SPRING? . . . . .. what spring?

[pdib]

Thanks dibby. My concern is the brass screws... Obvious concern is that if the were flush to the face of the block they would not make contact and thus...no workie.

Please share how much your screws protrude from your block? I plan on my next block being about .190 thick....

BTW, I'm the only woodworker I know that uses a dial calipers instead of a tape measure. I'm a bit ocd that way, I s'pose.

Thanks
Geo

Tell you what, I'm using a different battery, so my specs are going to be different. I was grinding down the block if the brass contact was getting too close to flush. The other thing (I'm assuming your bottom contact is on the right, under the other leg of the fuse), is if you make it undersized and put a felt cabinet bumper on the left/opposite side of the bottom, it gives you a little wiggle room and gently pushes it up against the battery . . . .. . . which, btw, other than aural aesthetics, can be super jiggly loose; because the firing pin will find it and press it down against the fuse contact when you press the button.

 

[pdib]

All that said, my block is .201" (just measuring the random size I ended up with) and contact(s) inclusive height is about .242" (give or take .005)

 

[supertrunker]

Where do you get your brass screws from, sizes etc please?

T

 

[supertrunker]

i ask because i have some glass filled teflon that is great for this and i am torn between the Mundy crimpsleeve method and this:



Oh and here's a small piece of apple pie with cream HRH made for your birthday!


It's bloody great!

T

 

[pdib]

8/32.

I'd polish up the end of a screw, screw it in, cut off the bulk of the screw (leaving enough proud to work with), cut an overdeep slot across the top, file it down until it seemed about right . . . . yada, yada, yada. (I was using an 8/32 tap; but that was Richlite. I imagine the PTFE is softer?)

 

[pdib]

Oh, and tell Smurfy "thank you for the pie! Yummy!"

 

[EagleTa2]

8/32.

I'd polish up the end of a screw, screw it in, cut off the bulk of the screw (leaving enough proud to work with), cut an overdeep slot across the top, file it down until it seemed about right . . . . yada, yada, yada. (I was using an 8/32 tap; but that was Richlite. I imagine the PTFE is softer?)

Thanks dibs... I didn't have at true brass screws so I done it hard way... A 3ft length of brass all thread at amazon is about $2 and change...ships free with prime. I thread a bit into an 8-32 lock nut, then cut it off with a dremel. Cut a groove in it with dremel and if I can keep my hands from shaking, the groove is useful for a small screwdriver.

I don't drill the block all the way through for each screw... Through one side and about halfway into the opposing thickness. To tap the holes, I just used a type f machine screw...my tap was hiding.

I made the block wide enough so I could use the screw from the spring mount to hold it in... So mine doesn't have any give and that's not exactly good here. I may use the felt pad idea on next one to give the slightest cushion and to make it easier to replace batteries.

I see the benefit of longer battery life with less v drop if I increase my coil resistance... I really like the concept of not having to replace a spring if I have a short...although I do have a few spares....and have never had a short...yet

Thanks for the help!
Geo

 

[pdib]

Yeah, when I don't have a tap on hand, I just cut a couple of v-grooves up the first few threads of a machine screw.

 

[clone1008]

You can also take a spade terminal like on the right, bend and cut it so it looks like the one on the left, enlarge the hole a little, tap the spring holder screw into it, install in place of the spring, shape the fuse like so, cut a little off the straight fuse terminal, and wham bam fuse terminal and holder with no modification of the Reo necessary.

For the life of me, I just can't seem to figure this out. The spade terminal that I have doesn't seem to have enough on the end to fold and bend like this one. Am I missing something?

 

[Alexander Mundy]

My nomenclature wasn't the best there.
3M calls it a "Multi-Stack Disconnect, Vinyl Insulated, Butted Seam"
http://media.digikey.com/PDF/Data Sheets/3M PDFs/MVUxx-250DMF-A.pdf

I don't know what brand mine was as I have a drawer stack in my work van I keep small wire connectors in and replace them as needed from the supply house.

 

[custom-classic]

I got mine from O'reillly's : Dorman® Conduct-Tite!™ 85412 - Piggyback Slide Terminals | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I used the one in the middle.


Here's mine:

 

[custom-classic]

Here's a link to the one I used with better pics:

Dorman® Conduct-Tite!™ 85613 - Piggyback Slide Terminals | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

[clone1008]

My nomenclature wasn't the best there.
3M calls it a "Multi-Stack Disconnect, Vinyl Insulated, Butted Seam"
http://media.digikey.com/PDF/Data Sheets/3M PDFs/MVUxx-250DMF-A.pdf

I don't know what brand mine was as I have a drawer stack in my work van I keep small wire connectors in and replace them as needed from the supply house.

Where would someone get these locally?

 

[clone1008]

Here's a link to the one I used with better pics:

Dorman® Conduct-Tite!™ 85613 - Piggyback Slide Terminals | O'Reilly Auto Parts



View attachment 289560

I don't have an oreilly or pep boys close to me...

 

[clone1008]

Looks like my local Carquest has something similar

http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_CARQUEST+Wire+Terminals+By+Standard+Female+1%2F4%22+Slide-On+Quick+Disconnect+w%2FExtra+%22Piggyback%22+Male+Terminal+-+For+22-18+gauge+w__10151_-1_10651_1450569_?acesApp=0

[URL=http://s138.photobucket.com/user/clone1008/media/Reo%20Grand%20Copper%20Vein%20with%20Brass%20RM2/727943565686_AIO_zpsa4ebba9e.jpg.html][/URL]

 

[custom-classic]

That'll work great.

 

[Krazirob]

im uploading pics now but as i vape i wanna know something......i did this fuse mod and although i did not incorporate the screw into securing the fuse in place the battery keeps the fuse tight against the battery and the bottom of the mod.....i filed down the bottom and applied some noalax to it which one piece of the fuse touches and the other piece is just against the bottom of battery......

is this fine....im assuming if something happens the fuse will just blow and my mod will be ok correct.......

P.S. Im all about pushing coils to their limits and dealing with batteries but this fuse mod seems barbaric.....LOL

also i got 4.0 V on a fresh battery on a .5 ohm coil which is OUTSTANDING for me....ive never had such a small V drop before.

 

[ltrainer]

I think its dangerous the way you have it set up. I'm not an expert nor have I set my Reo up with this fuse but I think you need to isolate the contact of the fuse better. IF it grounds against the side of your Reo have no protection at all. I'm sure others will chime in with more sure thoughts than what I have.

 

[armyofskittles]

im uploading pics now but as i vape i wanna know something......i did this fuse mod and although i did not incorporate the screw into securing the fuse in place the battery keeps the fuse tight against the battery and the bottom of the mod.....i filed down the bottom and applied some noalax to it which one piece of the fuse touches and the other piece is just against the bottom of battery......

is this fine....im assuming if something happens the fuse will just blow and my mod will be ok correct.......

P.S. Im all about pushing coils to their limits and dealing with batteries but this fuse mod seems barbaric.....LOL

also i got 4.0 V on a fresh battery on a .5 ohm coil which is OUTSTANDING for me....ive never had such a small V drop before.

All you did was fold the connectors of the fuse in opposite directions and stuck it in there? Or is there more to what I'm seeing?

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

 

[custom-classic]

You've got it set up super_X_drifter style. This is how I did it at first. Just make sure you put something in there to insulate the body from the blade that's in contact with the bottom of the battery; otherwise you could bypass the fuse like ltrainer said. Something like an adhesive backed cabinet bumper or even velcro.