Sub-Ohm without the contact upgrade? Is it dangerous?
- Thread starter Cptfunpants
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Not completely necessary...it will work and can be safe. With the old contacts, I would stick with AW1600 button top batteries.
That battery will be safe to a .3 build. The part that may (will) become damaged in time is the button. The heat from that low of a build may (will) eventually melt it.
The newer contacts will make the Reo hit much harder and make your batteries last longer than the old contacts. Lower voltage drop.
Hope this helps,
Geo
That battery will be safe to a .3 build. The part that may (will) become damaged in time is the button. The heat from that low of a build may (will) eventually melt it.
The newer contacts will make the Reo hit much harder and make your batteries last longer than the old contacts. Lower voltage drop.
Hope this helps,
Geo
I currently have the AW IMR 2100MAH, not the 1600.
Note: They are 6-8 months old.
Double note: You mentioned with the old contacts you recommend the AW 1600s, what do you recommend with the new contacts if I were to get them?
Thanks.
Note: They are 6-8 months old.
Double note: You mentioned with the old contacts you recommend the AW 1600s, what do you recommend with the new contacts if I were to get them?
Thanks.
Just my 2cents, but I don't sub ohm with my 2k batts. The 1600 lasts longer at a useable charge. My only concern with the efests is that they are taller, and may effect the safety factor of having the spring sag out of contact in case of a hard short. The amp rating is good, and if you check your builds before firing you will be ok, but I am not sure the spring will sag enough to release the battery in a short situation,
Use one of these, or something like it. Check your builds EVERY time you make a coil. It's also handy to check your batteries coming off the charger, and to see how low you're running them when you change them out (best vape is above 3.6 volts, below 2.5 will damage the batteries)
Honestly, you should familiarize yourself with ohms law, and check resistances and batteries religiously. If you don't, you're playing Russian Roulette with your face. This is ESPECIALLY true if you're going to subohm, but even if you don't, you really should check these things, and understand how it all works together.
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Yeah if your going to SubOhm, definitely get the contact upgrade. With the old contacts, the voltage drop is so high, that you almost won't benefit much more from going lower in ohms, because as ohms go lower, voltage drop becomes more of a factor. On a fresh battery (4.2 volts) you might only get like 3.3 volts to the coils, vs with the new contacts, it might be more like 3.7 volts, which is a big difference when subohming.
I personally still have faith in the VTC5's. I picked up an authentic pair on eBay believe it or not, and fake VTC5's aren't hard to spot. eBay has buyer protection against counterfeits too. If you discover your purchase to be a counterfeit, you get your money back. I own four VTC5's and they're all authentic. I usually run my Reo at .37 ohms on my Trident and that equates to something like 40 watts and it does fantastic.
If you don't own a dedicated ohm reader, buy one. You need to know what your ohms are before you start messing with lower ohms, and if your not familiar with batteries yet, you need to be. You need to know the maximum continuous amperage discharge, and not build your coils in a manner that exceeds the continuous amperage rating. Also note the peak amperage discharge rate, and never even consider building to that point. Efest 35 amp batteries are a 35 amp PEAK and a 20 amp continuous as far as I'm aware.
Just be safe and be educated
I personally still have faith in the VTC5's. I picked up an authentic pair on eBay believe it or not, and fake VTC5's aren't hard to spot. eBay has buyer protection against counterfeits too. If you discover your purchase to be a counterfeit, you get your money back. I own four VTC5's and they're all authentic. I usually run my Reo at .37 ohms on my Trident and that equates to something like 40 watts and it does fantastic.
If you don't own a dedicated ohm reader, buy one. You need to know what your ohms are before you start messing with lower ohms, and if your not familiar with batteries yet, you need to be. You need to know the maximum continuous amperage discharge, and not build your coils in a manner that exceeds the continuous amperage rating. Also note the peak amperage discharge rate, and never even consider building to that point. Efest 35 amp batteries are a 35 amp PEAK and a 20 amp continuous as far as I'm aware.
Just be safe and be educated
I vaped builds at .6 ohms a lot with the old contacts in them and never had any trouble. I finally started having some off/on misfiring problems and made arrangements to send it to the spa for the upgrade to address them(I just knew it was the old contacts causing them). When preparing to send it in to the spa using Robert's instructions for shipment, I discovered that my mod had never been properly cleaned after months of continuous use. I went ahead and sent it in anyways since it was cleaned up and ready to go. It was my understanding at the time you could go as low as .5 ohms on the old contacts without a problem. I too used the AW IMR 2000 mah batteries and it was suggested to use the 1600 mah batteries for the reasons mentioned above. I immediately noticed a significant increase in vaping time using the 1600 mah batteries for voltage drop between 4.2 to 3.8 volts. I've read some good reporting on the new AW IMR 2200 mah batteries. I am going to order some of these when I buy new batteries.
Off topic to any one, what is the recommended flashlight to use my old 2000 mah batteries in? Thanks in advance.
Off topic to any one, what is the recommended flashlight to use my old 2000 mah batteries in? Thanks in advance.
Ooh, I'm a flashlight nut! I have a Fenix pd35, nitecore p12 and an olight m18 striker. Any of these will accept an 18650. Of the 3, the pd35 and the p12 are my recommendations. I've heard the p12 is more fragile and doesn't handle drops as well but the interface is slightly better than the pd35. The p12 has a tighter beam and the pd35 is a little floodier, but not a huge difference. Both are equivalent in brightness. P12 has a 1 lumen mode, very nice for keeping night vision. Pd35 is 10 lumens lowest I think. P12 is bigger than the pictures show, and doesn't pocket quite as well as the pd35.
Pd35 is my recommendation.
Alright, derailing over
If you are sub-ohm rebuilding I highly recommend you spend some time with Baditude (one of ECF's resident battery experts) and visit his blogs. As many above me have said, make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.
Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:
BATTERIES
9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
17. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.
OHM'S LAW
14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.
16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.
Baditudes Blogs. The blogs regarding mods and rebuildables are listed below:
BATTERIES
9. Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
17. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.
OHM'S LAW
14. Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.
16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.
Do any of you guys watch "RIP Trippers" youtube videos?On his videos when sub-ohming he is recommending 3 different batteries....I cannot think of all three at the moment, one of them is the Sony VCT3/4/5. However, none of the recommended ones are the AW IMR batteries? Why would he not have them as a recommended battery, yet no matter where I go in this forum the AW IMR batteries are recommended everywhere?
The guy that supplies the AW batteries is on this forum, and has a reputation for being a stand up guy, that knows what he's doing. It's his reputation, and experience with his batteries by a LOT of vapers, that accounts for their high regard. Many battery manufacturers exaggerate their battery's specs or out and out lie.
Since it's our well being we're risking, it behooves us to go with what we have reason to believe is the best. Years of use have proven the AW IMR's to be excellent, dependable batteries, with "known" specs. Not so much with some other batteries.
Since it's our well being we're risking, it behooves us to go with what we have reason to believe is the best. Years of use have proven the AW IMR's to be excellent, dependable batteries, with "known" specs. Not so much with some other batteries.
I cancelled my order for those eFests once I saw the article by Baditude. .
Is there a point in the batteries lifespan I should become concerned about using it safely? My current ones are roughly 6 months.
Is there a point in the batteries lifespan I should become concerned about using it safely? My current ones are roughly 6 months.
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You did the right thing. Go with either the AW IMR 1600 or the VTC4's (VTC 5 is out of stock) and buy only from reputable vendors as china clones are everywhere on eBay. The reason these two are recommended for sub ohm vaping is the higher continuous discharge rate they have vs other batteries
Would you be so kind as to link me to the site you purchase your batteries from? Not being lazy, but it has been so long since I have had to purchase a battery I am out of the loop on a reputable yet affordable site.
Here: Authentic AW Batteries - RTD Vapor
Randy is a stand-up guy....and USUALLY has everything in stock....or can get it in a hurry!!
Happy (vaping) Trails!
What videos would you recommend for coil building if you don't like his? I like pbusardo but he doesn't do a whole lot of coil building.
Here: Authentic AW Batteries - RTD Vapor
Randy is a stand-up guy....and USUALLY has everything in stock....or can get it in a hurry!!
Happy (vaping) Trails!
Order placed!!
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