SPRING? . . . . .. what spring?

[Alexander Mundy]

Does the bottom screw of the Reo screw right into the hole of the piggy back connector without any modification to the connector?

It would depend on the specific connector. I had to slightly enlarge the hole with a carb idle jet drill (don't remember which size) then used the screw itself to thread the connector. Might want to make sure you have a spare screw just in case it stripped out.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

On the connector I used the hole didn't line up so I had to drill a new one and I also used the screw to tap the hole.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

hey guys, I made a firing pin with a 0.010 brass shim yesterday, everything is identical to the original stnd pin apart from the contact end which I rolled really really tight in a clockwise direction, i then made a 1ohm(aprox) coil, it fired ok and i think the vd was .20
then i went for 0.5(aprox) coil which fired ok and i think the vd was .40, but i also noticed a bit of sparking on the battery, it wasn't as bad as ive seen at low end ohm coils
But i just wanted to get you guys that are in the know and that have been experimenting with these things to tell me firstly do the vdrops sound about right for the mods ive done, also have the fuse mod done
and are you guys still getting a little sparking ? and has anyone made the pin smaller or wider etc to get better results? is just i have quite a bit of brass in dif thickness and don't mind experimenting a little but don't wanna use it all up when you guys have already done some of this

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I do not get sparking with a .7 ohm coil, however I used .012 brass, filed the tip really good after I rolled it and use plenty of noalox.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

I get a little bit of sparking with brass feeler gauge unless I Noalox.

 

[patrao_n]

Well I cut some copper clad boards today. They are 0.011" thick. I will try to come up with a way to use them. Kind of socks they don't bend. If you bend it the board breaks. I have 150 of them so I'm sure a few mishaps won't be a problem lol here is a picture.

http://swappa.com/listing/WAG372/view

 

[pdib]

hey guys, I made a firing pin with a 0.010 brass shim yesterday, everything is identical to the original stnd pin apart from the contact end which I rolled really really tight in a clockwise direction, i then made a 1ohm(aprox) coil, it fired ok and i think the vd was .20
then i went for 0.5(aprox) coil which fired ok and i think the vd was .40, but i also noticed a bit of sparking on the battery, it wasn't as bad as ive seen at low end ohm coils
But i just wanted to get you guys that are in the know and that have been experimenting with these things to tell me firstly do the vdrops sound about right for the mods ive done, also have the fuse mod done
and are you guys still getting a little sparking ? and has anyone made the pin smaller or wider etc to get better results? is just i have quite a bit of brass in dif thickness and don't mind experimenting a little but don't wanna use it all up when you guys have already done some of this

.4V dropped on a .5Ω coil is pretty good. I was getting .3-.35V on .4Ω. One thing I did was to drop the firing pin into the cleaning solution before installing it. (the lead cleaner . .. . .. also, just happens to clean pretty good too .. . . 2pt. Vinegar : 1pt Hydrogen Peroxide) I never had sparking issues after the full mod. I did polish the chrome off the top of the 510+/post. And my fuse set up is tight (good firm contact), and done with brass posts in the fuse holder. Just throwing out ideas, don't know if/what really makes a substantial difference.

Oh, also, the rolling. Darkzero observed that when he rolled his pin, he would see sparking across the layers of the rolls. so, I would just do one turn and make sure the leading edge of that roll was pressed tight to the pin body.. . . .. . or whatever means of not having gaps in the shortest path btwn batt. and 510.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

Thanks guys and dib's you cleared up a couple of things for me, funny enough when I was rolling the brass over I was thinking to myself what you just said about the sparking unless fully contacted against self, I'm glad I'm almost at your standards dibs's, the only thing I been scratching my head over is cleaning the chrome plate off the connections without destroying the thread, will wire wool be ok? and I presume it's a good idea to do the thread where the firing pin sit's on ...

and i'll prob make a brass fuse holder aswell! why not

 

[pdib]

On the 510 post, I just cleaned up 2 things. The flat of the head, and the "shoulder" where the firing pin rests. On the shoulder part, if I were to do it again, I'd chuck the post into my drill and hold a folded piece of sandpaper against it, or even a piece of cardboard with some metal polish on it. Mind you, this was a slight gain (noticeable, but slight).

 

[rjeatkrconley]

Well I cut some copper clad boards today. They are 0.011" thick. I will try to come up with a way to use them. Kind of socks they don't bend. If you bend it the board breaks. I have 150 of them so I'm sure a few mishaps won't be a problem lol here is a picture.

Samsung Galaxy Note II (Sprint) For Sale - WAG372 - $245 > Swappa

I had a similar problem with the brass that I used. I cut the pin into a v shape. Helped with the lack of "springyness"

 

[zmauls]

I finally did this fuse mod properly after studying this thread carefully. Holy dotdotdot, this is out of control! Thanks everyone for your expertise.

Might end up replacing the positive connection as well. We shall see... My crystal ball tells me a trip to Home Depot is in my immediate future.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I got a $6 feeler gauge from the auto parts store that had two brass gauges one at .012 the other .010. you can get 4 positive pins out of each one. I was able to cut it with kitchen scissors.

 

[PNW Rider]

Does anyone know of a thread where we should subscribe to hear first hand when the kit from Rob will be live on his site? I feel like they are going to go quick and Rob will be backed up trying ship them all. A head start for us devout would be amazing.

 

[ukeman]

Just watch the Reo sub forum if you really want to catch it…

I subscribe to this one though… for lack of knowing a better one at the moment;
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...echanical-reos-will-seeing-some-upgrades.html

 

[SeaNap]

Rob has mentioned a few times that he will not run out. Apparently his stock is in the 1000's. You may have a point about the shipping, but that wouldnt be a long delay. He also said that there isn't much actual demand (maybe only a couple hundred) , some of these threads just make it look like everybody wants it, us subohmers are just more vocal.

My personal opinion is everybody should get the new kit, but I think a lot of people operate under the "if it's not broke dont fix it" mentality. Can't fault them for that.

 

[supertrunker]

All his new mods will have them installed too, so he'll use a load himself!

I have only butchered one of my grands - the other 2 are in top condition but they will also be getting a kit each, because i like low-Ω coils. As to when.....

T

 

[SeaNap]

Fuse Update:
I was playing around with my Cyclone AFC, and I made dual coil 10wrap NiCh80 26awg .055"ID which measured out to 0.21ohms. I figured what the heck, and fired and the 10A fuse popped in like a quarter sec. Re-coiled with dual 12 wraps which measured out to 0.35ohm (which is admittedly very low for me) and now we're right as rain, huge clouds great flavor fast response time.

Who'd a thought... 20A is too much for the 10A fuse

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Just running a safety check? 12 amps and 50 watts has to be quite a vape

 

[X-Puppy]

Just running a safety check? 12 amps and 50 watts has to be quite a vape

Indeed to is!

I'll have to double check but I wrapped dual 12 wrap 26g nichrome 80 on a 1/16th bit and it came out to .53ohms. I was going to try fewer wraps on my next one to improve the response time but looks like I will have to do the math first before hitting the switch.

 

[zmauls]

Fuse Update:
I was playing around with my Cyclone AFC, and I made dual coil 10wrap NiCh80 26awg .055"ID which measured out to 0.21ohms. I figured what the heck, and fired and the 10A fuse popped in like a quarter sec. Re-coiled with dual 12 wraps which measured out to 0.35ohm (which is admittedly very low for me) and now we're right as rain, huge clouds great flavor fast response time.

Who'd a thought... 20A is too much for the 10A fuse

0.055" ID, that's about 1.5mm. When I wrap 10 coils of 26G around my 1.4mm screwdriver I still end up with around 0.4Ω. I can only assume you either meant 10 wraps total, as in 5 per coil, or Nichrome wire has a lower resistance than Kanthal.