So I shrink my Vamo ...

Status
Not open for further replies.

Jp20

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
May 11, 2013
95
61
Victorville, Ca.
Did not have time to do a good setup but there is a quick picture with some different modding:

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/1781/1368287035887.jpg

1368317387676.jpg
Wow, Simply beautiful. these make me want to keep my Vamo. But I don't have the tools or skills for it. you are a Vamo master!!!!
 

Big Mac

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 16, 2012
350
274
Citrus Heights, CA
howdy folks....an awe inspiring thread and mod here.

Question for ya, how are you making contact with the positive connection on the head piece? I can see that in the one from the 3d printer they are using small bolts threaded into the plastic. On the alum ones, it appears there is just a built up of solder to make the connection, but I can't really tell. I'm making mine from leather, inserting the tubes into a leather cover, so I'm wondering if just a pressure contact between the pos on the board and a copper strip will do.

Input and ideas would be appreciated.

Mac
 

northhar

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 18, 2011
672
776
CanTheBan
howdy folks....an awe inspiring thread and mod here.

Question for ya, how are you making contact with the positive connection on the head piece? I can see that in the one from the 3d printer they are using small bolts threaded into the plastic. On the alum ones, it appears there is just a built up of solder to make the connection, but I can't really tell. I'm making mine from leather, inserting the tubes into a leather cover, so I'm wondering if just a pressure contact between the pos on the board and a copper strip will do.

Input and ideas would be appreciated.

Mac

The positive wire is solder to the postive pin on the vamo...
In your case you will be making leather holders.. You will need to handle the negative also.. In this design the metal connecting the 2 tubes connects the negative also..

Post a pic of yours when done...
 

Big Mac

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 16, 2012
350
274
Citrus Heights, CA
Well, what I did was cut a small, maybe 1/8 inch wide, piece of copper. Shaped it into a "J" shape. The first try was to super glue it into the bottom of the case, inserted the tubes, and then removed and insert the battery about a dozen times. It finally cut itself loose from the glue due to some slight rocking motion. 2nd try was the same thing except I used shrink wrap around the copper except at the contact points (battery and head unit pin), shrank it down, and glued it into place again, this time the shrink wrap is what is glued in place. Allows for a bit of rocking, but since it doesn't move much, it hasn't broken free yet.

My 1st and new Vamo V5 is due in the next couple of days, still in hong kong, but I will take a few pics of the connection since I'm remaking the case and changing some small things.

edit: Oh yeah, the original idea of spacers turned into a fiasco, I was trying to hard. Once I set back and just looked the answer presented itself.
 

Big Mac

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 16, 2012
350
274
Citrus Heights, CA
Case was easy to do. Started out as 1.25" PVC pipe. I cut about 5 inches of it (wasn't sure how much I was gonna require) and heated it up with my heat gun. You could even use the stove to do the heating, just be careful, the PVC gets quite flexible and HOT! I got the burn marks to prove it....and I was careful. Try not to burn the PVC.

I then took two pieces of gray PVC, that are the same (just a wee bit smaller) diameter as the Vamo, cut them to 6" and while the PVC was hot, shoved them into it until they poked out the other end. There are some copper tubes that are the same size as the vamo but if you use them, the fit of the vamo maybe just a bit loose. You may need to run some sand paper in the new holder so the vamo is snug and both pieces fit side by side.

I cut the hole in front with a hole saw. You could cut out just about any pattern you wanted I guess.

Connection between the battery tube and the head tube....
image.jpg

Before sliding the tubes in, you'll have to cut 2 spacers to go in first. I made them from copper tubing. I cut them out, cut a section out of each so the contact would run between the two locations with no interference.

If there's any questions, or you need other pics, let me know.

Mac
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread