip on it),so just a bad timing to try it on the V.

This is the lubricant (the 100% solution oil) I use on all my APVs: DeoxIT® Gold G-Series
 

motomatt

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2.3 ohms form Canvape;that thing went through a few refills and I guess it was dying,the metal drip tip was unbearable on it (actually burnt my lip on it),so just a bad timing to try it on the V.

This is the lubricant (the 100% solution oil) I use on all my APVs: DeoxIT® Gold G-Series
Which product or products do you use ?
 

motomatt

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The DeoxIT is the lube :)
I am sorry for the bad ? and being such a pain. Which form lube do you use :
A) Standard Spray: Provides flushing action
Products:
DeoxIT® D5 Spray (D5S-6) & DeoxIT® D5 Mini-Spray (D5MS-15)
DeoxIT® GOLD G5 Spray (G5S-6) & DeoxIT® GOLD G5 Mini-Spray (G5MS-15)
DeoxIT® SHIELD S5 Spray (S5S-6) & DeoxIT® SHIELD S5 Mini-Spray (S5MS-15)
Formulation: 5% DeoxIT® (active ingredient), 75% odorless mineral spirits (carrier solvent), 20% propellant
Formulation contains petroleum naphtha (odorless mineral spirits) solvent, and is briefly flammable (until
solvent evaporates within 2-3 minutes). It’s slower to evaporate, providing flushing action to remove surfaces
dirt, grease and other contaminants. Is ideal for connectors and components removed from equipment
or those that are easily accessible. It is safe on plastics. When in doubt, always test for compatibility, especially
vintage equipment with aging ABS plastic(s).
B) Non drip - Quick Dry Spray: Nonflammable, fast evaporating carrier solvent formula
Products:
DeoxIT® DN5 Spray (DN5S-6) & DeoxIT® DN5 Mini-Spray (DN5MS-15)
DeoxIT® GOLD GN5 Spray (GN5S-6N) & DeoxIT® GOLD GN5 Mini-Spray (GN5MS-15)
DeoxIT® GOLD GX5 Spray (GX5S-6N)
DeoxIT® SHIELD SN5 Spray (SN5S-6N) & DeoxIT® SHIELD SN5 Mini-Spray (SN5MS-15)
Formulation: 5% DeoxIT® (active ingredient), 75% 1,1,1,3,3-PENTAFLUOROPROPANE (carrier solvent), 1-5%
isopropyl alcohol, 20% propellant
May be used where fast evaporation and/or non-flammability is required, and no dripping is preferred.
It is also safe on plastics.
C) 100% Spray: No solvents, metered one-shot valve
Products:
DeoxIT® D100 Spray (D100S-2)
DeoxIT® GOLD G100 Spray (G100S-2)
Formulation: 20% DeoxIT® (active ingredient), 80% propellant
Used where maximum lubrication is needed, but solvents are not desired. For example, where cleaning and
lubrication is required or over-spray might adversely affect sensitive plastics. DeoxIT® utilizes a metered
valve which sprays short bursts of 100% liquid.
 
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