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Google translate doesn't seem to be working w/ this site on Chrome... what's the deal w/ it? I'd be in more than likely for $35 USD
** you gave some pretty good info already. So, we can use this on our Hybrids??
I second that!
also since we've all been bouncing around english, polish, and french forums, I installed this in firefox:
Google Toolbar
Pretty sure theyve got it for chrome too....you dont have to copy and paste anything, just hit a button.
Once you use it the first time and set the language it will do it automatically.
Its still not perfect english...but enough for me to grasp
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Thanks asdaq and you too Gummy Bear. I just received an order from Digi-KJey yesterday and got some nice stainless steel swicthes with Dome. but good to know. Has anyone else triued to put a different type of button on their Genisis?
thanks again Guys
Well, 'traderdan' did the MOSFET/resistor/MadVapes switch. If you're game for tiny soldering than you could do it.
By the way, had my positive wire resoldered to give more room to silicone around, and exchanged my 22g wire for 26g to the contact plate today.
I just installed this and it asked me to restart firefox but don't know where it is...lol... same thing happened w/ the vaping toolbar thing that's floating around. Don't see it. (tried it w/ Chrome first)
gauge of the wire can make a difference in hybrid performance? Or its just for fitting issue? Its pretty tight inside soo big wire is hard to fit?
Turbo, in tools>addons you can see if it is there and even explore its' own options, if it has them. In view>toolbars make sure it is checked, and in view>toolbars>customize you can rearrange where it is, and all other toolbars for that matter.
JimmyB, it is a short piece so not so critical, 24-28AWG should be fine, larger wire is too cramped with the battery contact plate.
JimmyB, it is a short piece so not so critical, 24-28AWG should be fine, larger wire is too cramped with the battery contact plate.
Aw right - i'm getting kind a stupid about my hybrid - sometimes is working properly, sometimes is not.. soo i will buy a syringe today and replace the brass conenctors. Maybe this will help 
Just the needles... Dbam O Zdrowie has the best selection in stock I've found, if it is in your part of the country. That flaky sometimes working behavior is often loose kanthal.
Be careful when soldering 510 connects still assembled. If you keep the iron on it too long you can easily overheat it and melt the insulator. Once you melt it and create a short that connector's pretty much shot. I always remove the center post, solder, and reinstall. But that's for bottom feeders - haven't tried my hands at a wicking mod yet.
For my next rebuild I'm considering needle stock for my leads from the connector through the tank. 304 SS. Anything difficult or different soldering SS to brass? I've managed to successfully solder copper rod and silver rod to the brass. Is it going to be pretty much the same thing?
SS doesn't solder well, Scubabatdan said flux with I believe hydrochloric acid would do it, that I don't have. l3oertjie's copper strand wrapped around and then coated with silver solder does very well though, til you get some of that flux Also, if you put one tube in a carto positive stem, the job is half done.
Also, if you put one tube in a carto positive stem, the job is half done.Have to get hydrochloric acid flux. Apparently the silver solder I already have is appropriate. No room for copper wrapping inside the 510 connector when soldering the negative to the inner wall. Have to try bending the SS tubing as well. The silver rod is working quite well but I'm thinking of trying those connectors you have.
Amazon.com: Du-Bro 915 Mini E/Z Connector (12-Pack): Industrial & Scientific
and I figure the SS tubing would be the ultimate in rigid/permanent rods/leads. The only risky part I can think of is the heat that will be required to solder the kanthal connectors into the tubing at the top. I would use shrink wrap to insulate the hypo tubing through the top cap. The kanthal connectors have to be soldered on with it completely assembled. So far the shrink wrap I use has held up to the heat of soldering my connectors onto silver wire (it sort of melts a bit but it doesn't char or vaporize and remains intact) but I figure it will take a bit more soldering to the SS.
Amazon.com: Du-Bro 915 Mini E/Z Connector (12-Pack): Industrial & Scientific
and I figure the SS tubing would be the ultimate in rigid/permanent rods/leads. The only risky part I can think of is the heat that will be required to solder the kanthal connectors into the tubing at the top. I would use shrink wrap to insulate the hypo tubing through the top cap. The kanthal connectors have to be soldered on with it completely assembled. So far the shrink wrap I use has held up to the heat of soldering my connectors onto silver wire (it sort of melts a bit but it doesn't char or vaporize and remains intact) but I figure it will take a bit more soldering to the SS.
I put one in the center tube and one on the inside wall. There's still room for heatshrink over the center tube and the insulator too. It's just one tiny strand around the needle, and you can crimp it flatter too. If you want to do a top and bottom pre-assembly, which it sounds like you need, you can use 16G in the bottom part and 18G in the top. The two slide into each other quite well and maintain good contact in use. With several experiments, that is my method of choice right now, although there is a risk that the smaller needle could push down too far, so a nother piece of 18G inside the bottom 16G would be a fix, but it hasn't happened yet.
I was just planning on a single tube.
If you look at the connectors they have a nipple, then a cylinder that has a threaded hole in the top and a hole in the side. The side hole would go unused. Assembly would go as follows:
Bend tubing appropriately (it's not a straight shot from 510 connector positions to holes in top cap)
Solder tube in center post of 510 connector.
Solder tube to inner side of 510 connector barrel.
Fill inside connector well with silicone sealer flush with surface of bottom cap.
Shrink tubing at top of tubes (only the 5 mm where it goes through top cap).
Install acrylic tank cylinder on bottom cap (probably going to try epoxy or that ruberized CA this time).
Install top cap (with tubing sticking up through it insulated from the top cap with the shrink wrap).
Trim ss tubing appropriately. (negative to 1 or 2 mm above top cap and positive to maybe 4 or 5 mm above top cap).
Insert connector nipples into tubing and solder (probably pre-tin both inside tube and connector nipple first).
The holes in the top cap for the leads are about 2.2 - 2.5 mm diameter. I'm planning on 15 gauge stainless hypodermic tubing. I figure that should give an almost snug fit with the shrink wrap around it. I need to check the inner diameter with the diameter of the connector nipple.
If you look at the connectors they have a nipple, then a cylinder that has a threaded hole in the top and a hole in the side. The side hole would go unused. Assembly would go as follows:
Bend tubing appropriately (it's not a straight shot from 510 connector positions to holes in top cap)
Solder tube in center post of 510 connector.
Solder tube to inner side of 510 connector barrel.
Fill inside connector well with silicone sealer flush with surface of bottom cap.
Shrink tubing at top of tubes (only the 5 mm where it goes through top cap).
Install acrylic tank cylinder on bottom cap (probably going to try epoxy or that ruberized CA this time).
Install top cap (with tubing sticking up through it insulated from the top cap with the shrink wrap).
Trim ss tubing appropriately. (negative to 1 or 2 mm above top cap and positive to maybe 4 or 5 mm above top cap).
Insert connector nipples into tubing and solder (probably pre-tin both inside tube and connector nipple first).
The holes in the top cap for the leads are about 2.2 - 2.5 mm diameter. I'm planning on 15 gauge stainless hypodermic tubing. I figure that should give an almost snug fit with the shrink wrap around it. I need to check the inner diameter with the diameter of the connector nipple.
I looked there and it's not there...strange. My 'view toolbars' is check too.
Correct, SS doesnt solder well at all. It takes a lot of heat as well. A higher wattage soldering iron, or a small butane/propane torch is usually required, along with silver solder for safety. A torch may not be necessary considering how small the parts are and do not have a significant thermal impact. Silver solder is your best bet for easy of doing. Scuff/sand and clean the SS well. It may take a bit of practice to get it right.
Stay away from using Acid Core solder or flux for this application. As it is heated, some nasty chemicals/gasses are released, and these can vent from the solder well after youve cleaned it as well as you possibly can. This is why acid core solder is not used on electronics, due to the fact that it will ALWAYS, contain these substances and ALWAYS be corrosive. If it continues to be corrosive after thorough cleaning on electronic devices, then im sure it will be in your atty as well and I dont think you want to be vaping chlorine gas, zinc chloride and whatever else may gas out from acid core solder/acid flux. Stick with a good, preferably liquid, rosin flux and silver solder.
Stay away from using Acid Core solder or flux for this application. As it is heated, some nasty chemicals/gasses are released, and these can vent from the solder well after youve cleaned it as well as you possibly can. This is why acid core solder is not used on electronics, due to the fact that it will ALWAYS, contain these substances and ALWAYS be corrosive. If it continues to be corrosive after thorough cleaning on electronic devices, then im sure it will be in your atty as well and I dont think you want to be vaping chlorine gas, zinc chloride and whatever else may gas out from acid core solder/acid flux. Stick with a good, preferably liquid, rosin flux and silver solder.
Well that is a bummer about the acid. Scuffing up and getting solder all the way around helps, as I remember from the suckaton. Also filing down the tip of a needle so that it isn't sharp but still has the tip, bending over the tip makes a small hook without changing the OD, which serves as an anchor for copper and/or solder. Quick, if you are going to use 15G, it may not make it into the positive post. Also, light bending is OK, but not like Persis did, it creases too easily.
Yea, Im not 100% sure about how much gassing out goes on over time. Im mainly basing that off of electronics experience and the effects acid flux has on them. So, in light of that, I personally wouldnt want to breathe it.
Well, now i'm really close to the point where I open my window and throw this bloody mod far away 
I really dont know where is my problem. It seems like my heating elements are not getting enough power to vaporize the liquid efficiently. Whats your power output at the end of the + & minus wires with wick & kanthal in place? My battery is atm ~3.7v & at the end of the wires with kanthal & mesh i have around ~3v. With kanthal & mesh off voltage is exactly the same like on battery. I'm getting really stupid now and.. dunno what is wrong. I have take my brass connectors off, cant find proper gauge needles in my town :/ Found 1.2mm but its too tight. Well... help
I really dont know where is my problem. It seems like my heating elements are not getting enough power to vaporize the liquid efficiently. Whats your power output at the end of the + & minus wires with wick & kanthal in place? My battery is atm ~3.7v & at the end of the wires with kanthal & mesh i have around ~3v. With kanthal & mesh off voltage is exactly the same like on battery. I'm getting really stupid now and.. dunno what is wrong. I have take my brass connectors off, cant find proper gauge needles in my town :/ Found 1.2mm but its too tight. Well... help
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