Spheroid: SS Mesh Wick : PICTORIAL√

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qorax

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Spheroid ~ Reinvented with SS Mesh
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Step-1: Sizing the Mesh
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I used 400g Mesh and cut it to a 40x25 mm piece. Using the length of the weave I folded one end of it neatly, creased it and then used a needle at the other end to give it a feel of the roll.

Step-2: Tight but Hollow Roll
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Using the needle as its core I rolled the mesh into a tight coil with a dia of 1.96 mm. Note that this wick needs to be inserted in a 2 mm ID Coil.
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The Microcoil was made of 28g Kanthal wrapped over a 2.1 mm Allen Key.

Step-3: Check the Coil and Wick
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Then placed the wick inside the microcoil and moved it along its length to check for it’s breathing space. Note that the wick must not be too tight or loose inside, else it will either be throttled or won’t make surface contact. Under both circumstances there will be poor wicking leading to dry-hits. Now, using a suitable tool (a pen in this case) I gradually gave one end of the SS wick a smooth bend. This is needed since that bend will rest against the filler material and assist in juice feed.

Step-4: Torching the SS Wick
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Until now the SS Mesh was untreated. Herein I grabbed one end of the wick and torched it. Note that I torched only half its length, the area which would make contact with the coil. The other half remain untreated since that’s the portion which will ‘touch’ the filler material and torching it wouldn’t make any difference. In fact I think keeping that area untreated actually helps with a smoother flow of juice.

Step-5: Inserting the Treated SS Wick
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At this moment I reinserted the needle into the treated end and rolled it once more to weed out any inconsistencies that might have occurred during the previous processes. Then using the needle as a guide fed the wick into the microcoil.

Step-6: Pulsing the setup
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As with any SS mesh setup we need to ‘pulse’ the wick before its use. This ensures two things, (1)removes hot spots, and (2)makes the entire SS wick non-conductive to negate shorts anywhere which is beyond the coiled area. Upon the pulsing process the end resultant wick & coil should glow evenly like this:

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Step-7: Trimming the Wick & juicing it up
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Keeping the untreated end at approximately 15 mm in length I cut-off the other end of the wick, a tad shorter than the OD of the Spheroid’s base. Next, using the tool again (pen in my case) I reinforced the ‘bend’ at the untreated end into a 'snake head' shape. Note that all along the wick’s length it still remains hollow in its core with a near smooth round exterior. Now is the time to juice it up and check its vapour production.

Step-8: Vapor Check
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Step-9: Fill-up and Assembling the Tank
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Ensure to keep the ‘bent’ portion of the wick tail along the periphery of the tank - and away from the Chimney Tube. Then screw-in the tank tube into the Spheroid's base.

Step-10: The Vape Experience!
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THOUGHTS: Built it early in the morning today and vaped it all thru the day. The setup has been wicking perfectly, no dry-hits or gurgles (aka over-wicking or under-wicking). The GP Spheroid is anyway designed to be one of the most flavourful attys whatever the setup be ~ but with this SS Mesh Wick I find it has hit the epitome of ‘flavour’! It has been my most flavourful day and the taste is stupefyingly fantastic!

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BOTTOMLINE: Do you need to setup the Spheroid with a SS Mesh Wick? -NO-. The GP Spheroid is great in it’s usual builds as well, viz. the regular coils with Silica &/or a Microcoil with Cotton. Both of them offer superior vape experience. And a SS Mesh Build is not an easy task by any means. It takes additional efforts and time. Besides, it might just not be for a novice ~ while the other builds are. Which are easy. BUT if you can do it, love tinkering and want another shot at rebuilding this amazing atty ~ go for it! I have been using Spheroids for over a year now ~ and this SS Mesh Build is my most flavourful one!
 

toddrhodes

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I'm not a mesh fan but I do very much like pictorials and seeing what other people are doing with their gear, thanks Qorax

That's exactly why I clicked. Whenever I see "Pictorial!" I know I'm going to see skill and very, very nice equipment. Well done, even though I'll likely never attempt this, it was still a neat read :)
 

WattWick

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Love your detailed posts, qorax!

Just one tip I'd like to share from my own ventures into crazy-shaped mesh wicks. When I want a bendy mesh wick, I roll around a thick-ish kanthal wire. Usually 26 awg as that's my thickest. What I get by doing so is a wick that can be bent into any shape, and that will retain any shape I give it. I'm not entirely sure, but I don't think a hollow mesh wick will add anything to wickability. I think that's more for gennies; to help either get air into the tank or allow juice to flow on the inside when tilted. As your setup is more reliant on capillary wicking, I'd make it as dense as possible. Still with a "rigid core" like a kanthal wire.

Not at all saying you're doing it wrong lol. Obviously you're not if it's working right :)
 

qorax

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Love your detailed posts, qorax!

Just one tip I'd like to share from my own ventures into crazy-shaped mesh wicks. When I want a bendy mesh wick, I roll around a thick-ish kanthal wire. Usually 26 awg as that's my thickest. What I get by doing so is a wick that can be bent into any shape, and that will retain any shape I give it. I'm not entirely sure, but I don't think a hollow mesh wick will add anything to wickability. I think that's more for gennies; to help either get air into the tank or allow juice to flow on the inside when tilted. As your setup is more reliant on capillary wicking, I'd make it as dense as possible. Still with a "rigid core" like a kanthal wire.

Not at all saying you're doing it wrong lol. Obviously you're not if it's working right :)

Thanks for those cool tips WW :)
 

Chelonian

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The timing of this post is downright creepy - as I did my first SS mesh setup in my Spheroid on the same day...great minds really do think alike :)

Personally, I had better luck building my coils for the Spheroid ABOVE the posts, no matter the wicking material. I know that the shorter you can get the legs, the better, but for me that fact has been offset by getting my wick closer to the fluff.

Also, the best performing setup for me has been to keep the wick straight, and cutting it to the width of the Spheroid's atty.

My second build was very close to yours, and I would get dry-ish hits much sooner than I would with cotton.

My current setup - using 400 wrapped around 26 AWG, straight wick with a 26AWG .85 coil around a 3/32nd bit is freaking awesome. I already thought that the Spheroid gave me much better flavor than any of my Kayfun style attys..more in line with gennies.

Now I feel the flavor is actually better than some of my gennies, and far superior to any other bottom fed atty that I have.

Does the Heron perform as well?
 

qorax

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The timing of this post is downright creepy - as I did my first SS mesh setup in my Spheroid on the same day...great minds really do think alike :)

Personally, I had better luck building my coils for the Spheroid ABOVE the posts, no matter the wicking material. I know that the shorter you can get the legs, the better, but for me that fact has been offset by getting my wick closer to the fluff.

Also, the best performing setup for me has been to keep the wick straight, and cutting it to the width of the Spheroid's atty.

My second build was very close to yours, and I would get dry-ish hits much sooner than I would with cotton.

My current setup - using 400 wrapped around 26 AWG, straight wick with a 26AWG .85 coil around a 3/32nd bit is freaking awesome. I already thought that the Spheroid gave me much better flavor than any of my Kayfun style attys..more in line with gennies.

Now I feel the flavor is actually better than some of my gennies, and far superior to any other bottom fed atty that I have.


Does the Heron perform as well?

Yes, the Heron is quite similar to the Spheroid in VTF.
 
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