Straw vs Solid?

[93gc40]

When do you use one vs the other? Why one over the other?
I get using less dense mesh for thicker juices. I don't really understand the rolling the mesh into a straw vs solid log. Does juice get draw up the straw? Does the log hold more juice or heat differently?

I have a Sat22, that I use as my at home tasty vape.... Current build is 4wraps of 32Kan for 1.86ohm on 400mesh straw using 75pg/25vg juice. I generally build at above 1ohm, for my ADV squonker. I like the flavor and vape I'm getting for a hit or 2. But the wicking just doesn't seem to be keeping up for me. dry and hot hits, often. Have to almost vape upside down to not get a dry hit. Not train puffing but 3-4 hits over a minute or so will result in a hot hit here and there after the 3rd.

 

[yourgurnard]

I was hoping that the Genny 'Old Hands' would've been on with their experience by now...'fraid I've got nothing constructive to add 'cos I get the same results regardless of mesh gauge & ditto straw or solid!
...& as for mesh inside mesh...wtf?!

 

[93gc40]

Yeah, I was hoping to spark something.
Love the flavor from Both of my Genny tanks. The other is a Steam Turbine that I wick with silica. Just can't get the mesh wicking down good enough to use either as an ADV.

 

[Vaya]

I can weigh in a little here.

In my experience, straw wicks (using coarser mesh [200/325]) work better for sucking up and retaining the relative globiness that are higher VG-based liquids.

The finer grade meshes (400 + 500) provide simple wicking - like water on a fine screen door - and at a more concentrated level and faster rate the closer that large a number of holes are together. One hole might contribute juice upwards to the hole above it, while the same is happening from the sides of the first hole, and - due to the tighter stick - from front to and back as well. Thinner PG juices work the best for this type of wicking, providing (in my opinion) the truest form of what some call "capillary action" - the upwards movement of a substance between small spaces without the assistance of gravity - and sometimes even against it.

Both types of their place - it simply depends on what type of juice you vape. Additionally, the type of atomizer may play a factor, as coarser wicks with larger centers TEND to be larger, requiring less wraps to achieve a desirable ohm, though this is not always the case. Some atomizers (the DID being one of the leaders) actually require a large wick hole, and so the composition of the wick bears little impact when comparing a straw to a stick.

Hope my experience, and methods of conveying it, made some sense.

Much love.

The other is a Steam Turbine that I wick with silica. Just can't get the mesh wicking down good enough to use either as an ADV.

I found getting this one 'right' tricky, too. The trick is to use 5 or 6 wraps of a high gauge wire (32 or 30 - my preference] around a small sleeve of mesh and something like 30mm length of 1/16th SS cable. At one point I thought about trading it away... now I frequently use it as an ADV (today, in fact!)

 

[93gc40]

Actually I find the Trbine easy to wick. BECAUSE it can use both cotton and silica.. I just can't get it to work good on mesh. The Sat22 ONLY accept mesh.

 

[Collperson]

I have been using gennys only for a little over a year now. Not exactly an expert but I have some thoughts.

I found that the mesh number made little difference, ive tried 325, 400, and 500. I have the most experience with the 500 but recently took a liking to the 325, it seemed to get wetter and hold more juice once soaked. I never had issues with the 500 just seemed better with the 325.

For wick thickness I would try to roll as much mesh as I could get into the wick hole while keeping a small gap around the wick to the wick hole... the wick should slide into the hole freely. I never found any benefit to having a hole down the middle of the wick. It seems the juice just boils over the top if the wick is a straw. Not really desired... it can splash your lips or leak out the air holes.

I am thinking your hot hits are caused by the hot top leg, it can be easy to brush off as not enough juice but it is probably an issue with the coil. You should be making a thick wick(i use a 2.5 inch wide piece of mesh for a 3/32" wick hole), make sure you dont have airlock in the juice tank(caused by no breather hole and/or wicks to tight in the wick hole) and lastly make sure to oxidize the part of the wick that touches the coil or atomizer deck that could cause a short.

The coil should be fairly tight against the wick as much as possible. If you see light between the coil and the mesh that will be a hot spot. Prime the coils with a dry wick and make sure it lights evenly. Let it cool down try priming the coils again and observe that the wire still glows evenly. Last trick I learned recently is the way you wrap your coil around the positive post can fix a ton of little issues. Ie clockwise vs counter clockwise. Try both ways, sometimes the one that makes sense doesn't work and you have to go opposite. My Kraken I have to wrap clockwise on the negative post and also clockwise on the positive. My steamboy I have to wrap counter and counter clockwise respectively. For a year I was wrapping my steamboy counter-negative and clockwise-positive and I had hot top leg occasionally. It is much easier to wrap the positive clockwise so I figured that was the way. It seems you want the positive lead to cross between the mesh and the post not around it. Also use a small flathead or nail to push in the bottom leg and top leg so the wire is touching the wick as much as possible. the video I posted shows what I am talking about with the wire. This is a genny with fc2000 wick not mesh but the wiring method still applies. Hope this helps!

 

[homeuser6]

my sat22s have the wick hole drilled to 3mm and three 1mm air holes. i use 3mm hollow ekowool with a .053 sewing needle in the center while wrapping 4 wraps of 32 gauge kan for 2 ohms even. with the needle pulled out it remains hollow. when i tip it with the cap off i can see the juice come up the center. the ekowool is about 3 inches long so i can pull a half inch out of the tank and cut it off when i rewind.
i use the same build on my rssts but they have four 1mm air holes and stainless steel chamber reducers.
the sats get too hot to chain vape like the rssts.

 

[BuzzKilla]

why not both?

Favorite Genesis wick?

 

[GrowthCurve]

Kinda both??
My go-to build is 275-300 mesh. Almost 40mm. Rolled around a straightened 20g wire. Results in a thick-walled straw.

After screwing around with various building methods, i settled on PetarK. 2.5mm jig. I attach the lead to the POS pin (aga T, Temon (skinny DiD-like from MMVapors)) and Bliss.
Line LE--i attach wire to deck. Wrap from the TOP down on most of my gennys. Line--neg to pos. I like 5/4 28g kan. Fire my coil a couple times.

Torch my wick, roll till it slides into coil. Mindful of a gap at the pos connection. That one's the killer. Work out any hot spots. Fill, vape.

Vape a tank of mostly vg juice. Take out wick, rinse wick and tank with tap water. Torch wick. Fire empty coil. Rinse. Fire again. Replace wick, even out coil, vape.

The mistake i have made with my Nectar--is my build resistance was 0.7Ω, with not enough mesh width-wise. So i am going to build it with a higher resistance this weekend, and roll more mesh into a thicker u-wick. I'll post pix

GC--aka DBCooper