Stingray X Ti Switch trow adjustment (black derlin)

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tom79

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Mar 21, 2011
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I picked up my first mechanical a few days ago and I am having troubles with the switch. I have watched some videos on cleaning, smoothing it down, lubricating etc. Most of these had a different design of the switch with a white delrin part which was somewhat adjustable. My switch seems to be almost always in contact with battery (ON), even when the locking ring is on and I am not pressing hard. It looks as if the silver plated screw contact is too large, too thick. It is sitting pretty close with the face of the derlin, which is black and of a different design. Can it be adjusted, to provide a little bit more clearance and trow to the switch? I know that I scratched the plating on the pin a little and that it sticks out a bit, I will clean it up tomorrow, but that does not change the fact that there is pretty much no trow there to start with. This is with a button top battery, which was suppose to work in it, apparently. Any tips, please?

IMG_4579.jpg
 

Mrez

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Same problem I had with my stingray x. Easy fix, disassemble the switch (don't loose the rice pin), take a small flat head screw driver and pop the delrin up and off. Find a spare thin o ring from an atty and fit it where the delrin ring was. You might need to trim 1 or 2 mm so it doesn't bunch. Once the o ring is in, press fit the delrin back in, you should now have a mm or two raise from the top of the copper portion of the switch. While you have the switch taken apart, use a file to sand down the housing on the lower part of the switch and rub pencil lead around the two parts that fit together. You'll get a nice smooth throw. I did this on mine a bit over a month ago and it still throws smooth. Still gotta hit it center, but its a nice short smooth throw.
 

tom79

Full Member
Mar 21, 2011
49
6
London, UK
Same problem I had with my stingray x. Easy fix, disassemble the switch (don't loose the rice pin), take a small flat head screw driver and pop the delrin up and off. Find a spare thin o ring from an atty and fit it where the delrin ring was. You might need to trim 1 or 2 mm so it doesn't bunch. Once the o ring is in, press fit the delrin back in, you should now have a mm or two raise from the top of the copper portion of the switch. While you have the switch taken apart, use a file to sand down the housing on the lower part of the switch and rub pencil lead around the two parts that fit together. You'll get a nice smooth throw. I did this on mine a bit over a month ago and it still throws smooth. Still gotta hit it center, but its a nice short smooth throw.

Thank you very much, this is what I was looking for. I thought it was screwed in, but now I see that I only need to pop it up. I did not want to break it by trying to work out how it was fitted. I will report back once I will have done it. I expect it will work well! Cheers
 

Mrez

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Good luck with it. The only thing I don't like about my stingrayX is the color ( i got the black one and regretted it), and the fact the certain atty's with long pins require me to unscrew the switch a bit to get a flush fit, which means I can see the gap between the switch and the mod, and occasionally some threading. Makes me nuts.
 

cmangoboogie

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Jul 3, 2014
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buffalo, NY
I picked up my first mechanical a few days ago and I am having troubles with the switch. I have watched some videos on cleaning, smoothing it down, lubricating etc. Most of these had a different design of the switch with a white delrin part which was somewhat adjustable. My switch seems to be almost always in contact with battery (ON), even when the locking ring is on and I am not pressing hard. It looks as if the silver plated screw contact is too large, too thick. It is sitting pretty close with the face of the derlin, which is black and of a different design. Can it be adjusted, to provide a little bit more clearance and trow to the switch? I know that I scratched the plating on the pin a little and that it sticks out a bit, I will clean it up tomorrow, but that does not change the fact that there is pretty much no trow there to start with. This is with a button top battery, which was suppose to work in it, apparently. Any tips, please?

View attachment 389365
I got the same one as you. Ive watched several videos on this thing and tried taking it apart prior to watchimg any videos (my fault).
Now the button doesn't seem to magnetize at all .
Is there supposed to be a spring ?
Ive seen other people be able to push the copper part up and down on there bottom switch.
Here's a picture of what I got left after I took it apart.
Like I said not sure where these two metal o ring magnets go, on the very bottom of the plate or do they go up inside?
d966373a6c5c0954efc4be669cca30b2.jpg


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cmangoboogie

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Jul 3, 2014
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2a0f2eeaec7a3002b0b2bde035d30d92.jpg

Now I busted one of these magnetic o rings.
..........
Idk where these belong in 're assembly .
Little help please?
Did I get a bad knock off , thinking that might be possible .
All the other ones Ive seen have a white plastic looking part on the top of the button where ours are black.
Hhhhmm

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Mrez

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Sounds like the magnets didn't have the correct polarity ( repelling one another as opposed to attracting). When you put them in they probably clicked together and broke one of the rings. The good news is the mag that fit into the top piece of the switch isn't glue down so if you have the patience head over to fatdaddyvapes and order the magnet upgrade. When you put them in make sure they repell one another. There is a round slot on the under side of the top part of the switch, and the ring magnet just slips over the nozzel of the bottom part of the switch. If you are a little ham handed like me order a few sets of magnets just in case one breaks.
 

cmangoboogie

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Jul 3, 2014
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Sounds like the magnets didn't have the correct polarity ( repelling one another as opposed to attracting). When you put them in they probably clicked together and broke one of the rings. The good news is the mag that fit into the top piece of the switch isn't glue down so if you have the patience head over to fatdaddyvapes and order the magnet upgrade. When you put them in make sure they repell one another. There is a round slot on the under side of the top part of the switch, and the ring magnet just slips over the nozzel of the bottom part of the switch. If you are a little ham handed like me order a few sets of magnets just in case one breaks.
So those to o ring magnets are suppose to be placed inside the copper piece that has the screw in it upside down ? Do I place them so they stick together or opposite ?

Guess any working options for now till i order from fat daddy (goimg to check em out now)

Thanks

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cmangoboogie

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Jul 3, 2014
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I had it working.. I only took it apart to see what was inside . When I first took it apart though I dropped one of those rings on floor and found it a week later like ... ......was working fine . I changed atty from kayfun to orchid and now it sticks or won't fire at all.
So thsts when i took it aprat and started trying to figure the switch/magnet out.

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Mrez

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The only reason I can think of why it might stick is because the magnets facing the wrong direction. Not firing however could be the result of something not making a contact. Unscrew the switch, make sure the pin is screwed down, then screw the switch back in and tighten it down, and make sure the atty is screwed completely in first.
 

cmangoboogie

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Jul 3, 2014
209
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buffalo, NY
Sounds like the magnets didn't have the correct polarity ( repelling one another as opposed to attracting). When you put them in they probably clicked together and broke one of the rings. The good news is the mag that fit into the top piece of the switch isn't glue down so if you have the patience head over to fatdaddyvapes and order the magnet upgrade. When you put them in make sure they repell one another. There is a round slot on the under side of the top part of the switch, and the ring magnet just slips over the nozzel of the bottom part of the switch. If you are a little ham handed like me order a few sets of magnets just in case one breaks.
I checked out fatdaddyvapes im not sure which one I have. My bottom doesn't have that white piece.
Would I order both the magnets and the bottom screw replacement?
Help much appreciated if you got one from there and have the same bottom as me if u could link up the correct parts it be great.
I read the description and it makes me think mines not gonna be compatible .....i see it looks like a stainless steel piece instead of copper idk if im wrong?
6250805272121fb74c0bcf7483b19323.jpg

There's mine in one piece .


Here it is taken apart
c471b59312025dbcb5d09a282fa15824.jpg


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Mrez

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Fatdaddy Vapes doesnt have a direct link to the magnet page for the stingray x. If you scroll down in the shop section you should come to it. It's right under the nemesis section. There are two magnet sets offered, one general and one for Tobeco. If you know your mod is Tobeco, then get that magnet upgrade, otherwise go with the standard one. You are looking at specifically the stingray x upgrades..not the regular stingray. The regular stingray has a different button set up.
 

cmangoboogie

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Jul 3, 2014
209
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buffalo, NY
Fatdaddy Vapes doesnt have a direct link to the magnet page for the stingray x. If you scroll down in the shop section you should come to it. It's right under the nemesis section. There are two magnet sets offered, one general and one for Tobeco. If you know your mod is Tobeco, then get that magnet upgrade, otherwise go with the standard one. You are looking at specifically the stingray x upgrades..not the regular stingray. The regular stingray has a different button set up.
I saw two replacement o ring style magnets. But I thought I was looking for needed a whole new bottom copper insert ?
..

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Mrez

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I saw two replacement o ring style magnets. But I thought I was looking for needed a whole new bottom copper insert ?
..

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Nope..Just the magnet upgrade. Your switch is fine. Drop the new magnets in and you are good to go.
 

tom79

Full Member
Mar 21, 2011
49
6
London, UK
Mrez, thank you for your help, the switch is working now! I actually had to put a little spacer underneath the screw-in contact as the derlin part was too high after the adjustment. The switch sticks a little, I reckon it is because of the riser pin being a little too small and little too short. I will replace it when the stronger magnets from fat daddy arrive. I very happy that I can finally use it! The length of the trow is perfect. Once again, thank you for helping me.
 

Mrez

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Jul 30, 2014
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Mrez, thank you for your help, the switch is working now! I actually had to put a little spacer underneath the screw-in contact as the derlin part was too high after the adjustment. The switch sticks a little, I reckon it is because of the riser pin being a little too small and little too short. I will replace it when the stronger magnets from fat daddy arrive. I very happy that I can finally use it! The length of the trow is perfect. Once again, thank you for helping me.

My pleasure, see my original post in this thread on smoothing out the throw. And if your ordering from fatdaddy, pick up a few rice pins while your at it, never know when one is going to pop out. I recall the stingray x pin is a little short and narrow, I lost mine so I replaced with a Nemesis rice pin and its perfect.
 

cmangoboogie

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Jul 3, 2014
209
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buffalo, NY
Got mine working with the orchid on it. I also changed the top cap for the hybrid, seems that made the button move much better. Just left that one broken magnet out of the setup.
Pretty sure I got the right magnets coming from fatdaddyvapes.....I did think I needed the whole bottom replaced , but I guess not. Its working fine with the orchid on it.

Somehow the Kayfun that I was using on the stingray won't even read on my ohm meter.....I took the top of the chimney off to see if maybe it got disconnected inside but everything looked ok. I wonder what happened its got a full tank , gonna empty it and try a build later.

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