sub ohm setup, please help!!!

[TheOtherMatty]

Hi, ok so ive been vaping for a year and obviously upgraded as ive gone, but really want to take the next step to sub ohm/ mech mod vaping,

I'm currently learning ohms law, but don't yet fully understand, but I want to sub ohm safely,

Im currently on a mvp2 and want to get away from the "box mod" I just find it to bulky and ugly, so here it comes...
Would I be safe with..........

Aspire atlantis,
nemisis clone,
Samsung 25r (18650 batteries)

Also some of the 18650's are "not protected" wot does this mean???

I really appreciate any help or advice u are willing to give me, cheers Matty

 

[TheOtherMatty]

Or would I be better with something like a sigelei Zmax V5 to be able to control the wattage, would the be underpowered for the atlantis???

 

[Jollyguy99]

check out my thread on aspire Atlantis sub ohm (protected) system. This thing is so amazing and easy to use with the feel of a pro cloud chaser.

 

[gelgoog]

Or would I be better with something like a sigelei Zmax V5 to be able to control the wattage, would the be underpowered for the atlantis???

a zmax will not fire a .5 ohm built

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

The Samsung INR18650-25R has a maximum continuous discharge rate (CDR) of 20 amps. The 25R is a 3.7 volt lithium type battery, meaning it has a maximum voltage of 4.2 volts when fully charged. So your maximum current flow will occur when the battery voltage is at maximum (4.2 Volts) in a mechanical mod.

The Aspire Atlantis is a subohm tank with a 0.5 ohm coil, although they tend to meter at 0.6 ohms.

Ohm's Law:

I = Current in Amps, V = Potential in Volts, R = Resistance in Ohms.

I = V / R
I = 4.2 / 0.5
I = 8.4 Amps

So the Atlantis on a mech mod with a fully charged battery will draw at most 8.4 Amps of current from your battery. Your battery can safely provide 20 Amps. So YES, you are well within the safety limits of the 25R battery.

Unprotected batteries do not have on board electronics to prevent over charging/discharging, over current, etc... Most safer chemistry batteries don't have protection because if they fail, they do so less violently than standard Lithium-Ion type batteries. Read this:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected-icr.html

 

[BeerGolfClouds]

Hi, ok so ive been vaping for a year and obviously upgraded as ive gone, but really want to take the next step to sub ohm/ mech mod vaping,

I'm currently learning ohms law, but don't yet fully understand, but I want to sub ohm safely,

Im currently on a mvp2 and want to get away from the "box mod" I just find it to bulky and ugly, so here it comes...
Would I be safe with..........

Aspire atlantis,
nemisis clone,
Samsung 25r (18650 batteries)

Also some of the 18650's are "not protected" wot does this mean???

I really appreciate any help or advice u are willing to give me, cheers Matty

Welcome to ECF!

The equipment you listed will absolutely work safely. The .5 ohm coils of an Atlantis will draw a little more than 8 amps off a freshly charged battery in a mech mod, well below the 20 amp continuous discharge rate of the Samsung 25r. Sounds like you're on a great track towards learning sub-ohm safety prior to jumping in...good on ya mate!

The Samsung is a safe chemistry, unprotected battery. This is exactly what you need for vaping. Stay away from protected batteries or any battery with "fire" in its name.

 

[Susan~S]

Hello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!

Just something for you to think about. With a mechanical mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil (or install a different Ω stock coil). With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.

I am not up to speed on all the tube style vv/vw mods. I do know the iStick 50w will fire down to 0.2Ω and has a HUGE internal 4400mah battery and is small. It is quite popular.

You could check this thread: Little itty bitty mods under $100

 

[noonenowhere]

The Samsung INR18650-25R has a maximum continuous discharge rate (CDR) of 20 amps. The 25R is a 3.7 volt lithium type battery, meaning it has a maximum voltage of 4.2 volts when fully charged. So your maximum current flow will occur when the battery voltage is at maximum (4.2 Volts) in a mechanical mod.

The Aspire Atlantis is a subohm tank with a 0.5 ohm coil, although they tend to meter at 0.6 ohms.

Ohm's Law:

I = Current in Amps, V = Potential in Volts, R = Resistance in Ohms.

I = V / R
I = 4.2 / 0.5
I = 8.4 Amps

So the Atlantis on a mech mod with a fully charged battery will draw at most 8.4 Amps of current from your battery. Your battery can safely provide 20 Amps. So YES, you are well within the safety limits of the 25R battery.

Unprotected batteries do not have on board electronics to prevent over charging/discharging, over current, etc... Most safer chemistry batteries don't have protection because if they fail, they do so less violently than standard Lithium-Ion type batteries. Read this:
]

Great info. Love reading about electricity as a computer nut. Now all you need to do is go build a PC and get a multimeter.

 

[ArdDarvis]

Im currently on a mvp2 and want to get away from the "box mod" I just find it to bulky and ugly, so here it comes...

Vamo is a VW mod that's not a "box", so you may consider looking into one. I only bring that up because of my personal fear of unregulated mods- if there's no board between me and the batteries, I'm not comfortable.
I say that to say that you can get away from "box mods" and still keep the peace of mind of a VW chip.

Found 173 vamo at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

Great info. Love reading about electricity as a computer nut. Now all you need to do is go build a PC and get a multimeter.

Already done and have 2 multimeters. Wrote a little code for micrcontrollers, probably similar to what run our VV/VW mods.

 

[Train2]

Deciding if you want a variable or a mech is kind of personal choice.
You can be safe with a mech, but you DO need to know if your build is within your battery limits.
Fiddle with the Ohms law calculator, and plug in any two variables to see the others - if your build (or your Atlantis) is 0.5 ohms, those batteries can easily handle the draw. Check the ohms against the fully charged 4.2 volts you'll have...
For variable, you need the specs of the device to see how low it will fire.

Oh - and against logic, the "unprotected" batteries are the kind we need for vaping.
The protection comes from "safer chemistry" that will vent if abused, and by not abusing them in the first place, by knowing their limits.

Finally - get an ohm-reading device for $12 so you can check your atomizer for resistance and for a short BEFORE firing it on a mechanical!

 

[Susan~S]

Should you decide to go the mech mod/rebuildable route I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of our resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. You will be 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:

BATTERIES

9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

17. Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

7. Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

15. Inexpensive Mechanical Mod/RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics

 

[TheOtherMatty]

Wow, some great help and advise, thanks to all of you!

Think ive still got a bit of reading to do before I make my order, but good to know im kind of on the right track, thanks,

ArdDarvis mentioned about a vamo, I am familiar with the vamo, and do also as a newbe to mech/mods like the idea of a board between me n the batteries and also like the idea of VW, but ive read some mixed reviews on a vamo sub ohm vape, alot saying it wont fire, if it does maybe a good 1 to try, even if its used as a back up to the nemisis, ill do a bit more research on this, (thanks ArdDarvis,)

Thanks again to u all,

 

[ArdDarvis]

I love the dedication folks have to helping others on here. I read some other forums where people are jerks to each other and it's refreshing here.

The vamo resistance is questionable sometimes. Some cut off at .8 while others at .3, and I'm sure variations in between.

I know your intentions are sub-ohm builds, but a 1ohm build at 35 watts is still fantastic.

read info till your eyes fall out, then decide.

 

[edyle]

Hi, ok so ive been vaping for a year and obviously upgraded as ive gone, but really want to take the next step to sub ohm/ mech mod vaping,

I'm currently learning ohms law, but don't yet fully understand, but I want to sub ohm safely,

Im currently on a mvp2 and want to get away from the "box mod" I just find it to bulky and ugly, so here it comes...
Would I be safe with..........

Aspire atlantis,
nemisis clone,
Samsung 25r (18650 batteries)

Also some of the 18650's are "not protected" wot does this mean???

I really appreciate any help or advice u are willing to give me, cheers Matty

1: sub ohm/mech mod vaping
People who are limited to mech mods, and want to vape at higher wattage, HAVE TO use a subohm coil
Nowadays, there are higher wattage regulated mods, which means you don't have to use as low ohms as a mech user, to get the same wattage.

2:
Atlantis: pretty standard safe type of equipment.
Nemesis: mech mod; if your Atlantis develops a short - and that DOES happen on clearos - bad stuff can happen.
Batteries: look for IMR batteries; 20 amp minimum; 30 amp better.

3:
Unsafe chemistry batteries are manufactured with a built in protection circuit; they are marketed to you as 'protected' as if that's an advantage.
Safe chemistry batteries don't need a protection circuit to get permission to be sold as a consumer product.

 

[TheOtherMatty]

Ok thanks, I really do appreciate all the help,

Im just a bit confused on which way to go, im on a kang pro tank 3, ive tried aero tank n others but dont seem to get enough from them, and they leak alot etc, so im looking for a change for the better.

Ive heard great things from the 50w istick, but personally not a fan of box mods, (no disrespect to box mod lovers, just personal choice,) think my mvp2 has put me off them, n really like the look of the tubes like the nemesis clone or the buffalo clone with magnets.

I do like the look of the vamo 5/6 for 1+ohm vaping, (on a nautilus maybe,) I just think its limited and I'd be looking again in 3 months, unless ther is something similar out ther and I just cant find it???

Im not a cloud chaser by any means (not to disrespect any1,) I just want a good, strong and reliable vape, (and dont mind having a little tinker with it once ive learned a bit more,)

Thanks again to everyone, it really has helped I just need to make a decision.

 

[edyle]

Ok thanks, I really do appreciate all the help,

Im just a bit confused on which way to go, im on a kang pro tank 3, ive tried aero tank n others but dont seem to get enough from them, and they leak alot etc, so im looking for a change for the better.

Ive heard great things from the 50w istick, but personally not a fan of box mods, (no disrespect to box mod lovers, just personal choice,) think my mvp2 has put me off them, n really like the look of the tubes like the nemesis clone or the buffalo clone with magnets.

I do like the look of the vamo 5/6 for 1+ohm vaping, (on a nautilus maybe,) I just think its limited and I'd be looking again in 3 months, unless ther is something similar out ther and I just cant find it???

Im not a cloud chaser by any means (not to disrespect any1,) I just want a good, strong and reliable vape, (and dont mind having a little tinker with it once ive learned a bit more,)

Thanks again to everyone, it really has helped I just need to make a decision.

there's the vamo 10

 

[ArdDarvis]

Someone showed me THIS WEBPAGE that has a chart at the bottom that was very valuable to me. It outlines the different Vamo versions.
Yes, it's an alibaba link. No, I'm not recommending to buy anything from it. The chart at the bottom is the only reason I'm sharing it. It may be wrong, but looks semi-trustable.

From the chart, it says that the M322H (3w-20w), M322A (3w-15w), and M345A (3w-55w) are all 1-ish Ohm limit
BUT, the M352A (3w-55w) and M355A (3w-40w) are both .3 ohm limit.

Because there are two different versions of the 55w Vamo (.8 ohm and .3 ohm), I would suggest the 40w device. I vape .7 ohms at 35w and it is VERY satisfying.