Some homemade attys and genesis

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Sputnik

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1) acrylic tubes do not fracture because the disk + o'ring fits very tight, that's no good, but is not the reason. The tubes fractures because it happend, is a characteristic of extruded plexiglas, the manufacturer told me that, even before I bought the tubes, this material can fracture by being in contact with many liquids, and it seems that our e-liquids are within that group, even if nothing is doing pressure over the acrylic. The acrylic tubes works great but there are not for ever, because of that we must think in spare tubes.


Also, they may crack if you have nicked the edge while cutting, have done a poor job or used the wrong tool, or too much pressure to cut it and produced hairline invisible cracks that make a great start for a bigger one. To help prevent cracking due to these reasons you can flame polish the edges. It must be flame polished, mechanical polishing will do nothing to prevent cracking. It takes practice to get a good flame polished edge. Cast acrylic can crack too, but usually due to one of the above reasons. The stresses induced in extruded material when extruded give it an inherent tendency to do so, even when all precautions are taken.


Turbo, acrylic is by far the best transparent material for this purpose. Well, that's readily available to us for a reasonable cost. there are many engineering plastics that would fit the bill, but they are either hard to get, or very prohibitively expensive. If you wanted an opaque tank, then there are better options. There are some really slick, machinable, transparent glass/plastic/ceramic compounds that are quite tough as well as elastic enough that would be ideal, but your talking an $1800 tank tube.
 

Quick1

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Turbo, acrylic is by far the best transparent material for this purpose. Well, that's readily available to us for a reasonable cost. there are many engineering plastics that would fit the bill, but they are either hard to get, or very prohibitively expensive. If you wanted an opaque tank, then there are better options. There are some really slick, machinable, transparent glass/plastic/ceramic compounds that are quite tough as well as elastic enough that would be ideal, but your talking an $1800 tank tube.

How about polycarbonate?

And what would you think about epoxy-ing flexible PVC tubing to the aluminum cap?
 

Sputnik

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Polycarbonate is very brittle, think of CD/Cassette cases!! If you are referring to the "rubbery" type PVC, forget about it. Epoxy will not bond to it for long.

You could try a water based urethane like Gorilla glue for that. They have a fast, few minute version out now. Only thing is it expands, and you will need to be quick cleaning the excess off. Also, Im not sure of the compatibility of it with nicquids or if it will leech nasties. Best to keep it out of contact with liquid if you try it.

Or, you could try a rubberized CA (super glue). Just allow it to cure and ventilate well before using.
 

Quick1

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Yes, the "rubbery" type PVC. I had a tube of it I used for a while. It was 5/8" ID so it stretched over the bottom cap. Nothing else holding it on. It was great but would have come off if I had dropped it or put any sideways pressure on the drip tip/mouthpiece. It was 1/8" wall thickness so it was reasonably rigid in a 3/4" length (and not very aesthetic sticking out past the caps. Definitely fracture and impact proof. Food grade.
 

asdaq

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I just changed out syringe tubing from my 1st genisis to plexi yesterday, that stuff is just too soft for this. While vinyl stretches, it also has memory effects from the stretching and hardens over time. From aquarium experiences it wasn't really reusable for air pump fittings and it seemed as though it had dried out and stiffened.
 

Rock Woman

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Here is an idea for replacement tubes from standard US diameters, for the Hybrid Genisis. Acrylic tube can be bent and even blown into a bubble with gentle heat from a heat gun. It's done for aquarium tubes all the time. So we may be able to widen the end of a tube that is a little too small by heating just the very end part evenly with a heat gun while pushing it down onto the hybrid metal end ring. No O ring on there at the time, of course. It should work with acrylic but it probably won't work with polycarbonate. I have acrylic tube on the way but not a disassembled Hybrid Genisis to try this on. Anyone willing to give it a shot?
 

Dave_uk

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you can flame polish the edges

As long as there is never any alcohol in the juice ...lol

Any way...

After much experimentation, some with resounding failure but plenty of swarf I now almost firmly believe that O rings on the juice holding section are not the best method..

Turning down the acrylic to fit into the base and top section (maybe using aquarium grade silicon as the sealant / adhesive) is the strongest method.
 

asdaq

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WeaponX, I first expanded the original to 1.5mm, wasn't right, so I plugged the original and went with a 1.5 lower hole and it is just right.

Krythis, if the transaction went through, then the ball is rolling. It took me about 7 days, I believe USA is about 10. IThe whole process feels very old fashioned, but you should get it.
 

Krythis

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Krythis, if the transaction went through, then the ball is rolling. It took me about 7 days, I believe USA is about 10. IThe whole process feels very old fashioned, but you should get it.

My PayPal account had my old address at the time of purchase. I wanted to make sure it was sent to the address in the order and not PayPal receipt. So hopefully it doesn't get shipped from the UK to 1/2 mile down the road, then back to the UK, and finally back to my new place. Since that's a possibility I figured I would just order some state side and worse case scenario I have extra material(not the first time lol).
 

Turbo

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So I drilled the second hole...and it still seems pretty tight. After some digging, I came across the post where poc had drilled both of his out to 0,93mm. Has anyone else done this?

'jensb' drills a 1mm hole 6mm from the bottom, directly across from the other hole. I did the same. Everyone likes a different draw so start small and go up in small increments from that.
 

Quick1

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TheMeshCompany just replied to my second email stating they sent the package to the address I sent in the first email. Wish they had an automated email for shipping and replied to my original inquiry...but the mesh is on it's way which is all that matters :)

Not only that, but they often (for first time buyers?) send extra sheets. Even more than the buy 2 get 3 :)
 

weaponX

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Drilled out the second hole to 0,93mm(#63)...can't fully test it yet cause im in the middle of a rebuild, but from what I can test by cupping it against the palm of my hand it seems good.

for thoes of you with a 510 connection, today I realized that the positive connection pops in and out fairly easily. This made the soldering process go much much smoother. The first attempt was with the 510 assembled, and that wasnt easy. Dont know if this is common knowledge around here, but delightful news for me! lol
 

Quick1

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for thoes of you with a 510 connection, today I realized that the positive connection pops in and out fairly easily. This made the soldering process go much much smoother. The first attempt was with the 510 assembled, and that wasnt easy. Dont know if this is common knowledge around here, but delightful news for me! lol

Well, fairly common knowledge... You have to be careful to make sure that the insulating gasket is in tact and seated properly when putting the positive pin back in. Otherwise you will have a short. Another thing about those is that they draw air through little holes in/just above the threads. Good idea to fill the well down there with silicone or whatever to seal it.
 
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