About a month ago I grabbed two SS SMPL clones. They worked amazingly and I was really happy until a few days ago. The buttons on BOTH (which I find strange) get super hot when fired more then a few times in a row sometimes quicker. They get really hot but the batteries don't get hot. It doesn't seem to matter what build I put in my drippers from high to sub ohm and not below .3. It still occurs. I got authentic Sony cells and it just started doing this. I cleaned it all including disassembling the switch and still happening. I really want to use these and grow my mech collection more but it gets to hot to touch. Another thing is sometimes it doesn't seem to fire and I need to click the button again but thats rare. So can anyone tell me possibly why its getting so hot. I know theres not much to break but I cleaned it all four times so I do not know what else to do. My wife who uses mech mods and has been for a long while is stumped to because we cleaned it all a bunch of times, I built it at 1.5, I know its not shorting etc so I dunno. Maybe its just a crappy clone?
SMPL Mod-Help
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It's impossible to tell from here in my chair, but could it be arcing? The current would still get to the atty, but would be burning a hole inside the switch on the way.
How would I tell. Im not sure whats wrong. I have cleaned it numerous times really well though. It sucks. I dont get why BOTH are doing it. It isnt normal cause it wasnt doing if at first and it gets WAY to hot. Warmth I can understand but this is weird. I love a nice mech but this really bums me out. I would be so upset if it was an authentic. So any ideas on what I should do before I just give up on these mods and either stick with my DNA40 mods (I dont want to!) or get something else
Yes it extends far enough. I am aware how to use a mech which bothers me more. Im completely out of ideas. This should NOT be happening. Thinking about getting rid of them. Im using my Flask currently but want to get back to the sleek look of mechs. I love the SMPL so much this bums me out terribly.
If they are the spring buttons, replace the springs.
Somewhere your button is causing resistance which is why they are getting hot. I've read many times, for whatever reason, it is the button spring...
Somewhere your button is causing resistance which is why they are getting hot. I've read many times, for whatever reason, it is the button spring...
Where do I get a spring for it. Its both of them btw which is strange no? I cleaned the spring and such. So where do I get one, I assume I need the same spring so?
How much is enough? You mean more than 1 mm or less than 1mm?
Are the batteries flattops or buttontops.
If flattops, have they become dented from the 510 thread and centerpin pressing down on them?
And a multimeter would help to troubleshoot
So no matter what atty you install, in either SMPL, you get the same hot button?
Or is it always the same atty that does it on both your SMPL's? If this is the case, maybe you're screwing the switch on too tight, causing the atty's 510 screw to compress and short out. Might explain why the resistance measures normal in an ohmmeter, but installed in the SMPL it's pushing in the pin. If you're installing the switch with anything more than 5-10 in-lb of torque, you're overdoing it.
Or is it always the same atty that does it on both your SMPL's? If this is the case, maybe you're screwing the switch on too tight, causing the atty's 510 screw to compress and short out. Might explain why the resistance measures normal in an ohmmeter, but installed in the SMPL it's pushing in the pin. If you're installing the switch with anything more than 5-10 in-lb of torque, you're overdoing it.
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I bet you they are dented all to hell.
I saw a multimeter at Fry's for $10 today, so price isn't an object, it's the understanding of how simple circuits work that most VV guys lack.
Um no my batteries arent dented to hell lol. Whats your problem bud? I would never use a dented battery. Dont post in my threads useless bs. Thanks. Yes it happens with both mods, 25 or so different attys. its been tested all along lol. I been vapeing a LONG time I know about how to use these tools. Oh well. Thanks for the help to the ones who posted. Strange indeed.
Diffrent attys. I screw the button in. I just tried extremely lightly turning it (although I was not over doing it) and same thing on both with all different attys. Yes the attys 510 sticks out this isnt my first go around.
I apologize... I was annoyed for other reasons last night, unrelated to your post.
I still want to see what the innards of your switch look like. Did you use a snap-ring plier to take it apart? I always assumed that all the clones had the wavy ridges the same as the authentic, but I'm starting to think that some just aren't executed well, or are completely different.
I still want to see what the innards of your switch look like. Did you use a snap-ring plier to take it apart? I always assumed that all the clones had the wavy ridges the same as the authentic, but I'm starting to think that some just aren't executed well, or are completely different.
Thanks a lot man. That means a lot to me that you came back and said that, seriously. The innards of my switch, its just a spring. Theres a c clip which I just popped up with these real pointy tweezers then it comes apart in three pieces. Spring, the button and then a circle of metal. It all fits together and then you put the c clip back on. Wavy ridges? What do you mean. I do not have a cam to take pics or I would. I am going to give it one more go at taking the switch apart and cleaning it again. I wont be buying a non copper mod ever again though. I really want to get these back to the way they were when I first got them because I love them so much but they dont seem to be hitting 100% right either and the heat is infuriating. I am rocking a SMPL clone of my wifes with a .2 build and just chain vapeing non stop and I DON'T get any excessive heat. No idea the maker of it, came from FT but it is copper. She has two authentic SMPL mods and 5 clones and I cant "have one to keep" only borrow. So rude lol.
No worries... I was being an as$hat.
Here is a pic of my 1:1 clone switch. It's kinda gray looking because it's coated with Ox-Gard. I think these wavy ridges not only prevent the switch from spinning around, but provide a huge surface area for current to travel (eliminating potential hotspots). Does your switch not have these ridges?
I have a SS SMPL clone and the button has never even got warm with builds down to .3 ohm. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance. Your mod wants to heat up the spring BEFORE it will fire your atty. I would try to eliminate the problems one by one. Have you tried switching out the spring with the one from a SMPL that is firing correctly?
I once had a side button mod that would consistently get hot. It turned out that I had "cooked" the spring at one time or another (it was blackened) and no matter how much I cleaned it, I never could get it to fire correctly. I must have "annealed" that thing......lol Replacing with a nice shiny new spring fixed it.
I once had a side button mod that would consistently get hot. It turned out that I had "cooked" the spring at one time or another (it was blackened) and no matter how much I cleaned it, I never could get it to fire correctly. I must have "annealed" that thing......lol Replacing with a nice shiny new spring fixed it.
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No worries... I was being an as$hat.
Here is a pic of my 1:1 clone switch. It's kinda gray looking because it's coated with Ox-Gard. I think these wavy ridges not only prevent the switch from spinning around, but provide a huge surface area for current to travel (eliminating potential hotspots). Does your switch not have these ridges?
Yes. I just cleaned it again and same issues. I guess I should buy a 1:1 copper.
Did this start happening as soon as you switched to the vtc4's? Could you try going back to your old batteries to see if they exhibit the same symptoms.
Where did you get your vtc4's? If not from a reputable dealer, could counterfeit batteries cause this issue?
Where did you get your vtc4's? If not from a reputable dealer, could counterfeit batteries cause this issue?
I only buy my cells from illuminationsupply. I stated in my OP my cells were good. And yes, it happens with my Orb30 batts, E Fest 30amp 2100, 25r and my older VTC5s.
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