Some simple battery questions...

[GoBlue88]

...from a simple man.

A)can you exclusively charge your 18650 batteries in a mod with removable batteries using the charging port on a device like the IPV d2 or or the sig 75? Thus circumventing the need to get a battery charger.

B)Do I need to be concerned about amp draw on my 18650 batteries on a regulated mod like those mentioned above?

C)are VTC 4s good enough for running around 75 watts (they seem to have a great reputation around these parts)

Thanks in advance for the responses.

 

[dc99]

While you can use the onboard charging I never do. A good charger is well worth the few bucks you invest. Yes you do need to pay attention to what battery you use in regulated mods. Same rules apply. A lot of people like the VCT4s. Personally Im more of a fan of the samsungs and LGs. Im running the LG HD2 in my IPV D2 and IPV4. They have really impressed me so far

 

[roxynoodle]

My opinion:

A). Yes, but I have 2 concerns with doing so. One is that if anything goes wrong charging, you will lose your mod, most likely. My charger is cheaper than my mods. And second, it may cause your USB port to become loose or break over time. More a problem for chips that can be upgraded though.

B). I'm going with yes. Chips are supposed to shut down when the amp draw exceeds what the battery can provide, but I've seen that fail. I've seen batteries that weren't up to the task vent in a regulated mod. One was a 5A battery someone was trying to run at 60W.

C). Sony vtc4s are probably your best bet for amp draw and longevity between charges. That being said, I would probably use one of my dual battery Sig 100W mods instead of my ipv D2 for 75W.

 

[Baditude]

1 - My philosophy: Use the right tool for the job. Buy a proper box battery charger for charging external batteries.

2 - Why High Drain Batteries?

3 - Yes, authentic VTC4's are probably the best all-around, general purpose battery available to vapers.

 

[GoBlue88]

The consensus here appears that I do need to be concerned about amp draw, but how to do so? I'm going to be using a regulated mod and adjusting wattage, so voltage is set for me.

Do I just need to ramp up the wattage slowly and keep recalculating how the displayed voltage and the known resistance of the coil impact current, and ensure that current never goes above 20 amps?

 

[anthonyjl]

The consensus here appears that I do need to be concerned about amp draw, but how to do so? I'm going to be using a regulated mod and adjusting wattage, so voltage is set for me.

Do I just need to ramp up the wattage slowly and keep recalculating how the displayed voltage and the known resistance of the coil impact current, and ensure that current never goes above 20 amps?

I simply can't help you. Your avatar is offensive sir! GO BUCKEYES!!!!

 

[TorontoOntario]

If you use the right batteries in a regulated box you will be fine

 

[GoBlue88]

I simply can't help you. Your avatar is offensive sir! GO BUCKEYES!!!!

Wouldn't use your advice anyway

 

[GoBlue88]

If you use the right batteries in a regulated box you will be fine

Can you expand on that?

 

[IMFire3605]

Basically, just like with a mechanical, use an Ohm's Law calculator. Input your coil resistance, and your maximum wattage you will pull, example 0.5ohm Subtank on a 60watt mod, Voltage will be around 5.48 volts, amp pull should be 10.95amps, being the mod is pulling amps to convert to voltage above what the battery normally can do, here 1.28volts, add another 5amps safety margin, total amps 15.95amps, VTC4 is 30amps Continous, 14 spare amps you are fine

 

[GoBlue88]

Basically, just like with a mechanical, use an Ohm's Law calculator. Input your coil resistance, and your maximum wattage you will pull, example 0.5ohm Subtank on a 60watt mod, Voltage will be around 5.48 volts, amp pull should be 10.95amps, being the mod is pulling amps to convert to voltage above what the battery normally can do, here 1.28volts, add another 5amps safety margin, total amps 15.95amps, VTC4 is 30amps Continous, 14 spare amps you are fine

Groovy, looks straight to me. I'll just make sure to do some hand calcs and slowly up the wattage as well.

Any opinion on charging exclusively through the port on the side of the device, rather than an external charger? This would be for my occasional use cloud chucking home device, (like once a week or two use). So it would be nice if I could circumvent buying an external charger.

 

[IMFire3605]

I suggest not doing so often, but until you can afford an external charger you can, just monitor the mod during the whole charging cycle and check the battery doesn't get over a few degrees above room temperature. Internal chargers generally aren't as smart or accurate as a quality external charger like a Nitecore or Xtar, and been known to fail, "CAUTION" be extremely extremely careful with the IPV charge port, they are pretty notorious for being unreliable and failure. Thus why everyone suggests the right charger for the right job .

 

[GeorgeS]

A) Yes. I only use my external charger for "bulking up" on spare pre-charged batteries and for mods which don't have a USB charge option.

Granted some inexpensive and cheaply built (read: cheap clones) may have less robust USB ports which may break after continued use. However if you think of ALL the portable electronics on the market today which use USB charging, many of which have MUCH more battery/voltage capacity then a single 18650 (and are regularly charged by millions if not BILLIONS of users every day) there really is no issue here to be concerned with.

B) Yes again. Ohms law is your friend. The battery models that others have recommended ought to work fine in the mods that you mentioned. Stick with batteries from the major OEM's (Samsung and LG are two) that are sold by reputable sellers. I bought mine from www.illuminationsupply.com.

C) VTC4's are fine for what you are planning on using them for. Again stick with reputable sellers.

 

[GoBlue88]

Do regulated mods use a set current? In terms of hand calcs I won't know the voltage that my mod will use even with using an ohm meter and knowing my wattage, because there are two un-fixed variables (V and I in the wattage=V*I equation).

So wouldn't that mean that I can't calc for current draw on my mod without firing it up at low wattage and slowly stepping up?

 

[GoBlue88]

Actually after doing some math I think I can directly compute the amps drawn using
Watt=V*I
V=IR

I=squareroot(watt/R)

So for a VTC4 at 30 amps I wouldn't want to go below
.08 ohms at 75 watts.

 

[Papillon61]

I haven't worked out your calculation but just wanted to say - make sure to leave some headroom. The real amps on batteries are neven what the manufacturers claim.

 

[ian-field]

...from a simple man.

A)can you exclusively charge your 18650 batteries in a mod with removable batteries using the charging port on a device like the IPV d2 or or the sig 75? Thus circumventing the need to get a battery charger.

B)Do I need to be concerned about amp draw on my 18650 batteries on a regulated mod like those mentioned above?

C)are VTC 4s good enough for running around 75 watts (they seem to have a great reputation around these parts)

Thanks in advance for the responses.

I've just posted a thread elsewhere to mention that I recently acquired some Samsung ICR18650-28A cells which charge at 4.3V instead of the usual 4.2V - if there's 4.3V cells, there must also be 4.3V chargers.

Its never a bad idea to do a bit of research into the parts you have, and make sure you know their specifications.

I don't know if/how dangerous charging a 4.2V cell at 4.3V actually is - but I'm quite prepared to let someone else blow themselves up and report back on their findings.

 

[IMFire3605]

Do regulated mods use a set current? In terms of hand calcs I won't know the voltage that my mod will use even with using an ohm meter and knowing my wattage, because there are two un-fixed variables (V and I in the wattage=V*I equation).

So wouldn't that mean that I can't calc for current draw on my mod without firing it up at low wattage and slowly stepping up?

Vaping Calculators -> Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Even has an Ohm's Law calculator

And as I stated above, with a VV/VW regulated mod, don't forget to add in an extra 3 to 6amps safety buffer, 4.2v fully charged battery to get to 5.3v for example above, assuming 1amp extra per volt, as the battery discharges, more amps needed until down to say around 3.6 or 3.7 left in the battery, the amp draw to convert to volts increases as well, so could be in the range of 1 to 10 extra amps for that purpose alone.

 

[MotoMudder]

Hey Blue, Check this:
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Has tabs for wrapping, ohms law, battery drain ect.

EDIT
Got beat

 

[edyle]

The consensus here appears that I do need to be concerned about amp draw, but how to do so? I'm going to be using a regulated mod and adjusting wattage, so voltage is set for me.

Do I just need to ramp up the wattage slowly and keep recalculating how the displayed voltage and the known resistance of the coil impact current, and ensure that current never goes above 20 amps?

how to do so:
just use a battery that can handle the maximum the mod can possibly need.
a 50 watt mod will not attempt to draw 100 watts (continuous) from your battery.
for calculations/estimations use 3 volts as the battery voltage because that would be the cutoff voltage that the mod will accept.