Strange DNA30 battery level behavior... anyone seen this?

Status
Not open for further replies.

eda123

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 20, 2013
589
387
Austin
OK it turned out the issue still exists.. With No-Oxide too.

I swapped out tubes (from a gunmetal to a polished steel) and also, STILL see the issue.

I have NO IDEA why it only happens with 650's. Ive gotten it with a new/authentic AW, and different 650 tubes. All show the issue. I cant run a 650 down below 3.6-3.65V without it continuously rebooting, and see the strange large battery indicator jump once the battery is about 40% depleted on the display.
 

Bmays

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
The dna boards to NOT measure current battery voltage, I.e. true battery level. This has been verified by evolv.

The boards use a "calculated" measurement based on your current wattage setting. So, by switching wattage (lower) , you notice the battery indicator increases.

Folks can slim up their devices, and that may prevent corrosion in the long run, but it will not resolve the questions at hand.

I'm not sure I like the way these boards work myself. But everyone's here is functioning as designed.

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk 2
 

eda123

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 20, 2013
589
387
Austin
The dna boards to NOT measure current battery voltage, I.e. true battery level. This has been verified by evolv.

The boards use a "calculated" measurement based on your current wattage setting. So, by switching wattage (lower) , you notice the battery indicator increases.

Folks can slim up their devices, and that may prevent corrosion in the long run, but it will not resolve the questions at hand.

I'm not sure I like the way these boards work myself. But everyone's here is functioning as designed.

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk 2






I don't know that its working as designed. I've been in contact with Brandon at Evolv and he says this isn't normal or expected.
 

Technonut

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 11, 2010
5,090
7,290
62
East Coast, USA
I received my Hana v3 close to a month ago from the initial January 15th release. I've used both Panny NCR18650PF's, and Sony VTC4's during this time with no unusual issues involving the battery level indicator. I've always pulled the battery, or used the onboard charger before allowing it to go completely dead.... When I barely see some indicator left, and pull the battery, my Xtar VP1 reads around 3.5v.

Next time, I'll let the mod go completely dead to check the voltage. IIRC, the Hana v2 I had before was no different than this v3 regarding the battery level indicator.
 

brekec88

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 14, 2014
431
367
US
Yea mine reads a little wonky sometimes with the non AW IMR 18650's I use. AW IMR nipple top 18650 don't fit right in my 18650 tube if i put it in the zna or with a zen bottom firing switch. Well it fits but it doesn't screw down all the way leaving a gap and makes the button hard to fire. Any one else have this problem with 18650 zenesis 2 tubes? Not really that big of deal bc I'd prefer to use flat top 18650's anyways just weird that he only recommends AW IMR 18650 in his tubes and they don't even fit right (at least mine don't).
 

Technonut

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 11, 2010
5,090
7,290
62
East Coast, USA
I received my Hana v3 close to a month ago from the initial January 15th release. I've used both Panny NCR18650PF's, and Sony VTC4's during this time with no unusual issues involving the battery level indicator. I've always pulled the battery, or used the onboard charger before allowing it to go completely dead.... When I barely see some indicator left, and pull the battery, my Xtar VP1 reads around 3.5v.

Next time, I'll let the mod go completely dead to check the voltage. IIRC, the Hana v2 I had before was no different than this v3 regarding the battery level indicator.

I allowed the v3 to run until it totally shut down twice using VTC4's.. Both times the batteries read 3.25v when placed in my Xtar VP1 charger.. Pretty efficient of the DNA 30 IMO. (The VTC4's low voltage cut-off spec is 2.5v) I didn't get weak battery warnings or anything. I continued vaping when the indicator was at it's lowest until the mod just didn't fire, and the DNA 30 would reboot.

I'm curious how the results with the NCR18650PF's will turn out now.. I'll post them within the next couple of days.
 
Last edited:

Technonut

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 11, 2010
5,090
7,290
62
East Coast, USA
What wattage we're you vaping at.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk


I was switching between two toppers.. One @ 0.7 ohms / 15 watts (when the batt was low enough to run 15 watts), the other @ 1.8 ohms / 10 watts....

I have some VTC5's coming in today to throw into the mix.. Hopefully, I'll notice the extra mAh...
 
Last edited:

Daytonajim

Full Member
Feb 23, 2014
43
15
Arizona
I was switching between two toppers.. One @ 0.7 ohms / 15 watts (when the batt was low enough to run 15 watts), the other @ 1.8 ohms / 10 watts....

I have some VTC5's coming in today to throw into the mix.. Hopefully, I'll notice the extra mAh...

Could you do me a favor and vape your .7 ohm build at 17w and when it won't fire any more pull your battery and check the voltage.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
 

dice57

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 1, 2013
4,960
3,734
68
Mount Vernon, Wa
My experience using 30 & 35 amp batteries, can run locked at 30 watts till the battery is down to 3.5 volts. I did try some aw 10 amp 18650's but once down to 3.9 volts it could not generate enough to power at 30 watts. There's just more usable power with the higher amp batteries. Using the VTC4 and E.Purple with great performance.

Have also found by running in stealth mode I get more sustainable vape with out any interrupt till down to 3.55 volts. With the screen on, I will occasionally get an interrupt. So I just power lock at 30 watts and run stealth, if my builds can't handle 30 watts then it's time to re-wick or rebuild. lol.
 

Riverboat

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 15, 2012
4,014
3,111
Arizona
Hi all,

In the last few days ive noticed an odd thing with one of my DNA30 devices.

On Friday:

  • I put a full battery in, and when it reads about half-full on the display after a few hrs of vaping, it started showing the battery level fully depleted.
  • Then when I fire it, it shoots back up to around 50%.
  • Then when not firing, it watched the display and it went back down, to say 10%.
  • Then i fire it, and it shoots back up to 50%.

Yesterday I didnt see this at all.

This morning:
  • A battery was showing nearly fully depleted on the display (pretty much 0%).
  • I put it in the charger, and the charger read 3.6V?
  • I put it back in the mod, and now it wasnt showing a depleted battery. Maybe 20%.
  • I vaped it until it wouldnt fire anymore, put it on the charger, and it read 3.55V.

What the heck?

I guess it could be one of my batteries has an issue (ill have to start tracking which battery/batteries show this), but has anyone else seen this?
I own a ZNA.. With an AW IMR 2000 mAh battery I am able to get 12 hours of vape time using a HH357 3.0 atomizer @ 12.5 watts.. At around the 12 hour mark it showed that the battery was low.. Took it out of the ZNA and checked the voltage...3.6 volts.. That's a good thing because you really don't want to discharge the battery much lower then that.. Sounds like your batteries are either real old or improperly charged ? I use a PILA charger. A good charger makes all the difference in the world..
 
Last edited:

Technonut

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 11, 2010
5,090
7,290
62
East Coast, USA
I just tried one of the Sony VTC5's... I didn't officially time it, but did seem to notice some additional run-time over the VTC4. Cut-off voltage was the same 3.4v like the VTC4's. This was with a 0.7 dual coil dripper @ 17.5 watts.

The low voltage cut-off spec on the Sony VTC4 (and 5) is 2.5v... 3.4v is efficient use of the battery, and good enough for me. ;)
 

Daytonajim

Full Member
Feb 23, 2014
43
15
Arizona
Ok so last night i got 2 new sony vtc5 2600 and charged them. I vape for about 30 min and it stopped working, so I checked the battery and it was at 4.1v. So I got mad at that point because I knew that something was wrong. I took the hana apart and fired it while I wiggled the wires and it started working again so I pulled off some of the hot gun glue off the board to check the solder and it just started working after that? The main battery wires to the board look like my six year old solderd them but the rest look good. The battery indicator is going down now and I am actually still using the same battery on the first charge! Now I am a happy camper its actually working like I thought it should! I am not sure what fixed it but I will keep my fingers crossed that it keeps working. Thanks for all of your guys help!

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
 

brekec88

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 14, 2014
431
367
US
My ZNA (with 18490 and 18650) starts resetting and not firing right at 3.6 v every time. I'm using AW IMR's and charging with a Xtrar VP1 at 1.0 A. I'm going to try charging at .5 A and see if that helps (all I can think of doing). Also going to try nolax. I've tried using multiple batteries and just can't think what else might be the problem. Gonna have to give Mike a call if that doesn't help. Has anyone talked to him about this issue?


Edit: Someone a couple pages back mentioned unscrewing bottom and then screwing it back in and oddly enough it did work. Will post how well it keeps working after a days use.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread