If you have to ask if that is safe, you obviously have not done enough research to know if it is or not.
Please do the proper research instead of asking if this is safe.
sub ohming at .1
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If you have to ask if that is safe, you obviously have not done enough research to know if it is or not.
Please do the proper research instead of asking if this is safe.
^^-- what's asking here if not research?
This is NOT A MECH we're talking about here. It probably says in the mod manual what the needed battery ratings are. The coil resistance does NOT affect the needed battery -- the mod itself and the power rating it is set at does. 150W into .1 or 1.0, doesn't matter. 150W into .05 really wouldn't matter since wouldn't fire (I hope).
This is NOT A MECH we're talking about here. It probably says in the mod manual what the needed battery ratings are. The coil resistance does NOT affect the needed battery -- the mod itself and the power rating it is set at does. 150W into .1 or 1.0, doesn't matter. 150W into .05 really wouldn't matter since wouldn't fire (I hope).
The 100Ws are in series. I'm not positive on the 150W because I don't have one.
I'm hoping the worst that happens is it doesn't fire, or the vape is crappy at 0.1 ohm. But, yeah, a couple months ago two different people, using sngle battery tube mechs became quite angry with me when I told them why this wasn't safe.
You don't need to sub ohm using a vv/vw mod. Especially that low of a build. I made the same mistake a when I got mine. And believe it or not I get better vapor/flavour from a higher ohm build.
The reason sub ohming started was because of mechs. They have a fixed voltage of 4.2/3.7 volts and drops with use and the only way to increase watts is yo build lower but with a regulated vv/vw mod you can build whatever and still use higher watts.
For example if you build a .1 at 150 watts you will be at 3.87 volts and 38.73 amps on your battery's but if you built a .3 and used your full 150watts then you would be at 6.71 volts and far less amps on batterys (around 22 amps vs the previous 38.73)
If you see where I'm coming from
My smoke xpro m80 has max voltage of 12.
And reads down to .1 ohms
At the start I was trying yo build as close to that as possible. Usually around .15ohm range and with this at 50w I was getting 2.74v and amp pull of 18.26.
Now with my current build of .7 at 50 watts is nearly 6 volts and 8 and a half amps.
So with my slightly higher build I can still use 50 watts unlike a mech but there is a lot less strain on my batteries and far higher voltage resulting in more power being delivered to the coil which in turn is providing bigger clouds.
Hope this helped a bit
The reason sub ohming started was because of mechs. They have a fixed voltage of 4.2/3.7 volts and drops with use and the only way to increase watts is yo build lower but with a regulated vv/vw mod you can build whatever and still use higher watts.
For example if you build a .1 at 150 watts you will be at 3.87 volts and 38.73 amps on your battery's but if you built a .3 and used your full 150watts then you would be at 6.71 volts and far less amps on batterys (around 22 amps vs the previous 38.73)
If you see where I'm coming from
My smoke xpro m80 has max voltage of 12.
And reads down to .1 ohms
At the start I was trying yo build as close to that as possible. Usually around .15ohm range and with this at 50w I was getting 2.74v and amp pull of 18.26.
Now with my current build of .7 at 50 watts is nearly 6 volts and 8 and a half amps.
So with my slightly higher build I can still use 50 watts unlike a mech but there is a lot less strain on my batteries and far higher voltage resulting in more power being delivered to the coil which in turn is providing bigger clouds.
Hope this helped a bit
This. Especially on the 150. i have the 100+ and rarely build below .5 (sometimes get to .4 when playing with new coil builds). I can fog up my apartment in a couple hits running my dual 24g coils at .6 and 80 watts. You dont need it that low on a regulated mod, so why push the boundaries? Build a little higher and err on the side of caution.
Series and parallel LITERALLY means nothing on a regulated box except input voltage and absolute maximum power (were talking like 300-400 watts, the chip itself is the bottleneck here). The chip pulls a certain voltage from the batteries (usually 6-8.4v depending on how dead you are), the chip is powered by this voltage and produces a new voltage. If the new voltage is incompatible, itll hit the "limit" of the regulated box (either ohm limit or max power limit) The output current usually isnt the same as the input current and series/parallel doesnt mean anything where those batteries are powering a CHIP and not simply powering the coil. A parallel regulated box like the DNA chips boost the original voltage where a series regulated box like everything else reduces the original voltage. Either way, when youre directly controlling voltage and current,
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This too, 150w at .6 ohms is a LOT better than 150w at .1 ohms. When you can adjust your voltage and power, super sub ohming just goes out the window. Stop building low for a box, start build HUGE coils with tons of surface area and use that max regulated voltage to your advantage. For a good "sweet spot" plug your boxes max voltage and max power into ohms law and find that resistance.
For a sigelei 150 (150w, 8.4v max) thats around .5 ohms
For a sigelei 100 (100w, 8.4v max) thats around .7 ohms
Theres literally no need to build super low on a regulated mod
Oh my.
Unless you are Nikola Tesla, power isn't being drawn out of thin air. It's coming from the cells. The chip regulates how much power is drawn from them - but it doesn't know the CDR of the cells, and can most certainly overdraw them. A setup like 165w at 0.1 on series batteries pulls 40 amps from the batteries. With two 18650s in series, this is 40A per cell, in parallel, this is 20A per cell.
Perhaps I should send up a Baditude signal?
The IPV chip that goes to 165w is limited to a 30 amp max output current and, its part of the chip's limitations itself and will not fire that (It should fire a .2 around full power though). Its part of the IPV instructions that you need a 30+ amp battery to fire at higher powers, like a lot of boxes tell you to do. Parallel based regulated boxes are more worrysome to me, since theyre boosting the input voltage, which might possibly already be inputting at max current (if there was some kind of high-power 4.2 volt input chip, which I cant think of one)Oh my.
Unless you are Nikola Tesla, power isn't being drawn out of thin air. It's coming from the cells. The chip regulates how much power is drawn from them - but it doesn't know the CDR of the cells, and can most certainly overdraw them. A setup like 165w at 0.1 on series batteries pulls 40 amps from the batteries. With two 18650s in series, this is 40A per cell, in parallel, this is 20A per cell.
Perhaps I should send up a Baditude signal?
The point Im trying to make is that with regulation, both parallel and series box mods should have the exact same limitations, either by splitting the input current between 2 batteries (parallel) or by halving the input current needed to hit a certain wattage (series)
The series-battery IPV hits .08 ohms, the parallel-battery DNA30 doesnt even go low resistance, theoretical chips are only limited by input currents and input voltages and practical chips all have fail-safes and determined current limits
There arent "series and parallel chips", theres 6-8.4v input chips (that have a max current of maybe 30, sometimes 20, my series-based raptor 60w chip was 10amp?) and 3-4.2v input chips (that would have a max current of 40, 60 and NEED a parallel 18650 power source, and probably not be a mod-friendly chip)
Either way the chip is designed to NEVER pull past the max stated current, in most cases it electronically cant. The point isnt whether pulling 165w at .1 ohms is bad or not on which battery setup, the point is that a 30amp chip literally will not be able to do that
Oh my.
Unless you are Nikola Tesla, power isn't being drawn out of thin air. It's coming from the cells. The chip regulates how much power is drawn from them - but it doesn't know the CDR of the cells, and can most certainly overdraw them. A setup like 165w at 0.1 on series batteries pulls 40 amps from the batteries. With two 18650s in series, this is 40A per cell, in parallel, this is 20A per cell.
A lot of people don't understand how battery amp draw in VW devices works. Sometimes I think we're still stuck back in the mechanical and VV mod days
Here's my explanation of it from another thread. To summarize, atty resistance in a VW device has nothing to do with battery (as opposed to device) amp rates. At 165 watts with two batteries in series each battery would see a 28.65A draw with battery voltage at 3.2V. With the battery voltage at 4.2V they would see 21.83A draw. This is true at 0.1 ohms and at 4.0 ohms.
It also doesn't matter if two batteries are in series or parallel in a VW mod, amp draw on each will be the same at 165 watts in both cases.
From Steam Engine, for your example above, 165w at 0.1 using two series batteries at 6.4 battery volts pulls 28.65A from each battery. At 8.4V it goes down to 21.83A. That's at 90% regulator board efficiency. And it will be the same amp draw with a 4.0 ohm atty, however that would require the regulator to output 25.69V and that isn't possible at the moment so we can't vape at 165 watts with a 4 ohm atty today
I have a Sigelei 150 and I can say these max out at 7.5V (at least mine does). This means the resistance range it will do 150 watts in is between about 0.35 and 0.10 ohms. The way someone wants that to vape will determine the best wire gauge and resistance combination for them.
The important thing is that the batteries can handle the approximately 165 watt power draw from them (about 83 watts each) when it's outputting 150 watts to the atty.
I'll shuffle over to a corner, hat in hand, and admit I was wrong.
Thanks for the education.
I've been calculating battery draw in my IPV3 based on final output, but not based on the much higher voltage fed into the buck converter.
Thanks for the education.
I've been calculating battery draw in my IPV3 based on final output, but not based on the much higher voltage fed into the buck converter.
No problem, it's all good kartoffelfaust. A lot of people have not figured this stuff out yet. I think the problem is we're so used to working with single battery mech mods when it comes to battery safety.
Vape on my friend
High wattage regulated boxes are amusing at times to me. Take the Herakles tank for example. It can and will handle the highest wattage you can throw at it (150w devices I'm referring to) but like a lot of vapors that come in boasting that their tank can "handle" 150w, they fail to realize that the voltage is maxed out around 90ish usually. Same goes for most of their builds on rdas. Negating the fact that all those extra watts are essentially useless once the peak voltage is reached. (hope that made some sense, as I half asleep atm
I always use the 350j and dna40 with ni200 and .125. push 4.6 volts through that and you are a dragon. box and battery get very hot but doing this for over a year now. asking for it, maybe. to be honest I can only take 2 second puffs. isn't vtc5 35 amps? subohmcell is so they say. how many amps is this? too lazy to do math. of course we are doing this at our own risk. it is no one else's fault if it explodes. you can get burned with a blow dryer if you misuse it. I am not sure I am misusing this though?
Check Mooch's test in the battery subforum. The vtc5 is a 20 amp battery.
Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
There are no 18650 cells that can be rated at over 30A...no matter what the wrap says.
The subohms might be decent 20A cells though. If your cells are getting very hot that is a message to you that you could be in a whole lot of trouble if your mod ever autofires. At best, you're significantly reducing the life of your cells. At worst, your flirting with cell venting (which can spray pretty nasty stuff all over the inside of your mod) or, perhaps, even a pretty energetic fire next to your face.
The LG HB6 is the only true 30A cell I've seen so far. Less capacity than other cells, of course. You can't get both high capacity and high current at the same time in an 18650 cell. Though, there are some darn good cells available. The VTC4 and LG HD2 are runner-ups to the HB6 in the over-20A range.
See my test results for more info and check out my cell safety grade table...link in my signature.
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and this why I stick with my single battery mechs...took me long enough to understand how they worked, throw in another battery and a miniature computer and my brain starts to hurt.
From the link you posted:
2-in-1 Ohm & Voltage Meter
Easily test cartomizers and atomizers without having to use a meter. Simply screw on a cartomizer or atomizer and this tester will show you the ohms. Great for testing ohms or for bad cartomizers or atomizers and rebuildables. Basic accuracy is 0.15Ohm or 0.2%, whichever is larger.
The last sentence is your answer. It's measuring .1 ohms with accuracy that gets expensive.
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