Some homemade attys and genesis

[cos]

Ok I Love my wife
Here is what I got done tonight...
View attachment 39923View attachment 39924View attachment 39925View attachment 39926View attachment 39927

Got the main body and tube done, I am drilling the juice passage way into the o-ring groove so I can plug it and the o-ring will help hold it on place. Providing a cleaner look. I also decided on 3 passage ways along side of the juice res @ 3/16" wide and 1/32" deep.
Ok the hard part is done...
Dan

Dan just excellent. You sure did a fine job from start to finish. Thanks for sharing your work.

 

[ooSTURMoo]

If everything will be ok
do list and see if turner agree to do more pieces


I make pictures and movies. Appreciate themselves and make a decision to order or not.

 

[Turbo]

Yeah, 'sturm', I may be according to finances and seeing the videos. What gauge needle is .9mm by the way?

 

[slimest]

Scubabatdan,
I experimented with upper tank inside the 'combustion chamber', but could not get enough steam and taste. But got enough of condensation inside and leakage. I think, a plastic liquid tank could help (teflon for example), but I did not try this - too lazy

 

[Scubabatdan]

Dan just excellent. You sure did a fine job from start to finish. Thanks for sharing your work.

Thanks!

Scubabatdan,
I experimented with upper tank inside the 'combustion chamber', but could not get enough steam and taste. But got enough of condensation inside and leakage. I think, a plastic liquid tank could help (teflon for example), but I did not try this - too lazy

The current prototype I am using works great tons of vapor, taste and TH. The new one will be more compact and the coil will be closer to the mouth piece. I have not really had a problem with condesation. I agree a plastic tank would be better but I was looking for a one piece unit that everything was connected to.

I got the neg screw tapped and drilled the holes for the pos wire and juice path. Getting closer

Dan

 

[lorderos33]

Thanks!



The current prototype I am using works great tons of vapor, taste and TH. The new one will be more compact and the coil will be closer to the mouth piece. I have not really had a problem with condesation. I agree a plastic tank would be better but I was looking for a one piece unit that everything was connected to.

I got the neg screw tapped and drilled the holes for the pos wire and juice path. Getting closer
View attachment 39969View attachment 39970
Dan

Are you looking for a warmer vapor by putting the coil closer to the mouthpiece?

 

[Quick1]

thank you...I am under the assumption(correct me if I'm wrong )that when I get it right it can go steadily or is there a cut off point...I am trying to make sure I have it going good before I use good juice (flavored+ nic) in it...I have gallons of PG so I'm less concerned about it than my small reserves of flavoring and nic...

as to the wick its supposed to have spacing between the layers right?

To me the 325 works better with thicker juice. The 400 works better with thinner stuff. My 50/50 mixes are awesome with 325, my 90%vg stuff works best with 400. Same resistance on both coils using 32ga kanthal.

Hope that helps

I use very thick 100% VG juice. 400 mesh with 32 gauge kanthal coiled for 1.2 - 1.4Ω. 14? mm of mesh rolled to 2 mm diameter. It's tightly rolled. There is a very small space in the center only because you cannot roll it completely solid by hand. It's more throat hit than most prefer but I do not outrun the wick/capillary action. I've been using my current wick and coil for a full month now running 1.5 - 2 ml through it a day. I have never experienced a bubble or vacuum in the tank. Both the mesh hole and the lead holes are not air tight and given the rate you are drawing liquid out of the tank there is more than enough time for pressure equalization.

Capillary action is entirely dependent on the spaces in the weave of the mesh and not the hole in the center or how loosely or tightly it's rolled (for all practical purposes... I suppose you might be able to roll it tightly enough so that the wires of one layer press into the holes of the adjacent layer and change the ratio of open area to surface area).

 

[VWFringe]

has anyone thought of using PTFE coated mesh? I see it only goes down to 325 however

just wondering if this would avoid the need to burn the mesh

tho i'm not too excited about any form of plastic under my coil, this is supposed to be very high heat resistant...?

 

[lorderos33]

I use very thick 100% VG juice. 400 mesh with 32 gauge kanthal coiled for 1.2 - 1.4Ω. 14? mm of mesh rolled to 2 mm diameter. It's tightly rolled. There is a very small space in the center only because you cannot roll it completely solid by hand. It's more throat hit than most prefer but I do not outrun the wick/capillary action. I've been using my current wick and coil for a full month now running 1.5 - 2 ml through it a day. I have never experienced a bubble or vacuum in the tank. Both the mesh hole and the lead holes are not air tight and given the rate you are drawing liquid out of the tank there is more than enough time for pressure equalization.

Capillary action is entirely dependent on the spaces in the weave of the mesh and not the hole in the center or how loosely or tightly it's rolled (for all practical purposes... I suppose you might be able to roll it tightly enough so that the wires of one layer press into the holes of the adjacent layer and change the ratio of open area to surface area).

I've not had very good luck with the 400 mesh with my thicker juice, but I've always done a tigher roll than what you are using. Maybe I'll try it at 14mm. I've been using 325 mesh at 20mm rolled down to 2mm. Plenty of throat hit, TONS of vapor and it never runs dry because I leave a good 1/2 - 3/4 in of meshroll above the coil and the coil is sitting less than 2mm from the cap the mesh is inserted into.

I've always found that running resistance down to under 2.0Ω lead to burning quickly even with the air hole right on the coil so I would have to do 1 second pulses to retain the flavor of the juice. Could be the batteries too. I'm running AW 18650 2900mah so they have alot of power and running to that small a load I end up with more watts than I can efficiently cool with the airflow I like...unless I'm in air conditioning, lol.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Are you looking for a warmer vapor by putting the coil closer to the mouthpiece?

The prototype that is 3" long is a very "Cool" vape, The SCUBAGENv3 is a very warm vape, kinda looking for somthing in the middle with a tank that has a constant gravity fed juice supply.
Dan

 

[Quick1]

I've not had very good luck with the 400 mesh with my thicker juice, but I've always done a tigher roll than what you are using. Maybe I'll try it at 14mm. I've been using 325 mesh at 20mm rolled down to 2mm. Plenty of throat hit, TONS of vapor and it never runs dry because I leave a good 1/2 - 3/4 in of meshroll above the coil and the coil is sitting less than 2mm from the cap the mesh is inserted into.

I've always found that running resistance down to under 2.0Ω lead to burning quickly even with the air hole right on the coil so I would have to do 1 second pulses to retain the flavor of the juice. Could be the batteries too. I'm running AW 18650 2900mah so they have alot of power and running to that small a load I end up with more watts than I can efficiently cool with the airflow I like...unless I'm in air conditioning, lol.

Now I'll have to go measure one of my spare wicks... 14 or 20? I was rolling and oxidising them 10 at a time since I was swapping them out almost twice a week. Then this one just sort of settled in and it's been a month now. I'll go unroll one of my spares and make sure.

I'm running the same battery almost (AW 18650 2600mah). I also use my BB which takes a AW 14500 750mah. You can tell the difference between the two. Down under 1.5Ω I do end up pulsing on occassion and it's fine until it gets somewhere over 2Ω where there just isn't enough hit for me.

Before this last wick and coil I would wrap to something around 1.5 or less with 4 wraps. After about 3 or 4 ml through it it would get gunked up and weak. I would remove 1 wrap (during which the caked on gunk would get dislodged) and was good to go for another 3 ml. Then I would replace wick and coil. This was pretty consistent...until this last one. No idea what happened but it's just been steady for over a month now (1.5 ml a day). A bit of gunk just above the coil but you can still see all the coil wraps. They're all black looking but no significant build up over them. I may have entered the twilight zone

just measured everything.
I mispoke. my mesh is 20 mm rolled to just about 2 mm or just under (no, I unrolled one of my spares I carry with me and not my magic never-ending wick that's in service now).
My coil is 1.3Ω measured at the 510 connector.

oh, my wicks are 40 mm long. 30 mm tall tank, then the top cap. After that about 3 mm of bare wick, 3 mm with the 3 wraps around it and maybe 1 mm sticking up above the top wrap.

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

@ quick1 and what gauge kanthal are you using...

 

[Quick1]

@ quick1 and what gauge kanthal are you using...

32 gauge (0.20 mm)
That's 3.5 wraps around the wick (start on left side, end on right side)

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

ok...I have to order some more...the bit I had in my sampler pack is done for...But I have plenty of PG...lol

Cheap multimeters suk...Its reading about 3ohms higher than true...anyone know a good one for less than 40 bucks...

 

[Gummy Bear]

Ain't you got that thing to huffing and puffing yet madmac?

 

[ooSTURMoo]

work in progress

The first two elements:

Steel is a good material, but the wall can not be too thin. Through the walls, the tank loses its capacity.
G-TANK idea is very simple - indestructible. I did not use Plexiglas or glass tube. Everything from metal. If someone will depend on the viewfinder of the tank will be able to do it themselves (for example: plexiglass, syringe, or glass)
Here the picture is ss tank and another elements.

these are very small pieces with a diameter of 15mm. The tank is still smaller in diameter because it will be hidden in the body. Between the tank and the body will be the flow of air into the mouthpiece.

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

Excellent!!! someone who believes in survivability...I like your style ooSTURMoo I am anxiously awaiting final results...looks good so far...and as for capacity anything over 1 ml is a plus to me...2 is great and if it has more than that I would do a weasel war dance but I might look goofy (beings humans weren't meant to move that way)...

 

[ooSTURMoo]

Tank capacity depends only on the turner. The plan is for 2 ml, but the execution of thin tank walls can be difficult. We must remember that this mod is very thin, matching for example to ego.

With the tank on the heater, we are able to drain the whole tank.

for comparison, in a hybrid, as it was half of the tank, I had to refill the tank to full, to capillarity wick was better

 

[Scubabatdan]

Ok, so I got all the plumbing done, I had to resort to a clear 2 part epoxy to seal and stick the juice tube and pos wire for this prototype. Already fired it and produces ALOT of vapor. I have to re-cut the poly tube length before I can fill it and the cap will add pressure to the juice tank cap. Decided to separate these two so I could remove the mouth piece and push the entire assemble out for coil maintenance without disturbing the juice reservoir. Well here she is, still have to cut 5/16" off the tube to get the proper length.


We will see tonight how she is gonna perform.
Dan

 

[bmwzero]

Dan that looks awesome! Bout the size of a stormy tank is it?