So im having a strange problem with my rba deck my ohms jump on every push of button. I have a sig 50w i have put multiple other toppers on it no jumping working like it suppose to. I narrowed it down to the connection on bottom rba deck and pin in base. If i wrench deck down with pliers it stops jumping but thats kinda extreme tightning with pliers to get solid connection. Ive had this tank for months never an issue til now. Only thing i can see changing is the rubber gromit in the 510 maybe expanded or deformed holding the pin out from making solid contact with rba but visually it looks fine. Was wondering if anyone had this problem with the base and narrowed it down to something wrong that can be fixed.
Subtank mini ohms jumping on rba deck not a coil short.
- Thread starter jrlakeman
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Take the rba deck out of the base...look at the bottom of the rba deck. Make sure that post is tight. If it's not, your resistance will jump. Happened to me on my first Kanger Sub.
Yah ive had it apart many times one time pulling pin and reseating fixed it for a day then went back to samething.
i had this happen on a subtank mini clone. i liked the authentic so much i figured i would try a fasttech clone for $12. at first it was fine but after a few days the ohms were jumping all over the place. i replaced the coil to rule that out and ohms still jumped around. i took the RBA section off the base and then took apart the base completely and cleaned everything and reassembled and since then it has worked as well as my authentic tanks. WARNING!!! there is an extremely TINY ball bearing that locks the AFC ring in place. be very careful not to loose it. i`m not sure if this will help you but its worth a try. 
I think ill have to completely tear down the afc base only thing i havent done yet. If you had luck doin that its worth a go at it as im about to toss it out soon.i had this happen on a subtank mini clone. i liked the authentic so much i figured i would try a fasttech clone for $12. at first it was fine but after a few days the ohms were jumping all over the place. i replaced the coil to rule that out and ohms still jumped around. i took the RBA section off the base and then took apart the base completely and cleaned everything and reassembled and since then it has worked as well as my authentic tanks. WARNING!!! there is an extremely TINY ball bearing that locks the AFC ring in place. be very careful not to loose it. i`m not sure if this will help you but its worth a try.
Its tight i torqued it down with a screwdriver through the air holes i thought that too. Its drivin me crazy i cant track it down as i never have problems like this.
Are you sure your coil leads are tightened down all the way? I've had this happen when my screws weren't tight enough.
I've been having this problem on one of my four mini's, one air base and RBA is a clone and it is the problematic mini.
I checked the coil screws first, tight, then the post on the RBA, tight, looked through the full air slot to make sure I see good contact, check, then I realize that the threading on that airflow base is slightly shorter so I pushed the pin out a bit and gently screwed it back on the iStick and no more jumping ohms.
Back 5 years ago that was always my first check and usual firing fix on the old cartomizers.
I can't believe after all the google searches I've done on this, it was something so obvious and easy to fix.
I checked the coil screws first, tight, then the post on the RBA, tight, looked through the full air slot to make sure I see good contact, check, then I realize that the threading on that airflow base is slightly shorter so I pushed the pin out a bit and gently screwed it back on the iStick and no more jumping ohms.
Back 5 years ago that was always my first check and usual firing fix on the old cartomizers.
I can't believe after all the google searches I've done on this, it was something so obvious and easy to fix.
Just Recently I had some Similar Problems with on of my Subtank Mini's.
The Problem with Ohm Jumping and sometime No Atomizer errors was intermediate. But they seemed to be getting more Frequent. So I did a Complete Disassembly and found two Issues.
One was that the Center Post that holds the RBA Deck together was Lose. And the other was that the Gourmet that hold the 510 Center Pin in the Air Flow Control had worked itself up.
After a Good Cleaning and reassembly, all the Problems seemed to have Vanished.
Messing around with the Center Post on my STM appears to have cured my ohms
jumping problem for the time being. Thanks!.
_
Unfortunately, the RBA Plus that came with my STM is a defective POS (Authentic STM and RBA).
Ordered an original RBA Plus replacement from Fasttech and Ohm problem solved!.
Additionally, I was getting massive leaking from the AFC which has been 90%
fixed with the replacement. Still a tiny bit of leaking, but nowhere near the
massive leaks experienced with the one that came with my tank. Maybe using
a little more cotton will rectify the remaining minor e-juice leaking issue.
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