Some homemade attys and genesis

[UA72Riddle]

@ UA72riddle. You are using 2 if the white mouthpiece Carto plugs?
Are the base and resivor leaking?

No leaking as of yet. But I have noticed that some of the condensation is getting down below the carto cap in the bottom cap, and if you dont glue the cap in to the tank, the pressure on draw pulls too much liquid out (thats in my case using 801 cart that isnt completely round leaving four corners unsealed). With the carto tip glued in place it completely seals the tank, causing a water keg type result...like a pressure on the tank. Liquid comes out a little more as you puff, and air is forced in. Keeps it from over wicking I guess.

 

[on3i]

I have been searching all over for a tutorial on how to make the genisis atty. I can't seem to find one but it looks like if I post here somebody can PM me a tutorial? I would sure love to get my hands on a tutorial.

Also, is there anybody around who sells the parts to make a genisis atty?

 

[slimest]

I have been searching all over for a tutorial on how to make the genisis atty. I can't seem to find one but it looks like if I post here somebody can PM me a tutorial? I would sure love to get my hands on a tutorial.

Also, is there anybody around who sells the parts to make a genisis atty?

Search here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/132663-all-my-mods-part1.html
All needed information there.

 

[lexi60]

Here's my wannabe GTank. Thanks to Strum and UA (I copied him)
My problem is always burnt taste.
UA has tryed to help me out here.
I've rolled 400ss from 13mm up to 30mm, tightly rolled around a 20ga needle. Loose coil and tight, 32ga kanthal, I can't get it right. Anyone see anything wrong? Any suggestions would help.
Thanks all.

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

 

[UA72Riddle]

Here's my wannabe GTank. Thanks to Strum and UA (I copied him)
My problem is always burnt taste.
UA has tryed to help me out here.
I've rolled 400ss from 13mm up to 30mm, tightly rolled around a 20ga needle. Loose coil and tight, 32ga kanthal, I can't get it right. Anyone see anything wrong? Any suggestions would help.
Thanks all.

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk

The only differences I see from your to mine are minor.

First off...your ceramic cup is opposite of mine. I put mine in upside down (which is why I broke the cup off). I put the carto rubber tip on the stem of the ceramic then pushed them in the bottom cap, so the stem of the ceramic is facing up...this is what the wick will sit in.

Second...your leads are much longer then mine. I had to make mine short because they were touching the tank. I would assume yours are as well. Might be part of your burnt taste, but I could easily be wrong. To make sure my lengths were correct, I set the tube flat on a table, then lined the the end caps up beside it where they would be if screwed on.

Third....your air hole is kinda high, but should still work. I put two holes directly across from each other just above the threads so the air flow would be directly on the coil.

Your coil looks like it is loose, and uneven.

If you can't get it to work, you can send me what you have and I will rebuild it for you the way I did mine....no charge. I think you will enjoy it very much once you get it to work!

 

[rusalka]

Uneeded info. Sorry.

 

[rusalka]

your air hole is kinda high, but should still work. I put two holes directly across from each other just above the threads so the air flow would be directly on the coil.

What is the diameter of the holes?

 

[UA72Riddle]

What is the diameter of the holes?

I used a 0,8mm bit. It was the smallest one in the dremel drill bit set.

 

[otrem]

ua7, may i ask what connector you are using? cant we use ce2's and utilize the airtube? thanks.

 

[UA72Riddle]

I'm using an old carto connector....knew all of those things would come in handy one day!

Not sure how you would be able to use a CE2 air tube....would cause a short if the mesh touched...but then again it is oxidized.....hmmmm, now you have me thinking.

 

[otrem]

wouldnt it be nice with the air passing through the center?

 

[otrem]

wont short in the mesh if the coil starts from the positive. going up then the negative.

 

[UA72Riddle]

The mesh shouldn't short because of the oxidation process...same reason wire doesn't short on the mesh. But I think the air holes directly at the coil is better than through the coil. I don't think you would get proper airflow trying to go through the mesh. You have a lot of layers of mesh, then add in the fact that it is saturated with liquid...I think you would constantly be fighting for air....if that makes sense.

 

[otrem]

the coil is actually 'floating' over the airtube. what do you think?

 

[UA72Riddle]

Possible...but the trick is finding a way to make a vertical wick "float". CE2 style I can see....but the vertical wick I would think would need support.

 

[lorderos33]

Possible...but the trick is finding a way to make a vertical wick "float". CE2 style I can see....but the vertical wick I would think would need support.

No, no...you have it all wrong....we can use magic to make them float....or maybe magnets....hmmmmmmm.

Nah, it would be horribly unstable floating by magnets...back to the drawing board, lol

 

[otrem]

the ends of coil are bolted. would that help?

 

[otrem]

my 'floating' tank is a cut-off 3ml syringe body plugged with plunger rubber. 1.5ml cap.

 

[lorderos33]

the ends of coil are bolted. would that help?

That helps, but is not necessary. I think if you put a rubber carto cap attached to the opening in the bottle and secured it with a very small zip-tie to keep it in place, you could "float" the wick easily by punching a small hole in the carto cap and rolling the wick so that it is a little snug in that hole. Then the tank could be held inplace with slight pressure in the housing and the wick would float in the coil. Just a thought.

 

[imont80]

What are you using for wire contact, srews?