sub ohming at .1
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Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators - VTC4
Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators - 25R
Not sure, but there ya go.
Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators - 25R
Not sure, but there ya go.
Honestly, there's no need to vape at that high of a wattage. If you must, VTC4's only. sigelei recommends using 30 amp CDR batts.
The Sigelei 150 is a regulated mod and as long as it will fire your setup the batteries will be fine as long as they can handle the current draw.
Current (amp) draw is dependent on the watts you set and has nothing to do with the resistance in regulated mods like these Sigeleis. At 150 watts when the two batteries are almost empty (which is when they will see the most amp draw) they will be putting out about 26A of current. VTC4's are rated for 30A continuous and the 25R's 20A.
Hope this helps
I'd suggest using the samsung 25r's only because I've used them. They're safe enough depending on how high of a wattage you intend on vaping. You won't reach 4.2 volts simply because that device literally only goes up to 150 watts where as you would need 176 watts. You will, however, reach 3.8v which in my experience just gets too hot to vape at 0.1 ohms .. however im just not too fond of the heat myself. The samsungs are just fine, and remember, be safe.
isnt the 150 a VV/VW? and will it fire off at .1? something tells me it will tell you its a short....
Safe, possibly. Necessary, no. With 150w at your disposal, you could fog out an aircraft hanger with a 1 ohm coil.
And I don't think the 150w will fire below 0.15 Ω anyway. I could be wrong , but I do remember the 100w is a 0.15 Ω rig
Something to Think About
The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build super low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building that low works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. This increases both heat and vapor production.
With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.
Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features
The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build super low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building that low works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. This increases both heat and vapor production.
With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.
Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features
Honestly? I would never go below a .5ohm coil on the Sig 150. As has been mentioned, what your wanting to run may not even fire on it.
I vape at 0.27 on it, and I cant get above 60 watts.
Thats just my tastes tho.
Its not safe.
therefore the Sigelei will not fire
But words of wisdom I have learned on this forum is ... if you have to ask if its safe....it isnt.
If you somehow manage to get it to fire, Remember, the only thing worse than a battery blowing up in your face, is two batteries blowing up in your face.
Thats just my tastes tho.
Its not safe.
therefore the Sigelei will not fire
But words of wisdom I have learned on this forum is ... if you have to ask if its safe....it isnt.
If you somehow manage to get it to fire, Remember, the only thing worse than a battery blowing up in your face, is two batteries blowing up in your face.
The sigelei 150w uses the Yihi sx330 v3s.
Yihi lists their chips specs on their site and it shows being able to fire .1Ω.
It is always a good idea to read the ' chip' manufacturers specifications before purchase to ensure it is suitable for your intended use.
To answer your question is .1 safe using the sigelei 150;
Yes, no, maybe, probably, give it a try some folks do. .
You will reach 150w at 3.873v using a .1Ω coil and stay under the 40a limit, not accounting for any device or connection inefficiencies.
3.873v / .1Ω= 150w & 38.73a ,
Wicking ability & airflow are going to be major contributing factors in if you enjoy the vape.
Just my opinion, you are relying on the QC & accuracy of a mass produced inexpensive electronic component gizmo to provide protection and to assess / determine a personal safety comfort level. ( inexpensive depending on quantity purchased)
Regulated APV's have minimum & maximum limits - volt, watt amp & resistance as part of the protection circuitry.
You cannot trick, fool or bypass any of them unless caused by a malfunction or your specific model has a mechanical like dc/dc mode.
Some flash an error code or other information via the display screen informing the user the settings they're using are below or beyond one of these limits and or won't fire.
Some report nothing on the display screen ( give no indication to the user) and automatically adjust to the minimum or maximum output possible that is within range of one of these limits and fire.
When using one of these type the display screen may show youre vaping at xx watts but because the users settings are under or over one of the min/max limits they are actually vaping at a different lower or higher wattage even if the display shows the user set xx watts.
Why in the world is this thread in the new members forum?!?
You think your sigelei was expensive, wait until you buy a meter that can actually measure 0.1 ohms!
You think your sigelei was expensive, wait until you buy a meter that can actually measure 0.1 ohms!
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Original poster only has 7 posts (at the time I'm reading this), so probably couldn't post anywhere else here. Anyway, I know what your saying. And I also question why anyone would want to vape at 0.1 ohm.
I also agree that unless you own a recently calibrated Fluke DMM, you probably can't trust any other meter to accurately read a 0.1 ohm coil. That's 0.1 ohm away from a hard shorted battery. Can one trust the protective circuitry of this mod to prohibit firing? I sure would hope so.
Well, at least s/he wants to do it on a regulated 2 battery mod insead of a Stingray
Well, at least s/he wants to do it on a regulated 2 battery mod insead of a Stingray
A stingray clone, with a Purple Efest.....no.... a trust and/or ultrafire battery or a vtc5 bought off ebay
Yes, but you can run them right at the margin which increases the chance of trouble. If .1 is min., use .12 or higher (calculated and measured), although you'd probably find more power to the actual coil, etc. at a higher resistance... as well as just being able to trust the mod even more.
Well, at least s/he wants to do it on a regulated 2 battery mod insead of a Stingray
The sig150 is a series battery setup, no? If so, amp load is not split across batteries as in a parallel setup. The purpose of series batteries is to get higher wattage by raising voltage, not by lowering resistance.
Edit: some math
Put another way, at .27, you could run at 108 watts (5.4 volts) and be at the 20A limit of most batteries.
At .10, you could only run at 40 watts (2 volts) before you are at the 20A limit of most batteries.
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