So, I tried the T3 last night
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Either way, I am still getting some gurgling in the T3 during use.
I try to fill it up with juice in it and I get juice all over my hand too.....is refilling it with juice still in it a "no-no"?
I can put up with the gurgling because it doesn't get in my mouth, just annoying. It would be nice to know what it is and if someone can tell me why my hand is getting soaked with refills, that would be excellent as well.
I try to fill it up with juice in it and I get juice all over my hand too.....is refilling it with juice still in it a "no-no"?
I can put up with the gurgling because it doesn't get in my mouth, just annoying. It would be nice to know what it is and if someone can tell me why my hand is getting soaked with refills, that would be excellent as well.
I just use an eyedropper when I refill, tilt the T3 and put the dropper in against the air tube, between it and the wall. I do miss sometimes, usually from being in a rush and not paying attention, and dump an eyedropper full down the air tube instead. I can'tfigure out how you're getting a handful off liquid though.
When it gurgles, I've found holding it horizontal while vaping ends the gurgle after a few drags. Another dodge is to take it off the battery and blow into a tissue through the battery end until the excess liquid is cleared.
When it gurgles, I've found holding it horizontal while vaping ends the gurgle after a few drags. Another dodge is to take it off the battery and blow into a tissue through the battery end until the excess liquid is cleared.
Someone else mentioned sticking rolled tissue or paper towel in the hole of the tip when tipping upside down and unscrewing to refill. I do that now and it saves liquid from leaking out. Great tip.
I also take rolled tissue and twist around in both shafts before putting back together after refilling. I only get gurgling when it gets just below half filled, but seems to work good when filled above that level.
I have tried the tissue method and it works pretty well. Something I have found though that works better/quicker/easier. Is to just push a q-tip up there till you get a nice tight fit and it will hold its self in place. After you fill it and turn it back up, pull it out, then use the other side to run through it again and make sure you have all the juice soaked up.
I only have Kanger T3's but the concepts here should be the same for the SI T3.
When refilling a T3, hold it horizontal so the liquid is away from the air tube, then unscrew the base quickly so liquid from the combustion chamber does not leak into the air tube. I also insert a pipe cleaner to catch any liquid that may have gotten into the tube. When filling the T3 I use a 14ga. blunt tip needle. Fits nicely between the air tube and the side wall of the T3. Also much faster than trying to drip fill a T3.
Others have tried adding additional "flavor wicks" or 2mm wicks to replace the original "flavor wicks" but I found that these additional wicks dampened the taste of my juices because it puts additional material between the coils and the air tube actually filtering the vapor. Besides I am concerned about the possible silica issues so I have moved to cotton wicks instead which means rebuilding right from the start.
IMHO the T3 just doesn't have enough wick material to absorb the juice which causes the combustion chamber to fill with liquid causing the gurgling.
I have put together a PDF step by step for Rebuilding a T3 with cotton wicks ( 5 coils for 1.9 Ω - 2.2 Ω ) that you can view and download here.
This is for using cotton twine, but, the concept is the same for other wick materials.
I put it in a PDF so you can zoom into the pictures. Its difficult to write instructions but I hope this might help.
UPDATES TO ORGINIAL PDF.
In my original PDF I said I was using one thread of twine (5 threads) plus 3 additional threads to stop the gurgling. Wouldn't ya know that after making that PDF the gurgling returned. Sooo, after several attempts I found that it really took 1 thread, which really had 12 threads plus an additional 6 threads. Now after 5 tanks, no gurgling! Its a little harder to work with the additional threads but well worth the effort. I now have T3's that don't gurgle. Additionally there is only a small amount of moisture on the battery post, after a full tank, which must be condensation which will probably always appear no matter what.
I boil my twine in the microwave using a 4 cup Pyrex measuring cup filled up to 3 cups for 20 minutes. Usually about 4 foot at a time. Then I run cold water into the cup so the hot water rolls over the top. This keeps the twine from picking up some of the residue released into the water from the boiling.
When I got the twine from Tractor Supply I first found it on the web site and my local store had to get it from another store using the SKU #.
NOTE: I am using Volt(SI) cartomizer battery post grommets because they are a little bigger than other grommets
The cotton threads are pretty lose so it takes some time to learn how to thread them into the grommets. Kinda like wetting the end of a thread before threading a needle.
When inserting the finished coil into the base, keep the exposed needle showing( facing up ). This makes it easier to fine tune the coils with a jewelers screwdriver .
I am now using 6 wraps on the coils and coming in at 2.5 - 2.8 Ω's.
When first using the rebuilt head, take several dry puffs first. Then little short puffs until you get a strong vapor. Cotton wicks burn easily.
When refilling a T3, hold it horizontal so the liquid is away from the air tube, then unscrew the base quickly so liquid from the combustion chamber does not leak into the air tube. I also insert a pipe cleaner to catch any liquid that may have gotten into the tube. When filling the T3 I use a 14ga. blunt tip needle. Fits nicely between the air tube and the side wall of the T3. Also much faster than trying to drip fill a T3.
Others have tried adding additional "flavor wicks" or 2mm wicks to replace the original "flavor wicks" but I found that these additional wicks dampened the taste of my juices because it puts additional material between the coils and the air tube actually filtering the vapor. Besides I am concerned about the possible silica issues so I have moved to cotton wicks instead which means rebuilding right from the start.
IMHO the T3 just doesn't have enough wick material to absorb the juice which causes the combustion chamber to fill with liquid causing the gurgling.
I have put together a PDF step by step for Rebuilding a T3 with cotton wicks ( 5 coils for 1.9 Ω - 2.2 Ω ) that you can view and download here.
This is for using cotton twine, but, the concept is the same for other wick materials.
I put it in a PDF so you can zoom into the pictures. Its difficult to write instructions but I hope this might help.
UPDATES TO ORGINIAL PDF.
In my original PDF I said I was using one thread of twine (5 threads) plus 3 additional threads to stop the gurgling. Wouldn't ya know that after making that PDF the gurgling returned. Sooo, after several attempts I found that it really took 1 thread, which really had 12 threads plus an additional 6 threads. Now after 5 tanks, no gurgling! Its a little harder to work with the additional threads but well worth the effort. I now have T3's that don't gurgle. Additionally there is only a small amount of moisture on the battery post, after a full tank, which must be condensation which will probably always appear no matter what.
I boil my twine in the microwave using a 4 cup Pyrex measuring cup filled up to 3 cups for 20 minutes. Usually about 4 foot at a time. Then I run cold water into the cup so the hot water rolls over the top. This keeps the twine from picking up some of the residue released into the water from the boiling.
When I got the twine from Tractor Supply I first found it on the web site and my local store had to get it from another store using the SKU #.
NOTE: I am using Volt(SI) cartomizer battery post grommets because they are a little bigger than other grommets
The cotton threads are pretty lose so it takes some time to learn how to thread them into the grommets. Kinda like wetting the end of a thread before threading a needle.
When inserting the finished coil into the base, keep the exposed needle showing( facing up ). This makes it easier to fine tune the coils with a jewelers screwdriver .
I am now using 6 wraps on the coils and coming in at 2.5 - 2.8 Ω's.
When first using the rebuilt head, take several dry puffs first. Then little short puffs until you get a strong vapor. Cotton wicks burn easily.
running the coil/wicks under very hot water for several minutes cleared up the gurgling for me, even below 1ml. I'm on my second fill since, and it is working much better. The T3 is awesome!
PS Don't drop your only T3 on a tile floor.
PS Don't drop your only T3 on a tile floor.
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Watch when you remove the T3 from the battery though. Twice I have dumped the juice by quickly unscrewing it to remove it from the battery only to find that I had actually unscrewed the head from the tank, instead of unscrewing the T3 from the battery.
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