SPRING? . . . . .. what spring?

[Ian444]

Nice recovery Greatest, well done, in true modder's spirit!

ETA - Speaking of modifications, I bought an old modeller's lathe made in 1908 and received it Thursday, been playing with it today, here's a pic of the first take on a RM2 cap. It vapes a lot better now just j/k

 

[supertrunker]

Aussie post must be worse than the mail here!

T

 

[Ian444]

ROFLMAO very good T The lathe was made in England, it originally used a treadle to run it. Thankfully someone put an electric motor on it sometime in the last 100 years.

 

[deezdrama]

Found some nice brass fuse spade adapters, getting ready to do the mod.

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[deezdrama]

First i need to figure out if this adhesive copper strip i have will conduct good or if the adhesive will make it perform bad.

Any thoughts? I have brass shim but dont want to break the 510 post trying to remove the contact spring so thought the adhesive copper might be an easy alternative.

I think i bought it a while back for a electrical project but not sure... so i dont know if the adhesive would create unwanted resistance.

Any thoughts?

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[Filthy-Beast]

First i need to figure out if this adhesive copper strip i have will conduct good or if the adhesive will make it perform bad.

Any thoughts? I have brass shim but dont want to break the 510 post trying to remove the contact spring so thought the adhesive copper might be an easy alternative.

I think i bought it a while back for a electrical project but not sure... so i dont know if the adhesive would create unwanted resistance.

Any thoughts?

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Probably not a good idea since the copper is so thin.

 

[supertrunker]

i'd be more worried about the adhesive slipping if it heated and leaving you with a nice piece of copper ready to short your mod out! This incidentally is the same as the tales i heard about modding my firing buttons at the time.

This is what i used to do to mine. I used little rivet heads from Hobby Lobby and i epoxy glued just the tops on to a filed down firing button. I still use my grand with this today.

Left to right is a timeline.

T

 

[supertrunker]

i used ceramic paint to make it nice and black too - but that's a waste of time and not necessary at all, but i was rather particular back in the day!

This will not stop sparking etc, so you will still need to clean your Grand, but it will lessen the chances of your button melting.

None of this will be necessary as soon as the new rebuild kits are available.

T

 

[deezdrama]

Crap'ola.... its already back together with the copper on the bottom of the button and the fuse mod. Ill just keep an eye on it untill the kits are available

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[deezdrama]

Didnt end up using any of the brass spade adapters... got tired of trying to get them to fit- just did the bent fuse with adhesive rubber pad under right side... works great!

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[c3 rolling]

Wow thanks for the great idea OP! It really is a night and day difference! I just drilled a 1/16ish hole and screwed on the original ground screw. I made sure to use noalox before I screwed it on and wow....all I can say is wow.

The thing that interested me was that the paint was completely intact under the stock spring. I wonder why Rob doesnt remove some paint so the stock spring has a better ground?

 

[rjeatkrconley]

Found some nice brass fuse spade adapters, getting ready to do the mod.

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Cut the spade here. The hole in the spade will line up with the spring hole perfectly. Just thread the hole and done.

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[deezdrama]

Cut the spade here. The hole in the spade will line up with the spring hole perfectly. Just thread the hole and done. View attachment 323104

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Yeah... i seen that one in the package of assorted adapters and is the reason i bought it, i clipped the curved end off and tried it like your saying last night but it raised the left side up to high, could probably crimp down on the curved spade edges to get the profile a little lower but got tired last night.

For now the bent fuse is working fine.... ill eventually get one of those adapters to work though. Found them at o'reilys for $3 and some change.

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[Alexander Mundy]

Wow thanks for the great idea OP! It really is a night and day difference! I just drilled a 1/16ish hole and screwed on the original ground screw. I made sure to use noalox before I screwed it on and wow....all I can say is wow.

The thing that interested me was that the paint was completely intact under the stock spring. I wonder why Rob doesnt remove some paint so the stock spring has a better ground?

I didn't remove any of the paint when I did my connector/fuse and it works with low voltage drop.

BTW, really like your Avatar.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

The screw provides better contact than just sitting on the body would.

 

[rjeatkrconley]

Yeah... i seen that one in the package of assorted adapters and is the reason i bought it, i clipped the curved end off and tried it like your saying last night but it raised the left side up to high, could probably crimp down on the curved spade edges to get the profile a little lower but got tired last night.

For now the bent fuse is working fine.... ill eventually get one of those adapters to work though. Found them at o'reilys for $3 and some change.

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I bend the straight leg of the fuse down... say 10 degrees or so. I have also added a bit of spade underneath the folded contact. I have found that after a while the folded contact flattens causing battery rattle and I have to push the button down further.

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[karmakatie]

I got a wild hair this morning and decided to give this mod a try and holy toledo!! Right now I just have the fuse sitting in the RTA grand, I am not doing anything permanent as I am holding out for the SO kit. My battery is holding out longer this morning than it usually does and with better hits! I have the very same coil and even the cotton from yesterday and there is a very notable difference!

To be honest the only thing I was looking forward to on the SO rebuild was the better firing pin and NO noalox, but I can now see it is really going to make difference in battery life and more power to the atty!! I was only going to get one kit for my most used Reo but now they are all getting upgraded!!.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I bend the straight leg of the fuse down... View attachment 323203 View attachment 323204 say 10 degrees or so. I have also added a bit of spade underneath the folded contact. I have found that after a while the folded contact flattens causing battery rattle and I have to push the button down further.

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Great Idea, I've also noticed the loosening and keep bending that leg up.

 

[rjeatkrconley]

Great Idea, I've also noticed the loosening and keep bending that leg up.

I made sure that the strip I added didn't stick out as to bypass the fuse. I also squeezed the bent over tab tightly with some pliers. A hard non conductive piece would be ideal but at 2am is all I had to work with. Had to make a new firing pin. Found that I had actually melted the button a little. .22 ohm is kinda warm! I think I will stay around. 4 until I build a new bottom plate for the button. Hopefully a week from Monday we can start ordering the kits!!!!

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[c3 rolling]

I didn't remove any of the paint when I did my connector/fuse and it works with low voltage drop.

BTW, really like your Avatar.

Thanks! So you didn't remove any paint? If I didnt remove any paint, the prong would not make any contact with the body other than the screw to the body.