So I made myself sick

[Ryedan]

DUh lol but theres something about the extra dense with the heat being amped up.. I can make a 3 ohm coil that can make as much or more vapor than a low ohm build and it doesn't over-nic me so fast. I really do think the combustion point has science intuit there.. Almost 1200 degrees on a .2ohm to my 400 or 500 degree on a 3 ohm difference..

No combustion takes place in normal vaping. Only when you have dry, burnt hits.

As long as you keep the coil wet, its temperature does not go much over the vaporizing temperature of the liquid. The only way it can reach 1200 degrees is if it's dry.

It's the same principle that allows you to put water in a waxed milk carton, or plastic bottle and boil the water by holding the container in a fire. The paper or plastic don't burn or melt because the water cools them

 

[Sucker_dad]

All the technical Jargon aside I don't build for clouds. I build for flavor. That is my number one goal. Even rocking .3ohm I wasn't knocking out huge clouds, although they were thicker than any I've ever done before.

 

[Ryedan]

All the technical Jargon aside I don't build for clouds. I build for flavor. That is my number one goal. Even rocking .3ohm I wasn't knocking out huge clouds, although they were thicker than any I've ever done before.

I set up for flavor, quick volume of vapor and vapor production in that order. I generally find that at around 0.5 - 0.6 ohms on Genisis attys or RDAs using 27 gauge Kanthal. Whatever works is good!

 

[Ohms Lawbreaker]

....It's the same principle that allows you to put water in a waxed milk carton, or plastic bottle and boil the water by holding the container in a fire....

Ouch! I burnt my hand damn you! Never taking your advice again!

 

[Visus]

No combustion takes place in normal vaping. Only when you have dry, burnt hits.

As long as you keep the coil wet, its temperature does not go much over the vaporizing temperature of the liquid. The only way it can reach 1200 degrees is if it's dry.

It's the same principle that allows you to put water in a waxed milk carton, or plastic bottle and boil the water by holding the container in a fire. The paper or plastic don't burn or melt because the water cools them

Thats a full immersion with proper height from the flame allows you to boil in such containers, put it close to the flame and it will breech the container. I watch survival man do that quite a bit, he finally has his height down a bit better but never perfect.. The coil is not in full immersion its covered by a microscopic like thin layer of glycerol. You best believe with the right mod or device that heat gets up there..

 

[certus11]

i'd like to see that 3 ohm build that creates as much or more vapor as a 0.2 ohm build

me too. youtube content right dargggggh

Sent from my GT-S5360 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Ryedan]

Thats a full immersion with proper height from the flame allows you to boil in such containers, put it close to the flame and it will breech the container. I watch survival man do that quite a bit, he finally has his height down a bit better but never perfect.. The coil is not in full immersion its covered by a microscopic like thin layer of glycerol. You best believe with the right mod or device that heat gets up there..

Check out coil temperature testing done in this thread. The first 2 posts and then #6.

If you have proof that this is incorrect, I would love to see it

And here's a better way to boil water in a plastic bottle.

 

[Mitey F]

Even if the coil gets beyond the vaporization temperature of the nic-goo, the goo will not continue to heat above its vaporization point without more heat input. Because the vapor is immediately pushed away from the coil (as you can easily observe when firing an atty with the coil exposed) the vapor will not get scalding hot. It's the same reason you can put a torch to a block of ice, and the ice will stay at 32 degrees until it is melted, and then the water, IF heat is still applied, is able to heat up.

So even if one coil were able to get way hotter than another, with appropriate airflow, the temp of the vapor would not likely be substantially different. Yes?

 

[JTrain23]

Sent from my intestines using my linear gas accelerator.

I lol'd at this...

 

[JTrain23]

I vape 24mg nic in my tanks on my MVP2, but I only drip 12mg nic in my RDA. I did try 24mg in my RDA and I had a pretty intense nic buzz for a little bit.

 

[Visus]

Check out coil temperature testing done in this thread. The first 2 posts and then #6.

If you have proof that this is incorrect, I would love to see it

And here's a better way to boil water in a plastic bottle.

Experience that it is incorrect, at the very end of a vaping drag the temp spikes really fast as the e liquid cannot keep up with demand of the coil. This is where we get vapers tongue as you said, "a dry wick." Using the known coefficient of heat of resistance wire by amperage through resistance wire per gauge using the chart as a guide you best believe it sky rockets close to those temps at the very end of a vape drag.. This is where the air intake helps keep the temp down a bit but its still climbs to very hot.

People walk on hot coals as well; while the plastic does not fully melt its properties are changed from radiant heat, add in some wind and that bottle will melt.. Like I said, I have watched survivor man do that numerous times and he goes with dangling over the fire because when windy the bottle will melt when trying to boil on top of coals..

That thread you have linked, "this thread" only supports what I am am saying.

 

[Visus]

Even if the coil gets beyond the vaporization temperature of the nic-goo, the goo will not continue to heat above its vaporization point without more heat input. Because the vapor is immediately pushed away from the coil (as you can easily observe when firing an atty with the coil exposed) the vapor will not get scalding hot. It's the same reason you can put a torch to a block of ice, and the ice will stay at 32 degrees until it is melted, and then the water, IF heat is still applied, is able to heat up.

So even if one coil were able to get way hotter than another, with appropriate airflow, the temp of the vapor would not likely be substantially different. Yes?

View attachment 309932

Sometimes I overfill my dripper--no quite often I overfill it and it sometimes drips on my hand, on the webbing of thumb and pointer and its scalding hot. When I was a noob coil builder sometimes I would get explosive little pops of juice and they would leave little red burn dots on my arms. This is with a few seconds button push -- that takes a heckuva lot of heat to do that.

This is truly interesting..

 

[Mitey F]

Experience that it is incorrect, at the very end of a vaping drag the temp spikes really fast as the e liquid cannot keep up with demand of the coil. This is where we get vapers tongue as you said, "a dry wick." Using the known coefficient of heat of resistance wire by amperage through resistance wire per gauge using the chart as a guide you best believe it sky rockets close to those temps at the very end of a vape drag.. This is where the air intake helps keep the temp down a bit but its still climbs to very hot.

People walk on hot coals as well; while the plastic does not fully melt its properties are changed from radiant heat, add in some wind and that bottle will melt.. Like I said, I have watched survivor man do that numerous times and he goes with dangling over the fire because when windy the bottle will melt when trying to boil on top of coals..

That thread you have linked, "this thread" only supports what I am am saying.

This is a big assumption. IF the e-liquid cannot keep up with the demand of the coil, then the heat will rise very quickly... IF

 

[Visus]

This is a big assumption. IF the e-liquid cannot keep up with the demand of the coil, then the heat will rise very quickly... IF

Its like you do not vape your just posting.

Its no assumption depending on wicking matter and absorption. I use ss mesh, cotton YMMV, silica YMMV, but with ss mesh oh hecky yes, hot man, that gets hot, oh yes that is what we call sizzlin hawt . Its how my higher ohm coils keep up with lower ohm coils as well the ss mesh being heat conductive as well as porous makes for a bigger cloud display.

 

[alkaiser]

sorry, there's no way that 3 ohm coil you posted is going to compete in clouds with microcoils at 0.2 ohms. (unless you throw like 12 volts at it)

 

[Visus]

sorry, there's no way that 3 ohm coil you posted is going to compete in clouds with microcoils at 0.2 ohms. (unless you throw like 12 volts at it)

knowledge is your friend
nano coils react differently than your normal run of the mill coils; diameter less than 1/16 then come back and chat, gauge also plays an important role as well as mod and volts..

For a normal 3 ohm coil you are correct for a nano coil you just been schooled..

 

[alkaiser]

i know about nanocoils, i've been rebuilding for a good while now and i've used nanos/micros/all new twisted stuff/etc

but even with nanos, nope. not even close.

 

[Visus]

i know about nanocoils, i've been rebuilding for a good while now and i've used nanos/micros/all new twisted stuff/etc

but even with nanos, nope. not even close.

Then why do you not know

sure
maybe your mod is incapable of delivering the juice needed but you really only need 2 amps with 32 gauge and it gets uber cloudy..

read the heat chart I posted again look at how low an amperage is needed to reach temps with 30 gauge, 32 gauge even lower amperage to reach hellfire, it takes heat and wick coverage to make vapor.. Aha its not a trick or magic its science of heat and area coverage. There is no competition for my wick and a low ohm wick, even watch rip's video he shows you 19 watts on a 3.4 and it's uber cloudy and hawt.

 

[alkaiser]

rip doesn't blow that much clouds lol

 

[Visus]

rip doesn't blow that much clouds lol

For 60/40 blend he blows a mountain of cloud

its not rocket science guy the truth is present and correct there is another safer way to blow regulated pinoy sized clouds..