I must admit I`m thinking the same, I just can`t get my genisis to wick fast enough, I`ve rolled well over a hundred wicks now all different sizes and combinations, and although when it`s working it`s fantastic, if it would only wick faster
- Status
What was your results? What experiments are you doing?
EGo need compatibility. So ULRA Atta resistance should be 1 ohm. Classic mesh has a resistance of 1 ohm to 50 mm. So when will be minus half of the two vessels, it might be enough.
You also tested this possibility?
Turbo, SMD LED's might be of interest to you. Cellphones and laptops use them for keypad lighting and status lights quite often with fiber optics. My eee pc has the LED's on the motherboard and a small clear acrylic piece that is flat on the bottom and rounded ends, which look and light as if they were the LED's themselves. The ends light up but the tube doesn't really, it just passes the light through, so there is something to consider there. Also, electronics in the tank is rather a bad idea as it doesn't need to be there and could/would contaminate the juice. And drilling another hole is not something I'd want to do myself, not through SS.
I carry mine all the time now in my front pants pocket, even the 18650 setup. Sag is sure, but I've been wearing jeans most always lately as it is so wintery. Not having a driptip helps that there is nothing to catch in pocket too. Dan said he even carries his in a shirt pocket, that's even too hardcore for me
Oh and the switch and a winter glove works ok, if I hold my finger thumb over the switch the whole time. Finding the switch with a glove is not possible.
I carry mine all the time now in my front pants pocket, even the 18650 setup. Sag is sure, but I've been wearing jeans most always lately as it is so wintery. Not having a driptip helps that there is nothing to catch in pocket too. Dan said he even carries his in a shirt pocket, that's even too hardcore for me
Oh and the switch and a winter glove works ok, if I hold my finger thumb over the switch the whole time. Finding the switch with a glove is not possible.
I did some experiments with oxidation mesh. I did 20 knots and different oxidation processes.
The only result is that if the negative lead electrically connected to the mesh (minus is connected with the top lid). So there is a glow discharge and a large spiral.
If it is not linked to drifting there. Symtom This manifests itself as fluctuations in the resistance and red spirals (including the resistance of 2.5 ohms). If anyone has this problem, as I do. Then test the oxidation process does not result.
Unfortunately, what I knew when I designed my Gensis. So I do not recommend anyone doing similar constructions.
The only result is that if the negative lead electrically connected to the mesh (minus is connected with the top lid). So there is a glow discharge and a large spiral.
If it is not linked to drifting there. Symtom This manifests itself as fluctuations in the resistance and red spirals (including the resistance of 2.5 ohms). If anyone has this problem, as I do. Then test the oxidation process does not result.
Unfortunately, what I knew when I designed my Gensis. So I do not recommend anyone doing similar constructions.
Well, a little further testing has shown that nichrome 60 oxidizes well, while nichrome 80 does NOT. This may have something to do with the iron content of nichrome 60, I dunno.
By the way, Michal, which alloy of SS mesh do you have? I have #304, the most common one I think, and it oxidizes easily. Maybe some of the other alloys don't oxidize as well. If you have something other than #304, that could possibly be your problem.
By the way, Michal, which alloy of SS mesh do you have? I have #304, the most common one I think, and it oxidizes easily. Maybe some of the other alloys don't oxidize as well. If you have something other than #304, that could possibly be your problem.
forgive my ignorance...when the few of you speak of the "ultra" are to referring to making the mesh a negative contact?
Turbo, SMD LED's might be of interest to you. Cellphones and laptops use them for keypad lighting and status lights quite often with fiber optics. My eee pc has the LED's on the motherboard and a small clear acrylic piece that is flat on the bottom and rounded ends, which look and light as if they were the LED's themselves. The ends light up but the tube doesn't really, it just passes the light through, so there is something to consider there. Also, electronics in the tank is rather a bad idea as it doesn't need to be there and could/would contaminate the juice. And drilling another hole is not something I'd want to do myself, not through SS.
I carry mine all the time now in my front pants pocket, even the 18650 setup. Sag is sure, but I've been wearing jeans most always lately as it is so wintery. Not having a driptip helps that there is nothing to catch in pocket too. Dan said he even carries his in a shirt pocket, that's even too hardcore for me
Oh and the switch and a winter glove works ok, if I hold my finger thumb over the switch the whole time. Finding the switch with a glove is not possible.
Thanks, I'll look into that. Yes 'quick', tacky to some but I like bling!
I bought this mesh:
Stainless Steel Woven Wire Mesh in A4 sheet format: 304, 316, 316L
Stainless Steel Woven Wire Mesh in A4 sheet format: 304, 316, 316L
kanthal :
ODL 53R1 - GES-ELECTRONICS
The problem with the inroads is apparent in the case of the minus pole is connected to the mesh. Otherwise everything is OK. In my construction of Genisis the minus pole can not be avoided.
I wonder ULRA, inspired pailpoe. Minus the mesh, plus no coil. Preheating ensures the mesh directly.
Uooou .... translator ... uffff ... damn language barrier ...
If it is minus connected with the mesh, the oxidation of losing the ability to isolate. So there is overheating, plus parts of spirals, drop resistance, the resistance varies, the spiral is close to bursting plus links.
I do not know how to explain Translator. This is what my English is not enough.
Try it. Join minus and the top cover.
Last edited:
Thats awesome weapon....thanks! Where did you find this?
riddle: Make sure to connect the resistor to the positive (longer) leg...I believe all the madvapes leds come with a 470
*found this:
This helped me a ton. hope it is beneficial to you as well
RAIDY : I would like very much. But the design I used it is not possible. - passes through the body. It is one piece. So it is impossible to isolate the mesh. I tried to isolate the paper, mesh, and the body. But it is not enough space. My Genisis is very small.
This is one of the smallest genisis i ever made. The atty has a diameter from only 6mm outside. But the mesh is isolated in a glasse hole.
And this is the smallest complete atty i ever made:
All you need a fingers like a howdie
And this is the smallest complete atty i ever made:
All you need a fingers like a howdie
Last edited:
Raidy :
But you're in Gensis Professional (inventor). And to all my body is made of steel. So mesh isolation from the body is impossible. Respectively possible but difficult. If you want to have at least 2 mm thick mesh. I can make a bigger hole mesh.
Now that is almost too small, especially if the original metal piece from the lighter is the mouthpiece.
Raidy, thank you, I am one of many happy users of Genisis, you can see here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-homemade-attys-genesis-230.html#post2670365
Thanks again to you.
But these days that you are participating in the forum again, I would like to ask you something I always wanted to ask in your thread All my mods part 1, and it is exactly this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/132663-all-my-mods-part1-60.html#post2140577
Raidy, Could you please explain this about:
The magic word is saturation. ppm of liquid / ccm of Vapour.
Thx...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-homemade-attys-genesis-230.html#post2670365
Thanks again to you.
But these days that you are participating in the forum again, I would like to ask you something I always wanted to ask in your thread All my mods part 1, and it is exactly this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/132663-all-my-mods-part1-60.html#post2140577
Raidy, Could you please explain this about:
The magic word is saturation. ppm of liquid / ccm of Vapour.
Thx...
michal.jansto - is it possible to make a very basic ULRA (Ultra Low Resistance Atomizer) that works? I don't think this idea has really been explored as much as it could be... partly because Pailpoe has dominated the discussion of it with his very hi-tech (and very brilliant) circuit boards and software etc. But I for one would be interested in a simple 'throw-away' ULRA as a possible alternative to the genisis design.
Yes, I see it. Pailpoe accede to MODULRA very brilliantly. Great districts, professional finish. Therefore I have with him MODULRA already ordered.
But like you, I miss ULRA atomizer for traditional batteries. The biggest problem I have with PCBs battery ego (or 18650). You have to isolate the battery resistance of 1 ohm. So I'm looking for technical solutions (materials) that such resistance would have to 1cm.
- Status
Similar threads
