Stealth button not adjustable?

[NatureBoy]

I tried to adjust the throw on the button but the little nut (the really thin one) doesn't budge.. it's not even on the threads, so it can't turn at all. I also scratched the tubing a little bit because the button was so damn ridiculously tight on it, I had to use pliers (I did use a towel to protect the tubing, but it didn't work).

As it is right now, there's virtually no throw on the button... maybe 1mm at the most.. don't really like the way it feels.

Suggestions?

 

[fright88]

Someone said they found a very small o ring 1mm or less that you can put on under the button. All of the new style buttons are not adjustable. Imeo has mentioned he might make some more old style buttons which I am hoping are adjustable but not sure where that is right now.

 

[NatureBoy]

I was hoping I was just missing something.... this is disappointing.

Thanks for clearing it up for me anyway. Wish I'd asked before taking it off.. could've prevented the scratches (they're not serious, but still...).

 

[imeothanasis]

there is no reason to unscrew button like this nature. You unscrew the locking nut until it locks and then you keep unscrewing it until the whole button comes off. Dont try again to use pliers on the very thin nut because you will scratch again the tube. As for the throw of the button, its fixed now because that way we made the button 2mm shorter

 

[lawnman3]

imeo could you bring back the older longer throw flat and rounded buttons... they were the best in my opp...

even a new longer throw button same style we have now on the current ss ggts would be great...?????????????

 

[imeothanasis]

new buttons that I made are the same height as the previous ones but they have the half of roundness on its head (so the are almost flat) and its roundness doesnt stop at the end of the head (so even if its polygonal, its ungles are not sharp now) but 1mm before its end. Also it has bigger neck to go deeper on the case of the button so smoother operation and better connection because it pushes harder the spring. And the spring is made out of Brass this time for even better electrical connection. And the pin of the button and the axis on the front cap are made from pure cooper, so the connection between them is the best ever law.

 

[fright88]

new buttons that I made are the same height as the previous ones but they have the half of roundness on its head (so the are almost flat) and its roundness doesnt stop at the end of the head (so even if its polygonal, its ungles are not sharp now) but 1mm before its end. Also it has bigger neck to go deeper on the case of the button so smoother operation and better connection because it pushes harder the spring. And the spring is made out of Brass this time for even better electrical connection. And the pin of the button and the axis on the front cap are made from pure cooper, so the connection between them is the best ever law.

When can we hope to see these ship Imeo they sound great. Also are they SS or all Brass and are they adjustable will you take pics or make a video if and when you have time please?

 

[imeothanasis]

Also I forgot to say that the locking ring is now steel too. But they are not adjustable fright. Its head stays steel and the locking ring is now steel too. This button will be put on the Stealth's batch that I am making now

 

[NatureBoy]

Do the new buttons have a longer throw?

 

[imeothanasis]

No Nature. exactly the same small path as the previous ones.

 

[thedudeabides]

Hey Imeo, can you offer buttons for sale alone as well? These sound great, but I don't need another stealth

 

[imeothanasis]

sure thedude. I was always doing that but I was running out of them the last 1 month. But they will available again together with the stealth batch

 

[NatureBoy]

No Nature. exactly the same small path as the previous ones.

Is there any way to modify the center post so that it can travel a bit further to give a more sure button feel? I don't mean to complain, I just like to feel like I'm pressing a button in a bit more than this one feels like.

 

[imeothanasis]

The only way is to put an o-ring under the thin nut Nature

 

[NatureBoy]

Alright, I think an o-ring might be too thick, but perhaps I can find a tiny washer instead.

Does the new button look different than the one I have on my Stealth?

 

[silentt]

A very thin small o-ring would do the trick. Just have to figure out the correct size the other person used

 

[Major]

Also, if you have any old clearomizer CE2's laying around, there is a clear washer type deal some of the older revisions. It is not in all so maybe I just got lucky. It almost feels like a polymer or resin than rubber or silica based.

It adds about 1mm when placed under the star washer and tightened. Others have said that the ones they have tried "squish" out and after taking a couple of others apart, I can see what they mean.

But it does work. I am a pack rat and hoarder of things that have any possible use so I am looking for another. I do feel that a simple polymer washer or delrin type material would have sufficient "give" to serve the purpose without splitting. It is a fine line between being too sfot and too hard/brittle.

I will make it a point to try and find a readily available one even if it isn't a translucent color. For the convenience of the extra throw, I think many would like to make use of one. I would also ask anyone that finds something similar to please post it on this thread so we can all share the benefits!

 

[Major]

Alright, I think an o-ring might be too thick, but perhaps I can find a tiny washer instead.

Does the new button look different than the one I have on my Stealth?

From Imeo's description it sounds like it is the same height with adjustments to the button top as to feel making it less round at its cap surface and less sharp at the polygonal edge. I too am anxious to see and use this new button. The new brass spring combined with the pure copper contact should insure maximum conductivity.

 

[Para]

Here's another option:

Take some thin wire lead free solder (radio shack) and wrap a few coils around the tip of a pair of tweezers making a ball. Press the ball of solder into the threaded section of the button cap. Because it's so soft and pliable it won't damage the threads and will mold itself when you screw in the plunger. Also, it's easy to remove if you get tired of it.

More makes the button higher....less for lower. When you get the height where you want it, assemble the switch, give it a good twist so it's good and tight, and put it on the tube. Just make sure you don't make the button top too high otherwise the knurled locking ring will unscrew before it locks.

It's invisible, removable, and doesn't damage the switch.

 

[thedudeabides]

sure thedude. I was always doing that but I was running out of them the last 1 month. But they will available again together with the stealth batch

You're the best Imeo, thanks!