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c3scott

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which connector are you thinking of?
I bought some varitubes for these enclosures, I think the design will work better than the FD connectors.
As for silver sheet, I've had some conversations with other folks with similar projects and this place has been recommended more than once.
Sterling Silver 4 Sheet, 20-Ga., Spring-Hard

I went back and forth about silver contacts and after even more conversations I settled on a different material. For my personal use I'm not worried about .1 / .2 difference in voltage drop and I've always built my coils to compensate for it anyways. Many Reo users will know what I mean lol... Maybe I'll splurge and pick up some silver sheet for one of them. That price tho....

But yes, with some basic tools and a little bit of effort, these will make first-class devices for sure!
There is a build tutorial out there for these, although it's in a foreign language, but if you can learn by watching then it's a good video for the basic idea of assembling one.

I planned on the black one being my beater / test device, so maybe I'll whack one together this afternoon using the FD connector I have handy.
 

minimalsaint

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Keep posting your build as I think I want to go there. I was only able to find one foreign language video on sheeting.

Will do!
Didn't get a chance this evening, still working on a separate little number. She got a nice shine tonight, hopefully I'll have the finished pics up for this one soon!
CcIFQ4T.jpg
 

minimalsaint

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Motion denied. Floris is too busy to leave a tab in the corner. Don't see it as a major request but,I get it. Just don't mill a little section.....
f1b7280de81d9efbd5e1b09b073273c4.jpg



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Welp. Worth a shot!
He normally has the orcas in stock and I'm no machinist, but I suspect setting up the CNC for one or two enclosures could be pretty time-consuming so I can respect that.
FWIW I feel like the tab on the frankenskull doesn't serve much of a purpose besides a bottle shelf, and I feel like that would only limit your options if you wanted a little larger bottle in the enclosure. I wouldn't worry about the tab doubling as a holder for the pos. contact; it's not really necessary IMO.
The tab wasn't a deal breaker, was it?
 

EddieAdams

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Not a deal breaker. If the internals shift there could be a major issue. Only separated by mm +- and if the bar rides up for whatever reason the only thing keeping pressure on the corner is a bottle with rubber tubing. That's my main concern and not having the positive bar pop out when I pull the battery.



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minimalsaint

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Not a deal breaker. If the internals shift there could be a major issue. Only separated by mm +- and if the bar rides up for whatever reason the only thing keeping pressure on the corner is a bottle with rubber tubing. That's my main concern and not having the positive bar pop out when I pull the battery.



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Sure, I could see your concern.
I personally don't think that tab would save much if the contact strip cut loose inside the enclosure; the problematic part would be the strip coming loose on the button side of the enclosure.
To be honest, the only part of the contact that gets any real stress is where the button depresses, and the amount of stress is more dependent on the thickness and resistance the strip gives when you depress the button. the rest simply lies along the edge of the enclosure and doesn't experience any sort of force to loosen it.
personally, for the first enclosure I'm going to use gorilla mounting tape (for a couple different reasons) along the length of the strip, and in the future I may try an epoxy to see if there's a real difference. You definitely want the strip secured along the length though.
In the wood enclosures I've been working on, CA glue is doing a perfect job of holding the contact strip in place without any issue, and I've been purposely abusing the crap out of it to find the weak points.
If all else fails, there's always the option to epoxy your own block into the corner for peace of mind!
 

Mr47

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Welp. Worth a shot!
He normally has the orcas in stock and I'm no machinist, but I suspect setting up the CNC for one or two enclosures could be pretty time-consuming so I can respect that.
FWIW I feel like the tab on the frankenskull doesn't serve much of a purpose besides a bottle shelf, and I feel like that would only limit your options if you wanted a little larger bottle in the enclosure. I wouldn't worry about the tab doubling as a holder for the pos. contact; it's not really necessary IMO.
The tab wasn't a deal breaker, was it?
Found this on youtube might help it is in Italian and the English subtitles don't make much sense but worth a watch.

or you could make the contact longer to fold on the opposite side as well which should hold it better
like the one in the picture.
 

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minimalsaint

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Found this on youtube might help it is in Italian and the English subtitles don't make much sense but worth a watch.

or you could make the contact longer to fold on the opposite side as well which should hold it better
like the one in the picture.


That's the one!
There really should be no worry of the strip coming loose anyplace other than below the fire button, and even then it's not an area of great "flex" depending on how far you set the contact strip from the center pin.
I don't see much benefit in wrapping the contact around the enclosure, only adding an unnecessary path for current to travel.
 

EddieAdams

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@EddieAdams
Maybe some kind of rubber wedge of some sort might work better to keep it in place...
Could just glue a piece of rectangular plastic there. Doesn't need to be width of the enclosure. Silver bar will be width of enclosure. Door will keep it in place and tab will lock it in.....

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