I think you said it still gets just as hot with >1 ohm builds, right? If the hot button is present regardless of the atty build resistance, I believe your atty is shorting. If the problem was with the button, it usually only manifests with low sub-ohm builds.
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If I might interject myself into conversation as I have been having a similar issue with my clone. My first thought is that when I do a full cleaning, I can usually get a day or two if great use before the button starts getting hot. If it is in fact the spring that is causing the issue, perhaps we should all be looking at sourcing new springs. As to size and type I am not sure. My second thought going off something a previous post mentioned is maybe we are collectively having a short..or partial short (if that is such a thing). I notice the hot button seems to be more likely to occur if I don't get a solid press on the switch or if its not sufficiently tightened down. All my Atty pins do come out from the negative threading..some by just a hair, so there could be something not connecting the right way. For example often when I get the hot switch the quality of vape just plummets.
My vape quality plummets as well. I should be getting a better vape but I am SURE its not a short. Maybe its just a garbage clone. I have been using a copper clone SMPL and its been working flawlessly. I'll probally grab a brass and a copper one. Anyone have one from FT that works flawlessly they can link to?
How do I use this ox guard. My wife doesnt use it she said its not 100% needed but I want to try it. So where/how much do I apply. Mothers Mag, should I use that to clean the switches and springs?
Mothers is fine. Just make sure you give it a good rinse with hot water to get all the residue off 
Definitely Mother's Mag first, remove all traces of polish with some alcohol, then use a q-tip swab to put a light coat of Ox-Gard everywhere inside and out. Lowe's has it in the electrical dept for about $5.
edit: for clarification, I'm talking about the switch.
Some of the grease will work its way into the mod's bottom threads, and that's okay. Just don't use it at the 510 thread.
Shop Gardner Bender 1-oz Ox-Gard Anti-Oxidant Compound at Lowes.com
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I put a longer spring in my brass SMPL and it works better than the stock one that comes in it. I think the one I used came out of a nemi clone.
Yeah, I think you or someone else had mentioned that in a previous thread. I keep forgetting to grab some when I'm out and about. Should get around to it this weekend. I'm gonna take the switch apart this weekend and clean it dab some on the main post and hole on the top piece of the cap. Also been meaning to pick up a small wire brush to deal with my threads.
Will work:
Won't work:
Again, I know. I have only been using attys that will work but thanks. Going to try ox guard I suppose next. Maybe its just I got a pair of really low quality SS clones?
I only posted it for reference for future readers of this thread sometimes you just need a pic 
sometimes you just need a pic So I was browsing FT and 
Does anyone have this "V2" SMPL clone from Fasttech? WTH is up with that switch? What a POS!
Please don't tell me the authentic REM SMPL switch looks anything like this, because if it does, that would be a total FAIL.
SMPL V2 Style 18650 Mechanical Mod
Does anyone have this "V2" SMPL clone from Fasttech? WTH is up with that switch? What a POS!
Please don't tell me the authentic REM SMPL switch looks anything like this, because if it does, that would be a total FAIL.
SMPL V2 Style 18650 Mechanical Mod
It's got the SWEET rice pin system, bro!... And Magnets!So I was browsing FT and
Does anyone have this "V2" SMPL clone from Fasttech? WTH is up with that switch? What a POS!
Please don't tell me the authentic REM SMPL switch looks anything like this, because if it does, that would be a total FAIL.
SMPL V2 Style 18650 Mechanical Mod
Looks like it blows............... Big clouds.
So I was browsing FT and
Does anyone have this "V2" SMPL clone from Fasttech? WTH is up with that switch? What a POS!
Please don't tell me the authentic REM SMPL switch looks anything like this, because if it does, that would be a total FAIL.
SMPL V2 Style 18650 Mechanical Mod
Honestly I don't think its all that bad. Comparable to the switch in my stingray x which is still one of the better switches I have ( I only stopped using it because I hated the black sleeve). I think it would be a lot better if they removed the rice pin, added in the wavey ridges and added slots for the magnets to sit. A screw in neg pin would be a bit easier to deal with then that c clip that bounces out.
Duc, took your advice today and finally grabbed some ox-gard. Full strip and clean on both my main mods, starting with mothers mag, on everything, soapy water to remove any residue, then a quick coat of alcohol to clean everything up. I added the ox gard to contact points on the button on the smpl and on the magnet buttons on my stingray x. Right now I'm using the Stingray and it is hitting beastly. I'll bring the SMPL into rotation tomorrow, but considering I was getting a hot button again of yesterday, I have high hope.
If the ox-gaurd is meant to improve electical conductivity, would it be good to put a little on the threading of a modular tube? or the pin on an atty and the threads in the button housing?
Absolutely, follow the current path... put that stuff everywhere that current has to jump across two metal surfaces, except of course the 510 thread. I don't recommend using it there because getting it on your atty would be nasty.
Whoops then. I put some on the pin very carefully, but I didnt do the threads. Just the threads where the button screws in. Hopefully that resolves the hot button issue for a while. I probably should have put a little more on..I used the tiniest ever so small drop to start with.
Yeah I wouldn't worry about it too much, just be mindful of where you're putting your fingers so you don't cross-contaminate.
I think the biggest thing for getting rid of hot-button is putting the grease inside the SMPL's button, especially along those wavy ridges, where I think the bulk of the current is travelling. So was it noticeably better after the Ox-Gard coat?
I think the biggest thing for getting rid of hot-button is putting the grease inside the SMPL's button, especially along those wavy ridges, where I think the bulk of the current is travelling. So was it noticeably better after the Ox-Gard coat?
Unknown as of yet since I'm currently using my Stingray. I try to use the stingray at home (birthday present from my wife) and my smpl clone for out and about. I'll have it set up for tomorrow and report back. After a full cleaning and application of ox gard, my stingray is hitting very hard...and definitely getting warm through out the body of the mod and button. But thats not unexpected at .2-.3 ohms and chain vaping.
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