Some homemade attys and genesis

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u_couple

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What was your results? What experiments are you doing?

EGo need compatibility. So ULRA Atta resistance should be 1 ohm. Classic mesh has a resistance of 1 ohm to 50 mm. So when will be minus half of the two vessels, it might be enough.

You also tested this possibility?

I also have to state here that my genisis works perfectly with regards to heating the coil, and making vapour, the "only" problem I have is with wicking !!! I like to take huge draws for maximum TH and vapour (maybe 7 seconds per draw), this seems to completely use up any juice that is on the wick, to the point that it is bone dry..... Subsequently, I then have to wait a few seconds for the wick to draw up some more liquid before I can take another draw.

In testing, I have only tried to improve the wicking, by trying different size holes with differing widths of mesh, I have tried 200 325 and 400 mesh, all from 14mm strips, up to 30mm strips, nothing seems to wick fast enough for the way I smoke ! I have tried taking shorter drags (3 or 4 seconds per drag) but it just makes me smoke quicker which again results in a dry wick after a few drags. Maybe I need a little pump inside the chamber to pump liquid up the wick when needed:laugh:
 

KYFlyer67

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I also have to state here that my genisis works perfectly with regards to heating the coil, and making vapour, the "only" problem I have is with wicking !!! I like to take huge draws for maximum TH and vapour (maybe 7 seconds per draw), this seems to completely use up any juice that is on the wick, to the point that it is bone dry..... Subsequently, I then have to wait a few seconds for the wick to draw up some more liquid before I can take another draw.

In testing, I have only tried to improve the wicking, by trying different size holes with differing widths of mesh, I have tried 200 325 and 400 mesh, all from 14mm strips, up to 30mm strips, nothing seems to wick fast enough for the way I smoke ! I have tried taking shorter drags (3 or 4 seconds per drag) but it just makes me smoke quicker which again results in a dry wick after a few drags. Maybe I need a little pump inside the chamber to pump liquid up the wick when needed:laugh:

I know some people are opposed to it, but you can put a couple strands of silica wick in the center of the SS mesh wick for improved feeding.
 

nickf41680

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I know some people are opposed to it, but you can put a couple strands of silica wick in the center of the SS mesh wick for improved feeding.

I has just mentioned that a couple days ago when I assembled mine... 25mm 400 mesh and a wick from an e2.. It does wick faster... But IMO still not fast enough....

After all the trouble and time I have gone through I still prefer to drip.... Don't get me wrong the genesis works I just think I switch up flavors to much.... Now if I had about 5-6 genisis' than I would b golden lol


Sent from somewhere in my daily travels....
 

KYFlyer67

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I bought this mesh:
Stainless Steel Woven Wire Mesh in A4 sheet format: 304, 316, 316L
Stainless Steel Woven Wire Mesh in A4 sheet format: 304, 316, 316L

kanthal :
ODL 53R1 - GES-ELECTRONICS

The problem with the inroads is apparent in the case of the minus pole is connected to the mesh. Otherwise everything is OK. In my construction of Genisis the minus pole can not be avoided.



I wonder ULRA, inspired pailpoe. Minus the mesh, plus no coil. Preheating ensures the mesh directly.

The descriptions from those links don't state which SS alloy. They do state on another page that they supply 430, 304, 304L, 321, 316 and 316L alloys. I know that 304 oxidizes well and I suspect 304L is ok. I don't know about the others.
 

Brazilleon

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Hey everyone..

Since I last posted to this thread I have bought an EgoT system to try out as an all day work solution.
But I have to say, I am back to my hybrid Genisis and prefer it so much more.
The tank started amazingly but after one day of use, the bad taste started that everyone talks about and not a very pleasant vaping experience as a whole.

I also changed up another variable in my vaping, I bought a bunch of tastyvapor juice. It is pretty amazing in taste and I like it a lot. But I do suspect this juice is playing a large part of my problems.

I get a good decent days vaping on the Gensis with a fresh wrap of kanthal. But omg, the crud builds up super fast with this liquid..
Here's a pic after a days vape (I must add, the tastiest, cleanest, days vape).
Untitled | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
But, I have come to the conclusion that spending 5 mins per evening adding new Kanthal is so much more less of a chore than the constant fiddling and taste frustration the tank gave me throughout the day.
Raidy is a master, thanks for such a wonderful solution.
POC I love the hybrid, it's a beautiful device, I'll get that postcard to you soon my friend.
Well, time to change my kanthal for another days full flavor vaping.
 

u_couple

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i recommend you a longer meshroll. My meshrolls are about 3-5mm longer, above the coil...

Are your meshrolls rolled tighly? If yes you have to loose them up little bit..

I have also tried longer meshrolls, right up to 10 mm above the coil, still not wicking fast enough, and also I have tried the loose rolls and tight rolls, no joy :(

I`ve never tried the "paper" method, can anyone enlighten me ? Is it the wicking material from a carto?
 

Brazilleon

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Not burn.
It's paper, fill cartomizers Green Smoke (E9 ecig.com). It is built on the heat. Paper cartomizer one, just 30 genisis Atta. I'm looking for local sources.
If necessary. suitable material.
In any case, it is better than incandesce mesh.
Did you find any local sources? What type of paper is this exactly MJ? Do theses Green smokes use a special paper or is it the standard cart filler? Which if it is, I'll stay away from.
Or is it cigarette rolling paper?
I can appreciate the thinking behind it and if the 'paper' is moist enough it shouldn't burn? But just not quite sure what type to try?
 
Brazilleon:
we do not have a local source. Testing a few fabrics that I use. I'm looking forward.

The materials we use, looks like a non-woven fabric (batting). Typically it can be found in cartomizers. Maybe in 510 cartomizers are two types of material. One that holds a liquid and which is wrapped spiral. That's it. The inner layer separates the whorls from the wool.

Ufff, it's hard to translate ... not even Google knows what to do.
 
Brazilleon:

It should be noted that the council was for those who experience the same problems as the oxidation of me.
Not for, satisfied smokers Genisis. I have the problems of men alone. I suggested the wrong originally designed. It never occurred to me that the conductive connection between the lower and mid caps may affect the strength and oxidation.
 

WillyB

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Raidy :
But you're in Gensis Professional (inventor). And to all my body is made of steel. So mesh isolation from the body is impossible. Respectively possible but difficult. If you want to have at least 2 mm thick mesh. I can make a bigger hole mesh.

If you note he said:
I prefer using a glastube inside my genisis

And looking at this pic the mesh looks like it's in glass tube.

fz2dc0fevy7j5.jpg


As far as your paper/cloth this is inside a Bloog carto (folks seem to like them).

100_0108.jpg


That tube may work well for you under your coil. and may also work, depending on the I.D., as an insulator through your metal top piece (you would probably have to make the hole bigger).
 

Brazilleon

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Brazilleon:

It should be noted that the council was for those who experience the same problems as the oxidation of me.
Not for, satisfied smokers Genisis. I have the problems of men alone. I suggested the wrong originally designed. It never occurred to me that the conductive connection between the lower and mid caps may affect the strength and oxidation.

Thanks MJ all clear now.
I pulled a 510 cartomizer apart and found the braided rope in the centre. This slides over the 2mm Mesh and makes a really nice bridge between the coils and the mesh. It also seems to stay very moist and with no signs of glowing coils or shorting. It also helps preventing the silver wire from accidently contacting the mesh.
But I have just read on and seen the images willy posted. It's the centre tube I have used. It perfectly fits.
But MJ, I noticed you were referring to the batting on the left?
I have only taken a sample vape and it tastes clean and certainly cleaner than my brand new ego tank.
But I guess introducing this element is defeating the whole purpose of the genisis' clean vaping. But I am up for giving it a whirl.
Been vaping 510 blue foam mods for over a year, so a little testing won't be too bad. 8)
Now I need to go hunting the forum and find out what this rope core is all about and if it's a bad idea.
 
But I guess introducing this element is defeating the whole purpose of the genisis' clean vaping. But I am up for giving it a whirl.

Yes, it is re-biological material. Prone to rapid degradation. Yes, I know.
On the other hand, the oxidation process is also not clear. The liquid is released flakes of rust. Liquid stains in the dark. Changing the taste. Deteriorating the mesh absorbency.

So oxidation is not 100% solution. Therefore, looking for alternatives.
 

Brazilleon

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Just trying the paper from the cartomizer. I washed and dried it and it is very paper like. Using certainly seems to prevent the red glows. Looks pretty clean too.
The oxidation does darken my juice. If I fill my tank up with juice, by the time I've vaped 2/3 of the it, it has become noticeably darker.

I'll let you know how the paper goes.
 

Turbo

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Just trying the paper from the cartomizer. I washed and dried it and it is very paper like. Using certainly seems to prevent the red glows. Looks pretty clean too.
The oxidation does darken my juice. If I fill my tank up with juice, by the time I've vaped 2/3 of the it, it has become noticeably darker.

I'll let you know how the paper goes.

The first material you used, the woven tube, is what I would call the carto 'sock'. Do let us know your thoughts on the paper vs sock. I guess if it burns or degrades one can see it w/ the Genisis setup being that everything is accessible, unlike a carto where they burned w/o knowing..
 

asdaq

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I would say the color change is more from the gunk buildup on the coil or wick dissolving than the oxidation of the mesh itself. A clean and fresh setup won't discolor like an aged one will, at least from what I notice. Using a sock or paper is fine if it is constantly wet, but if it dries then it will burn too, as many have seen in cartos. I too am currently happiest keeping the flammable materials down to just juice.
 
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