Sterilising tools

Status
Not open for further replies.

Think Tink

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 6, 2009
86
3
Vancouver, Canada
I have a 500ml bottle of 24mg VG that we are about to start using, and I want to make sure I keep it as clean as possible.

I have a plastic syringe that I picked up for DIY and I'm wondering what the best way is to make sure that it's sterile before I suck VG liquid into it.

I have a box of sterile needle tips to use so I know they're clean, I'll just use them once and throw them into a sharps container, it's the syringe I'm worried about, it's more expensive to replace every time I want to pull 30ml out of the big bottle.

Thanks in advance :)
 
Last edited:

Kewtsquirrel

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 21, 2009
455
3
DFW, TX
moddersupply.com
Build yourself a UV sterilizing box, make the entire interior reflective, and plug in one of these:
GE 11080 G30T8 Germicidal Fluorescent Light Bulb at eLightBulbs.com

UVC is some nasty stuff, and it'll kill just about anything you'd worry about, just make sure you have an on/off switch connected to the door so you don't fry yourself ^_^
 

TJPatt72

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 17, 2009
128
2
Tx
Thought regular store bought bleech was weaker than 10%, but may be thinking of a higher percentage-this stuff will knock your socks off. Vets use it too for serilization.

PM you again and couldn't get it to go through with the problem attached. Will contact the mod & Scubabatdan (failed 2 days ago when I tried just like it did with you) later. Have to feed the crew before I become dinner in little while.
 

Scottes

Super Member
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 31, 2009
914
27
Boston, MA
scottesrum.com
I just found another site on this Bleach stuff... I guess I should do more research before making recommendations. All I've ever done over the years is grab Chlorox mixed in a 10% solution, but apparently there's more to it than that.

The following concerns the purification of water, but brings up some questions concerning the use of bleach for sterilizing DIY tools.
1. Chlorine bleach - Household bleach is a good disinfectant for water. Before using, check the label to be sure hypochlorite is the only active ingredient in the bleach. Do not use bleach that contains soap. Since the amount of chlorine in bleach is variable, use the following table to determine the appropriate amount needed to purify water. Mix the bleach thoroughly in the water and let it stand for 30 minutes. The water should have a slight chlorine odor. If it doesn't, repeat the dose and let the water stand for an additional 15 minutes.

Percent chlorine / Add per gallon water
------------------------
1% / 40 drops
2 to 6% / 8 drops
7to10% / 4drops
unknown / 10 drops
From: FOOD SAFETY
 

tankueray

Full Member
Oct 17, 2009
32
0
West Texas
(In Texas:)

List of bleaches that have the right properties for use in disinfecting water that is to be used for drinking, preparing foods, or other forms of consumption.
When used to treat water supplied by public water systems, liquid bleaches must conform to American National Standards Institute / National Sanitation Foundation (ANSI/NSF) Standard 60.
How Can I Tell?

If the label does not indicate that the bleach meets NSF Standard 60, check our list of other approved bleaches.
NSF-Certified Bleaches

NSF-certified bleaches are marked as follows:

  • The label will read, “meets NSF Standard 60.”
  • Or the label will show the NSF symbol
  • Or both.
Other Acceptable Bleaches

Although these brands of bleach are not certified by ANSI/NSF, they are manufactured to the same standards and may be used as a disinfectant for public water systems:

  • Always Save
  • AmChoice
  • American Fare (K-Mart)
  • Boardwalk
  • Big 8
  • Bolt
  • DG American Value
  • Fiesta Mart
  • Great Value Home Bleach (Wal-Mart)
  • HiLex
  • Hill Country Fare (HEB)
  • HyTop
  • Lasso
  • Parade
  • Reliance
  • S Mart
  • Sure Klean
  • Shurfine
A 10% solution corresponds to 1 and a half cups of household bleach per gallon of water, or 1 part bleach to nine parts water.
 
I would think the easiest thing, and the cheapest thing to do is have dedicated syringes and needles for each ingredient, and only use those syringes for that ingredient. DO NOT mix them.
Syringes are cheap.
Bleach scares me.
If i was going to sterilize, i would rinse in alcohol.
Or purchase smaller holders, like rinse jars, that you can dispense out of into marked containers.
 

Scottes

Super Member
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 31, 2009
914
27
Boston, MA
scottesrum.com
Yep, alcohol is a better choice. But ridiculously expensive in comparison. A quart of vodka (will 80 proof suffice?) will set you back about $8, PGA closer to $30, whereas bleach solution costs pennies. And you will need enough to soak things in, so a fifth of booze would be needed.

But yes, alcohol is a better choice for us.

Dedicated syringes don't cut it, IMHO. They get flavoring/PG/VG/nic-juice into places that are hard to clean. Leaving them lying around between uses is not such a good idea.

IMHO.

I may just go out and buy a fifth of cheap vodka though. This thread does have me thinking about this subject a bit deeper.
 

Think Tink

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 6, 2009
86
3
Vancouver, Canada
Thank you for all the replies, I'm really interested in making sure that everything stays totally clean. I don't really like the idea of using bleach. I use 80 proof vodka for cleaning my carts and filler, but alcohol is sin taxed to $1.00 an ounce here, very expensive for a cleaning agent.

What about rubbing alcohol? I have 90% so most of it should evaporate off as it dries, are there health concerns with what might be left on the tools?

Another option would be to find a small metal or glass funnel that could be boiled before use.
 
Last edited:

them0nk

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 7, 2009
395
6
44
San Bernardino, CA
i gave up on syringes... the graduations wore off in a very short time., and i couldn't really tell exactly how to measure Accurately with them... i make really small batches to try juices out right now, till i get my daily juice found.

check out the the Online Science Mall for "pipettes" i got myself 4ea 2ml glass pipettes and a 2ml pump (you can use bigger pumps... they all have the same size tube on the connection end...) and a couple other sizes for myself... other than them being numbered sort of oddly - i had never used them before... and they're WAY bigger than i expected... the 2ml pipette is like 14 inches long + pump... makes it sort of weird to work with. but they're glass and wont store flavors. i try not to contaminate mixes with other flavors as much as possible. but they're Really accurate. i'm happy i got them... just can't really take them out of the house. they range up to 25ml on that site. i didn't find any bigger ones anywhere else easily so i stuck with the 25ml pipette & 25ml pump to do my cut down batches accurately.

i found everclear (151 proof grain alcohol) at bevmo which was fairly cheap like 15 dollars or something. i put a shot of that in a shot glass, rinse the pipette out a few times with it, then rinse out well with some distilled water in a big glass next to it.

i'm not dead yet, or sick... so i dont really plan on changing my routine...
 

Scottes

Super Member
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 31, 2009
914
27
Boston, MA
scottesrum.com
So I've spent a couple hours researching this whole sterilization thing, concentrating on food-safe sterilization that can be done in a typical household (which rules out autoclaves). I concentrated on web sites from US Government agencies, colleges, and hospitals. Some other sites were perused hoping to find reference links to the above type of sites.


This is hardly complete, and may contain errors. I'm hoping that someone more knowledgable than me can shed some light on any particular point. Use at your own risk.


Also note that there are different strengths of cleaning:
Rinsing - with water
Cleaning - with soap and water
Sanitizing - killing bacteria and most other germs, but not necessarily fungi and spores
Sterilization - Killing most everything, but not porins


I'm trying to concentrate on Sterilization, but am finding that most of these solutions really do only sanitization for most of us with reasonable, feasible means. We probably don't need to use sterile items anyway - though it's always better to be safe.


Sterilization / Sanitization Methods
Irradiation: Beyond our means.

Dry heat (oven): 340F for 1 hour, 250F for 12 hours. Not good for many plastic items like bottles and disposable pipettes and eye-dropper caps and bulbs.

Boiling: Full boil for 20 minutes. Might be too hot for most plastic items we use, especially if they touch the hotter sides or bottom of the pot used. I may run a test if I get a chance. Even if HDPE and LDPE bottles can handle the high temps, the process will probably stress the seams and possibly deform the items. I doubt that this would work well on "rubber" eye-dropper bulbs.

Steam Heat (autoclave, pressure cooker): Autoclaves are not feasible for almost all of us. A pressure cooker could be used, but again it's not safe for most plastic items we use because of the heat required. Pressure Cookers reach a temperature of 250F or 121C at a pressure of 15 pounds and requires 30 minutes for the process to be effective.

Ultraviolet Light (See Nerf's post above): Great for clear items, like glass tubes. Hard to get into all areas inside bottles and opague items like eye-dropper bulbs. May not work through "clear" bottles or disposable pipettes which are really semi-transparent plastic. May work, but I can't find any information about how well ultraviolet light works through such semi-transparent plastics.

Microwaving: Microwaving for sterilization really works by heating, not irradiation. Microwave a damp sponge for 2 minutes and damn near everything will be dead except some porins and the toughest germs (like tuberculosis). Because of the heat required this is probably not good for most plastics we use.

Hydrogen peroxide: Typical 3% solution, the common stuff found in any store, works great. If the substance can handle the heavy oxidation, which I doubt is true considering that LDPE is permeable to oxygen. Hoever, hydrogen perozide comes in a plastic bottle - perhaps HDPE or PET? I don't know. Even if it is OK for the plastics we use, the fumes can be dangerous even in very low concentrations, so I have to consider hydrogen peroxide to be unsafe and not recommended.

Bleach solution: Bleach is a pretty thorough disinfectant. It is also a powerful oxidizing agent, so it might have similar tendencies to hydrogen peroxide above. However, household bleach is generally a 5% solution of sodium hypochlorite and we don't use that straight. Diluted even further to a 10% bleach solution, the sodium hypochlorite is reduced to a 0.5% solution, 1/6 of the common hydrogen peroxide solution. Even still, it's a powerful oxidizer and may cause issues with oxygen-permeable LDPE bottles and disposable pipettes. I guess this is out.

Alcohol (Isopropyl and rubbing alcohol) - For external use only, so they're out.

Alcohol (vodka or pure grain) - This stuff won't sterilize, but does a very good job of sanitizing if the alcholo is high proof and/or items are given a long soak. It can be ingested, and isn't considered harmful for inhalation as far as I know. This is probably the safest of the strong cleaning methods, even though it doesn't reach sterilization levels. Use the highest proof you can get and/or afford, and soak for a long time - at least overnight, but I've seen references that state 12 hours when using low-proof alcohol (which I assume means 80-proof). Even if we don't need the proof or time, it's better to be safe than sorry.


Summary

Boiling needs some investigation and testing.

If the boiling tests fail, alcohol - vodka or PGA - seems to be the strongest cleaning method which remains feasible to most of us.


Alcohol Cleaning Methodology
(Just my opinions)

1. Rinse with tap water
2. Fully submerge items in a soap & tap water solution. Agitate somehow to get coverage. Let soak for some time. (How long? 5 or 10 minutes?)
3. Rinse with tap water
4. Final rinse with distilled water
5. Fully submerge items in alcohol (vodka/PGA) in a covered container. Use the highest proof you can do, at least overnight but preferably 12 hours.
6. Rinse thoroughly with distilled water?
7. Air dry or very low-temp oven (150F)



Sound right? Am I missing anything? Any comments?
 

Angela

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 20, 2009
1,219
26
59
Hertfordshire, England
Has anybody done any research into Milton? (You know, the stuff used to sterilize baby bottles).

This is something I have been meaning to look into...... maybe I will now :D

EDIT: Description on first site I looked at...

"Family protection from germs. The Milton method has been used in hospitals or over 50 years. Non-toxic, leaves no unpleasant taste or odour. Use it for kitchen or nursery hygiene, to sanitise bottles and utensils, to disinfect plastic bins, pet bowls etc. Can also be used to make water safe for drinking."

Looks good at first glance.
 

Angela

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 20, 2009
1,219
26
59
Hertfordshire, England
I've just had a decent read on the milton website, and it looks like it may be perfect for our purposes.

It can be bought in fluid or tablet form, is added to cold water, only takes 15 minutes to work, and bottles/utensils, etc do not even need to be rinsed afterwards. :D Oh, and it's pretty cheap too. :D

Anyone wanting to have a read for themselves: Ceuta Milton | Milton- cold water Sterilising and home hygiene

I assume that Milton is available in most countries worldwide?
 

Scottes

Super Member
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 31, 2009
914
27
Boston, MA
scottesrum.com
Very nice find Angela!


And you've more or less confirmed my original hypothesis, though in a safer form. From their FAQ:

What is Milton Sterilising Fluid made of?

Milton Fluid is made of an aqueous solution of sodium hypochlorite and 16.5% sodium chloride. The Milton Fluid that is available to buy is a strength of 2% sodium hypochlorite.


It's basically bleach.


Here's Clorox's ingredient list:

Clorox® Regular-Bleach
Water
Sodium hypochlorite <<<
Sodium chloride <<<
Sodium carbonate
Sodium hydroxide
Sodium polyacrylate


However I - and probably most others - would prefer a known baby-safe sterilization product over bleach.

Great find!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread