Something that has been troubling me about vv and atties.

[Wooden indian]

So, I put together my first vv mod (using the ncp chip) and it shuts down when I use a 3.7 resistance atty, even at 4.6v.

The HV atties work well, but I have to turn the voltage way up to a less desirable vape.
Now, I did order the "evercool chip" from texas instruments, but I would still like to get this one running well.

Suggestions?

 

[Wooden indian]

Also, i did search the forum for an answer but got soooo many results that it was the old needle in a haystack bit.
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Dalton63841]

When you ohm out the atties on a multimeter, what do they read? Also, is the reg heatsinked at all? The NCP chips are linear and will shut down when they get hot.

 

[Wooden indian]

Yes, they are heatsinked ( shuts down so fast it barely gets warm, though). Since I typed this, it's also shutting down in my 4.1 ohm atty. Atties I've tried range from 3.5 to 4.3. Sometimes it'll last for 10 minutes. Sometimes 1 second.

 

[Wooden indian]

I also removed the LED and voltage display during trouble shooting. No change.
It's always disappointing when you go above and beyond on a project to ave these problems i the end. All wire is 22, switches rated at 5A, box painted with automotive grade spray, blue LED, voltage display, pot adjustable through small hole on the box side.

Put a lot of work into this one. Talk about a bummer. LOL

 

[Dalton63841]

At what voltage range are they shutting down. Turning the voltage UP to stop shutting down is counter-intuitive... Turning the voltage up would increase the amperage and increase the likelihood of thermal shutdown.

 

[Wooden indian]

Agreed on it being counter-intuitive. It depends on the atty.
On the regular atty, around 4.4 volts, on the HV atty around 5v.
There has been no clearly defined shut off point, making it hard to trouble shoot. Seems very "wishy- washy" for lack of better wording.

 

[Wooden indian]

Thinking maybe it's just a faulty chip. No way to tell until I have another to compare against.
Not a big fan of these but because of the ease of availability I went for it.

Please... Please... Please... Show up Mr. Maildude. I WANT MY PTR08100W! LOL

Edit: i followed madvapes schem except for adding in the led and v display which is perf-boarded to the positive led of the atomizer connection.

 

[Dalton63841]

Have you checked all the connections? I had a boosted VV set up a while back acting like this, and it turned out that the Vout was loose. It was still passing current, but sometimes it wouldn't pass enough, sometimes nothing, sometimes all. Resoldering the connection fixed it up perfectly.

 

[Wooden indian]

I did, however, it's worth another look. It is a lot stuffed into a tight spot. I'll triple check being that you had the same issue.

 

[hoogie76]

batteries can also cause it to shut down where you have to turn off the box and then turn it back on to get it to work again.

hoog

 

[Wooden indian]

Thanks, hoog. Funny thing is I ran my used and brand new 14500s on it with same results.
No biggie, though. I ordered another vv setup from yall so I'll replace it and probably be fine.
Could drive to Orlando and pick up the chip in person from a dealer.... But I'm lazy as hell, man! LOL
For a 2 hour drive, I'd rather give you cats the business and have it shipped.

Anyway, it's no biggie.... Trouble shooting is a sort of a hobby. Tracing faults is like hunting Easter eggs. The "Eureka" moment is always priceless.

 

[mv2envy]

Dump that crappy VV chip and use a Murata OKR-T switching regulator. Look at the easy OKR-T VV theread. Parts will cost about $12 and your batteries will love you for it!

 

[Wooden indian]

Dump that crappy VV chip and use a Murata OKR-T switching regulator. Look at the easy OKR-T VV theread. Parts will cost about $12 and your batteries will love you for it!

I've ordered the PTR08100W chip for my next test mod. What do you prefer about the OKR-T?

 

[solarisx]

Looks like the over current circuit kicks in. Three things comes into my mind:
1. Connection problem. Check wires and the output voltage with multimeter.
2. The current limiter on the regulator cuts the current.
3. The current limiter on the battery cuts the current.

To check 3, by using a different source like an adapter. You can use a usb passthrough and connect the regulator output to the
usb cable on the passthough.
For #2: Check the current limit of the regulator, or post the model number and I'll look it up.

 

[mv2envy]

I've ordered the PTR08100W chip for my next test mod. What do you prefer about the OKR-T?

Well for one, you dont need the 10amp version, the 6 amp is 3 times the amount of amps you will ever use. 2nd, the OKR-T doesnt need capacitors, the Ti chip does, and 3rd and most importantly, the OKR-T chip is thinner, it doesnt have a huge bulg on top like the Ti chip making it easier to fit into a smaller case.

 

[Wooden indian]

Well for one, you dont need the 10amp version, the 6 amp is 3 times the amount of amps you will ever use. 2nd, the OKR-T doesnt need capacitors, the Ti chip does, and 3rd and most importantly, the OKR-T chip is thinner, it doesnt have a huge bulg on top like the Ti chip making it easier to fit into a smaller case.

Solid points. I have ordered 2 of each now (OKR and PTR). Also ordered another NCP for poops and giggles. Also bid on one of these guys just for fun.

Should have plenty of room in the long 18650 cases for virtually anything.

 

[mv2envy]

Oh and another thing, Not sure if this really matters to you, but from what I gather, the Ti chip only goes up to 5.5 volts but my OKR-T mod goes up to 6.5V. Not that I ever go that high, but its nice to have the option. And use 20awg wires to wire it up. I use 18 but then again Im crazy