The vario is using the same basis and basic chipset as the VMAX,just with a 18650. The Zmax is a whole different device than the VMAX.....trust me, it really is.
Oh I know, just not sold on vw yet
The vario is using the same basis and basic chipset as the VMAX,just with a 18650. The Zmax is a whole different device than the VMAX.....trust me, it really is.
That's what I was thinking. I've already submitted a trouble ticket to the vendor. And you're right it is a Vmax.
Perhaps check to see that your battery cap spring is seated properly.
I feel like such a dope. I thought I had changed the batteries, but I hadn't. I have one set of red generic that I was told were unlabeled Efest batteries. They were the problem. Put the Efests back in and the issue disappeared.
Guess where those other batteries are going?
Thanks for the help.
Success! I've solved my DID/Vmax buzzing problem and I hope this helps anyone else in the same predicament.
It was the center positive pole of the DID. If the bottom connector does not protrude far enough out it creates a short. I discovered this accidently as I was rocking the DID a little back and forth on the vmax....you could hear the buzzing start and stop. I took the DID off and adjusted the center pin so it sticks out just a hair further out the bottom and presto. Buzzing stopped, ohm reading stabilized and it's perfect once again. Vaping like a bloody steam engine in fact.
After cleaning and reassembling my DID last time I must have tightened the bottom nut a little too much, forcing the bottom connector up the shaft too far.
So check those positive posts if you're experiencing an unwanted buzz
I intentionally reproduced this phenomenon by deliberately overtightening that nut and sure enough, the buzzing was back. Adjusting the center post cured the problem. I shudder to think what I've put the poor circuit board through all this time but it's still alive and functioning beautifully!
Hmm is the SS on Zmax just a SS coating, with brass on the inside?
Someone told me this today, but I don't really know what to think? (I doubt it, but who knows?)
I checked on the site I ordered mine from, and it actually does say "SS color"
And even the description at the site says that both the Chrome and SS versions are brass with a coating on the outside.
It won't make me cancel my order if its not solid SS, but it does kinda suck if its true...
Edit: Ooops wrong thread, sorry.
I had an old problem come back last night when I changed the batteries, an apparent lack of a completed circuit. Tested the spring with a pair of needle nose pliers and it had work loose so I screwed it very tight into the cap and problem solved.
If I have this problem again I'll pull the spring, put the end cap and spring in an ultrasonic cleaner with alcohol then buff the spring to make sure there is a clean contact surface.
Errol
The SS VMAX and ZMAX are Stainless Steel throughout, not brass ....NOT SS coated or colored. If their is even a way to do that with SS. It either is or it isn't. Atleast both of mine are anyway.
Nice discovery manSuccess! I've solved my DID/Vmax buzzing problem and I hope this helps anyone else in the same predicament.
It was the center positive pole of the DID. If the bottom connector does not protrude far enough out it creates a short. I discovered this accidently as I was rocking the DID a little back and forth on the vmax....you could hear the buzzing start and stop. I took the DID off and adjusted the center pin so it sticks out just a hair further out the bottom and presto. Buzzing stopped, ohm reading stabilized and it's perfect once again. Vaping like a bloody steam engine in fact.
After cleaning and reassembling my DID last time I must have tightened the bottom nut a little too much, forcing the bottom connector up the shaft too far.
So check those positive posts if you're experiencing an unwanted buzz
I intentionally reproduced this phenomenon by deliberately overtightening that nut and sure enough, the buzzing was back. Adjusting the center post cured the problem. I shudder to think what I've put the poor circuit board through all this time but it's still alive and functioning beautifully!
I have some fusions coming in the mail. Do they have better airflow?Just a quick post to say:
Vaping a 801 fusion on an SS vmax@ 4.3 volts = heaven that can't be equaled by anything, my gf can take her $300 setup ( nice pretty glass tank and a very expensive USA made mod -hmm?? ) and take pretty pics all she wants, I'm satisfied beyond belief with my vape![]()
Just a quick post to say:
Vaping a 801 fusion on an SS vmax@ 4.3 volts = heaven that can't be equaled by anything, my gf can take her $300 setup ( nice pretty glass tank and a very expensive USA made mod -hmm?? ) and take pretty pics all she wants, I'm satisfied beyond belief with my vape![]()
I have some fusions coming in the mail. Do they have better airflow?
13 of 'em as of a few minutes ago.Apparently, there were a couple of 'cancellations' in Sheks new(er) ZMax co-op. May be filled already, but never know.
Hmm is the SS on Zmax just a SS coating, with brass on the inside?
Someone told me this today, but I don't really know what to think? (I doubt it, but who knows?)
I checked on the site I ordered mine from, and it actually does say "SS color"
And even the description at the site says that both the Chrome and SS versions are brass with a coating on the outside.
It won't make me cancel my order if its not solid SS, but it does kinda suck if its true...
Edit: Ooops wrong thread, sorry.
Got a vmax yesterday and so far I'm blown away by this thing. It blows my vtube, twist and other ego batteries out of the water. I've noticed that I would vape 3.0 ohm cartos at 5v on my vtube and with the vmax I haven't gone past 4.3v.
I think that's just a translation thing.
Inside of mine (VMaxs) looks like unpolished steel and defiantly different than the inside of my black one... also wall thickness seems a micro-tad (technical term) less on the SS vs the black one.
zi jian