SPRING? . . . . .. what spring?

[EagleTa2]

OK guys... My copper vein Reo is now 10 days old and my black n blue Reo should arrive Monday I hope..

I'm seriously considering fabbing up a fuse block for the micro fuse out of 1/4" delrin. I have been in a Reo bliss fog since I set it up..literally.

Do you think my subject is too new to mess with? I mean its really quite good as is..could this really make it that much better?

Looking for your opinions here...

Thanks, Geo

 

[Xobeloot]

it's worth it... Especially if you are a sub-Ω vaper

 

[pdib]

I forget, Geo, what resistance to you like to build to?

If you're above 1.2-1.5Ω, you're not going to see much difference in performance, and maybe just a skedoodle more battery life. Between .8 and 1Ω, I think you'll notice an appreciable difference. At .7 and below, it makes a big difference. Also, bear in mind, depending on how you set it up, your REO can be completely unscathed. (say, for example with Mundy's use of the existing spring screw to lock in a whatchamadoodle)

 

[supertrunker]

just use the existing spring base - it's faster. I like Mundy. The Brunel of vaping!

T

 

[Xobeloot]

did you already get the MM I sent you T?

 

[supertrunker]

not yet X, and HRH went to the mailbox. i did however get a heartwarming card from my insurer with a cosy pic of his family on it to show me that his children are well fed god-fearing citizens living high on my back! Love it!

I'm prowling for that gear - i have a decent camera now too, so i can document all my usual monumental f-ups (that last bit was HRH).

T

 

[EagleTa2]

I forget, Geo, what resistance to you like to build to?

If you're above 1.2-1.5Ω, you're not going to see much difference in performance, and maybe just a skedoodle more battery life. Between .8 and 1Ω, I think you'll notice an appreciable difference. At .7 and below, it makes a big difference. Also, bear in mind, depending on how you set it up, your REO can be completely unscathed. (say, for example with Mundy's use of the existing spring screw to lock in a whatchamadoodle)

Hi dibs...

First coil was at 1.02 ohm... Wanted a little more punch so I ordered 27ga kanthal. I wound up a single coil and if I remember right I'm at .65 or so...and loving it.

As an aside, I wrapped a parallel dual wire micro for my sigelei 8w... Metered out at .37! Wow, that's an angry little coil..I wouldn't subject my Reo to that one...but thick chewy vapor coming out of it...just for fun (going to cloud up a vape meet tomorrow)

I'll try to get out to my shop to take a picture of the fuse holder I have in mind that I made for my next wood mods. It incorporates a bottle retainer also...won't need that on the Reo!

Thanks,
Geo

 

[EagleTa2]

Hi Guys

Here is the photo that I was referring to:

This design would allow the screw which currently secures the spring to be used to secure my fused base. As mentioned I plan on making the one for my reo out of black Delrin.


fused base by EagleTa2, on Flickr

Lemme know what you think!

Thanks,
Geo

 

[pdib]

Geo! What a great design! And yes, you are definitely in the appropriate V-drop category. DO EET NAO!

 

[Xobeloot]

Hi Guys

Here is the photo that I was referring to:

This design would allow the screw which currently secures the spring to be used to secure my fused base. As mentioned I plan on making the one for my reo out of black Delrin.


fused base by EagleTa2, on Flickr

Lemme know what you think!

Thanks,
Geo

Dude! I had planned on using wood for my fused negative in my stabilized woody I'll be building soon. Forgive me, but I will be stealing that design!

 

[EagleTa2]

Dude! I had planned on using wood for my fused negative in my stabilized woody I'll be building soon. Forgive me, but I will be stealing that design!

DO IT my friend... If you wanna know how I did it, I'll write it up. I wanted my fuse block to be seamless from the front. I didn't want to see the saw kerf from the front...

Thanks
Geo

 

[Xobeloot]

I'm actually going to be dremeling out a solid block. I would just integrate the design into the solid block, but I am going to have to run a wire from the 510 neg to the fuse neg, so I will use a similar step design so I can run the wire underneath it.

 

[EagleTa2]

I'm actually going to be dremeling out a solid block. I would just integrate the design into the solid block, but I am going to have to run a wire from the 510 neg to the fuse neg, so I will use a similar step design so I can run the wire underneath it.

That is my plan also...I milled a wider groove in the bottom brass screw of the fuse base to give me a nice place to solder the wire flush and will run the wire up the corner behind the battery...

 

[Xobeloot]

nice.

I'm going a little off the beaten track with the door on mine. Most use a magnetic or sliding door. I'm using tiny brass hinges and a jewelry box clasp. It'll basically be like a vapeable keepsake chest.

 

[EagleTa2]

nice.

I'm going a little off the beaten track with the door on mine. Most use a magnetic or sliding door. I'm using tiny brass hinges and a jewelry box clasp. It'll basically be like a vapeable keepsake chest.

Can't wait to see it, Kev!

 

[Xobeloot]

I have a few nice pieces of African Blackwood and Gaboon Ebony that I am thinking I may turn into an e-pipe. My crappy dremel isn't working right now, and the high-end kit that the wife bought me is sitting under the x-mas tree right now but I can't touch it Will get started in another 10 days.

 

[custom-classic]

I know Rob said he wasn't comfortable with using a fuse because some would just install a 30A fuse and it could be dangerous (paraphrasing from memory). Does anyone know how the new kit will provide short circuit protection? Beryllium copper spring that collapses? I would be seriously interested in a pdib style fuse block that had BeCu contacts plus, of course, the BeCu firing pin.

 

[pdib]

I've been doing some mild-mannered, occasional, un-scientific comparisons between brass and BeCu. The way I would describe my take on it is that, for the amount of current we are trying to pass across the size of contacts we are using, they perform equally well. This isn't my final word on it, but this opinion of mine is gaining strength with experience. Also, I've been running brass pins in my REOs for . . . . . months(?), and they never need cleaning or maintenance; so the "tarnishing" issue is almost moot, methinks.

If we were trying to run major current over long distances, that'd be a different story, I'm sure.

 

[custom-classic]

I was thinkin' I'd read that BeCu had better conductivity than brass but my search-fu is netting me different results. I think I haz it backwardz.





edit: Apparently, it depends on the particular BeCu alloy. Some have better conductivity, some worse.

 

[supertrunker]

The kit will be a spring and a firing pin and so i have decided that my black grand will get the fuse mod and the pin only. Regarding the 30A fuse thing - you cannot do much about rank idiocy and i'd ask anyone using a 30A fuse why they bother to use one at all?

Sub ohming as safely as possible and not having to clean the mod for ages are good enough reasons for me to spend on a new kit. Dibby's brass pin looks worth the trouble too and i'm convinced it works so well because of the large rolled over contact area. Sadly, since Thanksgiving i have actually had to do work at work, rather than pottering about with my own projects.

Anyway - a kind monkey has made some MM wire for me and so that will occupy me this week!

T