SnowWolf 200w Box Mod with Temperature Control

[jseah]

3 days in now I'm loving mine. As far as impedance goes, I'm running a nickel temp build in it right now that reads .07 cold and its working flawlessly. Only issue so far is it doesn't always recognize an atty change. Sometimes I can just back it out and fire it "open" then screw the new atty back in for it to recognize the change, other times I have to slap a different atty on it, then switch back to the new one to get it to see it a new build. Hope that makes sense...

This problem seems to be prevalent with other TC mods like the DNA40's and the evic-VT. This isn't an issue with the Yihi chip since you have to manually "set" the resistance by forcing the mod to read the coil resistance by pushing both the up and down buttons simultaneously. This also avoids the creeping resistance that seems to plague the Kanger nickel OCC's.

 

[Thrasher]

But was it built for professional vapors?


Its no good unless it can make your wicks burst into flames

 

[Matty316]

I like the look of this but would be scared of smashing that glass. I really wanted to like temp control but so far with the mods I've tryed I've been disappointed. I've yet to find one that can consistanly maintain the temp set without without going into temp protect and cutting the power. I do think temp control is the future for vaping though and hopefully with time it will get better.

Does this one have a nickel purity setting that would open up the possibility of using other types of wire such as titanium and stainless steel?

 

[Completely Average]

3 days in now I'm loving mine. As far as impedance goes, I'm running a nickel temp build in it right now that reads .07 cold and its working flawlessly. Only issue so far is it doesn't always recognize an atty change. Sometimes I can just back it out and fire it "open" then screw the new atty back in for it to recognize the change, other times I have to slap a different atty on it, then switch back to the new one to get it to see it a new build. Hope that makes sense...

If the atty resistance is the same it's not going to see it as a different atty.

But was it built for professional vapors?

Its no good unless it can make your wicks burst into flames

Put it in wattage mode, crank that wattage up to 150 or higher, and it will set your wicks on fire in an instant. No problem.

 

[Thrasher]

If the atty resistance is the same it's not going to see it as a different atty.




Put it in wattage mode, crank that wattage up to 150 or higher, and it will set your wicks on fire in an instant. No problem.

Victor would be proud

 

[Completely Average]

I like the look of this but would be scared of smashing that glass. I really wanted to like temp control but so far with the mods I've tryed I've been disappointed. I've yet to find one that can consistanly maintain the temp set without without going into temp protect and cutting the power. I do think temp control is the future for vaping though and hopefully with time it will get better.

Sounds to me like you're just setting the temperature too low for the power you want.

That's precisely how temperature control works though. Once you reach the desired temperature it begins reducing the wattage to maintain the temp. If it's kicking on and lowering the wattage but your wanting higher wattage then you need to bump the temp up higher. If it didn't reduce the wattage then the temps would continue to increase, which isn't exactly controlling the temperature, is it? What wattage have you been selecting on the other mods anyways? Most go up to 600F.

Does this one have a nickel purity setting that would open up the possibility of using other types of wire such as titanium and stainless steel?

No. You can use titanium on it, but you'll have to set the temperature lower to compensate for the difference in the way titanium behaves compared to nickel. The mod will recognize the titanium coil and put it in temperature control mode, but titanium runs hotter than nickel at the same resistance, so you'll need to lower the temps to compensate.

 

[Completely Average]

Victor would be proud

Did you see Victor's review of the SnowWolf?

He actually did almost set his wick on fire by accident. He wasn't paying attention to what he was doing, switched from a kanthal to a nickel coil, and then forgot to tell the mod the atty changed before firing it. So he fired that nickel coil at 100W and you can see the coil instantly glow bright inside the wick. He had no idea what he did wrong.

Start at 16:20 and watch. This is a good lesson about what happens if you don't pay attention when switching from kanthal to nickel.

 

[Rixsta]

No please, not Victor again, anyone but Victor. SnowWolf box mode Ahhh at nanny watts, nanny watts. Please don't click play.

 

[Matty316]

Sounds to me like you're just setting the temperature too low for the power you want.

That's precisely how temperature control works though. Once you reach the desired temperature it begins reducing the wattage to maintain the temp. If it's kicking on and lowering the wattage but your wanting higher wattage then you need to bump the temp up higher. If it didn't reduce the wattage then the temps would continue to increase, which isn't exactly controlling the temperature, is it? What wattage have you been selecting on the other mods anyways? Most go up to 600F.

Yeah I understand that. I run at 420F When it lowers the wattage thats fine but when it hits temp protect it cuts the power off which is where i have a problem with it. if they were better at holding at the set temp and less prone to going into temp protect i would be happy. I don't go higher than 420F because that kind off defeats the object of temp control when using cotton IMO.

Shame about the nickel purity missing on this as changing the resistance coefficient is a more acurate way of using other types of wire.

 

[Completely Average]

Yeah I understand that. I run at 420F When it lowers the wattage thats fine but when it hits temp protect it cuts the power off which is where i have a problem with it. if they were better at holding at the set temp and less prone to going into temp protect i would be happy. I don't go higher than 420F because that kind off defeats the object of temp control when using cotton IMO.

420F is the scorch temperature of BONE DRY cotton. When wet with juice the scorch temperature of cotton is over 525F.

Do you plan on vaping your wicks until they are bone dry before adding juice? If not, why would you want such a low operating temperature? What exactly do you think you're achieving by having the operating temperature set so low that your wick can completely dry out before the temperature control kicks in?


Now, this is just my opinion, but I want my temp control coils to work just like my kanthal coils, except I don't want dry hits or burnt wicks. That means I would set the temp as high as a kathal coil would be if it was working right, which is right around 500F. High enough that the nickel coil works just like a kanthal coil when the wick is wet like it should be, but low enough that the temp protection kicks in when the wick starts to get a little bit dry, but before the temps get high enough to scorch the wick. Then, if the temp control kicks in and drastically reduces the power I know I need to either add more juice or fix the wick.

You're basically just setting it up to have a weak, underpowered vape at all times.

Shame about the nickel purity missing on this as changing the resistance coefficient is a more acurate way of using other types of wire.

I agree, but it is what it is.

 

[Completely Average]

No please, not Victor again, anyone but Victor. SnowWolf box mode Ahhh at nanny watts, nanny watts. Please don't click play.

LOL, the idiots reviewer.

Like I said, that's a good example of what NOT to do. It's entirely user error, and he never does figure out what he did wrong.

 

[Rixsta]

LOL, the idiots reviewer.

Like I said, that's a good example of what NOT to do. It's entirely user error, and he never does figure out what he did wrong.

Yeah I know why you posted it I was just messing about. He did 3 different videos of the same mod, in one of them he burns himself.

 

[Rixsta]

Well there is a first for everything, dropped the SnowWolf from a metre high onto wooden flooring, to my amazement, not a single scratch or mark, I have a feeling this glass is tougher than I thought, to many poeple are put off by the glass, I don't think it's that much of a concern. Obviously its glass, so maybe I was lucky, it's still performing great and no visible wear on the device at all. Still love it ..

 

[Rixsta]

I am enjoy the snowwolf 200W too. Excellent performing !

Good to hear, do you find if you press the fire button quick you can change the ohm reading buy 0.01 or 0.02, it's become a habit for me for some reason to get my 0.25ohm coil to read no more than 0.26ohm, maybe it's my OCD haha

 

[Mrez]

Just ordered one last night. Can't wait. Looking forward to the battery life and hitting kanthal with higher wattages then my istick can do.

 

[Completely Average]

OK, I've found my first quirk.

I'm not willing to call it a problem yet. I'm at work and need to get back home so I can test this properly, but...

My 30W box mod showed my Nautilus tank as having a 1.6ohm coil (I believe I had put a 1.5ohm coil in it, but it's pretty old now) and was working fine at 16W. Put the same tank on my SnowWolf today and it registers at 1.8ohms and the same 16W setting resulted in a burnt taste. Had to back it down to 12W to get it working right.

On the other hand my Kanger Subtank Mini was showing .6ohms on my 30W mod and shows .59ohms on the SnowWolf. However, again, I could run this at 30W on my 30W mod without any problems, but 30W on the SnowWolf gave me burnt taste on my second hit. Had to back it down to 27W to get it working right.


So, I can conclusively say that the SnowWolf is delivering about 3W more power to the atty at the same setting than my 30W. That's consistent across multiple attys. It's not really surprising though, that 30W mod was one of the original Cloupor "Hana clones" using a cloned DNA chip, so I'm not surprised that it may be a bit on the weak side. However, the .2ohm difference on the Nautilus coil is a bit strange, especially since there is virtually no difference at all on the Subtank resistance readings. I'll have to wait until I get home and toss that Nautilus head on my ohms reader and see what it says. One of the two mods is off with a 1.5+ohm coil, the question is, which one?

 

[Rixsta]

OK, I've found my first quirk.

I'm not willing to call it a problem yet. I'm at work and need to get back home so I can test this properly, but...

My 30W box mod showed my Nautilus tank as having a 1.6ohm coil (I believe I had put a 1.5ohm coil in it, but it's pretty old now) and was working fine at 16W. Put the same tank on my SnowWolf today and it registers at 1.8ohms and the same 16W setting resulted in a burnt taste. Had to back it down to 12W to get it working right.

On the other hand my Kanger Subtank Mini was showing .6ohms on my 30W mod and shows .59ohms on the SnowWolf. However, again, I could run this at 30W on my 30W mod without any problems, but 30W on the SnowWolf gave me burnt taste on my second hit. Had to back it down to 27W to get it working right.


So, I can conclusively say that the SnowWolf is delivering about 3W more power to the atty at the same setting than my 30W. That's consistent across multiple attys. It's not really surprising though, that 30W mod was one of the original Cloupor "Hana clones" using a cloned DNA chip, so I'm not surprised that it may be a bit on the weak side. However, the .2ohm difference on the Nautilus coil is a bit strange, especially since there is virtually no difference at all on the Subtank resistance readings. I'll have to wait until I get home and toss that Nautilus head on my ohms reader and see what it says. One of the two mods is off with a 1.5+ohm coil, the question is, which one?

Interesting read, I have had this happen once, try hitting the fire button fast a few times, see if it changes the ohm reading, maybe unscrew and screw it back on, dunno, just a thought. It's happened on my Segelei 100w plus too, maybe a mod thing ..

One thing I will add, my Samsung 25r batteries weren't cutting it in the SnowWolf, I didn't think much of it but sometimes I would have to chain vape, about 3 hits before the warmth of the vape came through, hard to explain, I put some Efest 35A batteries in and , yes, big big difference. Then I saw that Asmodus recommend 30A batteries in this mod.

 

[Rixsta]

Yeah ! I also have a same habit as you.
Great !
Lol

Phew, it's not just me

 

[alicewonderland]

Expected Delivery Day:Saturday, June 27, 2015

mine -should- be here tomorrow, it still hasnt arrived at my local post office though so im worried , ordered from vaperoyalty and is requiring signature. Since they dont deliver sunday, and i have class monday I might not be home if they deliver it late

 

[Rixsta]

Expected Delivery Day:Saturday, June 27, 2015

mine -should- be here tomorrow, it still hasnt arrived at my local post office though so im worried , ordered from vaperoyalty and is requiring signature. Since they dont deliver sunday, and i have class monday I might not be home if they deliver it late

Hey, you went with the Wolf, great, once you get over the initial shock of the weight, you'll hopefully love it..
Hope it turns up OK too..

This calls for a bread cat