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Pappy, you must be the lucky one where machining tolerances are working in your favour. Everyone else, myself included, need an adaptor to make the vivi nova 2 work on the chrome ss lavatube. I also don't think you require an adaptor for the vision clearo on that model.
Are you talking about the same model perhaps? I think the model tlmoody27 is talking about is the chrome one with the tapered top.
Are you talking about the same model perhaps? I think the model tlmoody27 is talking about is the chrome one with the tapered top.
"PV" is the politically-correct term for an "electronic cigarette", intended to avoid using the word "cigarette", which these obviously are not. "PV" = Personal Vaporizer (yes, kinda dumb), and "APV" = Advanced Personal Vaporizer. The latter is typically characterized by either removeable batteries, variable voltage (/wattage), or other relatively nebulous characteristics.
Read and understand this thread, and you will no longer be confused.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ined-detail-single-dual-coil-atty-cartos.html (volts-amps-ohms-explained-detail-single-dual-coil-atty-cartos.html)
Backing up what Sailorman just said, here it is in a nutshell:
You want x number of watts (heat) per coil to produce the best vape for a particular juice.
To me, that range is about 6 to 8 watts. YMMV.
Ohm's Law says Volts x Volts / resistance (of the coil) = watts (produced in/by that coil)
The higher the resistance of the coil, the more volts are required to produce x watts.
A 1.5 ohm dual coil is actually two 3-ohm coils wired in parallel, making the overall resistance 1.5 ohms. But the watts have to be divided between the two coils. This takes more voltage; more than most fixed-voltage devices can produce IMO.
The amp rating of the device must be taken into account. They can range from maybe as low as 2 to as high as 5. I'd say most are between 2 and 3.5.
Amps = Watts / volts; so a lot of watts at relatively low voltage, like using a 1.5 ohm dual coil on a Joytech eGo battery, or a kGo - or a full-range APV for that matter (although why the hell would you) - will draw a lot of amps.
Keeping the amps down will A) help keep you under your device's amp limit, which will prevent it from throttling down its voltage output, and B) give you more vape time on a charge. It's counter-intuitive, but the higher the coil resistance, the easier it is on the battery.
It's not quite as complicated as it sounds, and a good reference chart will make it easier to understand, as will running v x v / ohms about 200 times on a calculator, then dividing the watts by the volts used to create those watts to arrive at the amps drawn. See? Pretty simple really.
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I use the dct I got from Apollo and it works. I really never had a airy draw. But I do notice it on a clearomizer. Madvapes has the shorty cone for tanks and it takes care of it for my clearomizers. $1.49 is the cost. You will like the dct you got.
Good to hear a good post on it. Ill give it a try as its on the way. Hope its here tomorrow.
Any of you tube owners use a smaller more cigarette looking like ecig in public and use your tube for home use? I can just see people thinking I'm smoking a SS .... or crack pipe if I bust out my SS vtube in out public
I use a full size, black Vtube all over the place in public. Never had the problem you fear, AFAIK. I don't care anyway and, once you've got some vape time with it, you probably won't either. Everyone feels like that at first. Almost everyone gets over it, often sooner than they think.
Personally, I'd never want to vape anything that looks like a cigarette in public. I'd rather be mistaken for consuming something else. There's less stigma attached and nobody bothers you trying to bum a smoke or a light.
Personally, I'd never want to vape anything that looks like a cigarette in public. I'd rather be mistaken for consuming something else. There's less stigma attached and nobody bothers you trying to bum a smoke or a light.
The vivi nova v2 will fire on my ss LT but there is no draw on it. I read some other people having this problem too. The only way I could draw off of it was to put the adapter on it. I don't know why this is but I think it has something to do with the built in ego adapter on it maybe..
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I really like the DCT on my vtube. The dual coil carto's that come with the DCT will work. Even the 1.5 will work and it won't be terrible, just not that great. You can't run the V-tube over 3.7v with a 1.5ohm dual coil. If you want a really good vape out of a V-tube with a DCT get boge xl 3 ohm single coil cartomizers. You will have to punch holes or slot them yourself, but you can get all the way up to 6 volts with them if you wanted to, and they are great carto's. The ViVi Nova is fantastic on the V-tube. That's all I use now unless i'm dripping. Also the atomizer you get with the kit will surprise you. After you break it in it is a pretty good atty for dripping. Just peel off the black sticker on it and it will match your Stainless steel too.
I am definitely bookmarking this post! Ordering a SS VTube next week and good to know what to order with it, especially the 3.0 SR cartos, already ordering a 510 to 510 extender for my visions. Once again ECF and it's users deliver.
Ok guys just got my newbss vtube. Atomizer works fine but I can't get the dct to work. No draw at all. When I screw it into place it does not stop just keeps spinning? Is this normal? Very ...... off right now. Wasted almost 15 ml of juice trying to get this crap to work. Horrible experience so far.
Are you sure it is the DCT tank like this: Dual Coil Tank Cartomizer. If so, there is no reason it shouldn't screw onto your VTube, especially since your atomizer screws on and it has the same connection.
its screws in but does not stop. just keeps spinning
edit: and yes it is that exact tank
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I just got the ss vtube and I'm using the Tank Replacement Dual Coil Cartomizer 2.5 Ohms Single Hole in This right now. Works well for me.
A few things:
1) Is the cartomizer stationary, with the tank rotating around it after the cartomizer has been screwed all the way into the 510 connection? This, of course, would be perfectly normal, as there is nothing according to the laws of physics to prevent it.
2) Have you tried lifting the tank just slightly up and away from the top of the PV? Sometimes you just need a slight amount of clearance there to allow airflow.
3) How is the carto slotted/punched? What ratio of PG/VG are you using? High VG content sometimes requires larger-than-stock hole, or a slot. I slot my (unpunche) cartos with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel that is 1mm thick. About a 1/8" long slot does the trick on my (usually) 80/20 (PG/VG) juices.
4) Has the carto been properly prepared? "Don't rush the carto". From scratch: lubricate a new carto with some juice and slide it in from the bottom of the tank until it's just below the top of the tank, allowing enough space - at least 1/4" or so - between the top of the carto and the bottom of the upper cap. Fill the tank to just below the top of the carto, put about 15 drops of juice directly into the carto, slide the carto up through the top cap, and WAIT. Wait at least 5 minutes or so for the juice to work its way down from the top, and in from the tank. Wait until just a little juice starts to drip out the bottom of the 510 connection. At this point, the level of juice in the tank has usually gone down a bit from the juice entering the hole from the tank. Top it off one more time, being careful not to pour juice directly into the top of the carto (although a few - 5 or so - intentional drops are usually OK at this point, especially if the top of the carto looks fairly dry. You do NOT want to have the top of the carto remain soggy for very long at all, or there will be much gurgling and sucking in of juice going on.
At this point, fire it off at a low-ish setting and see how the draw and vapor production is. You do NOT want to fire a coil that is in contact with polyfill that is too dry, or you might never get rid of the burnt taste.
5) If you can't get the tank off the PV, just remove the drip tip from the carto and gently grip te part of the carto that sticks up out of the top of the tank with pliers and unscrew the carto; the tank will come with it. Been there, done that.
I'm pretty sure you'll get the hang of it and be vaping like a champ in no time.
*****
Lastly - Did anyone see this on the Apollo website?
Promotion: You can use code 'vtube30' to get 30% discount while our vtube stock lasts.
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Thanks for the great tips. Will try a New carto. Maybe its just faulty. Its basically just makes a gurgle sound but no draw. Also is it normal for my atomizer to gurgle so much?
The tank does spin freely while it is place but a Rep I chatted with told me that I should screw on the tank and it should stop and not continually spin. So I'm not sure what is going on
The tank does spin freely while it is place but a Rep I chatted with told me that I should screw on the tank and it should stop and not continually spin. So I'm not sure what is going on
Is it the tank spinning on the carto, or the carto not screwing tightly onto the VTube's 510 connection?
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