Subtank Mini RDA Not Firing - Pin Problem? FIXED

[Brooklynyte]

OK, let's see how short I can make this. I currently have the sub tank many on an aspire CF sub ohm battery. Both me and my brother have the same exact setup, yet when I try to build an RDA using their supplies it simply won't fire. but my brothers will fire perfectly, other than that my tank works perfectly it fires stock coils with no problem everything is peachy, other than it simply refuses to fire my build. I can build one, it won't fire on mine, but if I put it on my brothers battery it will
but only if I put it on his base... So obviously there's a connection problem. Now I heard about Kanger having a problem with their bottom pin, so it seems to me that the stock coils are long enough to make contact to that pin but the rba setup seems to be a tad too short to reach that pin to get fired up. Is there any way to fix this?

 

[nyiddle]

Just to clarify, both you and your brother are using the Aspire CF Sub Ohm battery? And you're both using Kanger Subtanks?

Is it possible the contact on your Aspire CF battery is pushed down? I thought it was spring loaded, but I could be slightly mistaken.

If the tank is firing on your brother's battery, but not yours, the problem is not the tank, it's the battery, so it'd actually be Aspire's fault as opposed to Kanger's.

 

[Dom]

Also snip coil ends real tight and push them flush. It doesnt take much to short it out. My coils would work until i put the barrel piece on the atomizer and wick. when it touches it shorts

 

[Brooklynyte]

No, it's the base of the subtank that's the issue, if I use his base it will work on either battery.... It's an extremely common problem to have the pin being just slightly too low to make a connection to the RDA coil, but I guess the stock coils are slightly longer and connect prefectly. After some research on about positive it's a pin problem but still no solution yet...

 

[Wraith504]

screw the base of it on your device after you build it, but leave the barrel chimney glass etc. off. then see if it will read the resistance

 

[Dom]

Think your barkin up the wrong tree. the rba is probably is fine. Check where the screws attach to the coil. Did you bend them over tight against the rba? does it fire when you just have the coil on the battery and not the other parts? Can you post a picture of your coil setup?

 

[Brooklynyte]

 

[Dom]

If it fires with out the chimney attached your shorting it.

 

[Wraith504]

pics arent showing for me....

 

[RandyF]

I unscrewed the pin from the RBA, fashioned a ring using 24g kanthal that sat perfectly under the head of the screw, it has to fit snug around the shaft with no overlap. Screw the pin back into the RBA and it extends it just enough that you shouldn't have any more issues.

An easy way to get the ring right is to take a strand of 24g, long enough that you can grip both ends. Wrap it around the shaft and pull it tight, then slide it off the screw. You should now have a piece of kanthal with a loop in the middle. Cut the wire where it doubles up in the loop, you should now have a perfect o-ring you can put back on the screw and clasp tight under the head.

 

[Brooklynyte]

Point in case, works with my brothers base, not working with my bad. On either battery.

 

[Bovinia]

The pin on the bottom of your subtank mini will adjust. Try pushing it up into the base just a tiny bit to make contact with your rba base. Be careful not to dislodge the little o ring type insulator that the pin is in

 

[Brooklynyte]

Randy, THIS is what kind of solution in looking for... But where did you make this ring exactly? Here? Under the 4 holes? How did you make it stick?

 

[Brooklynyte]

Randy, THIS is what kind of solution in looking for... But where did you make this ring exactly? Here? Under the 4 holes? How did you make it stick?

View attachment 459940

 

[Off cigs]

One of my subtank mini rba heads does this. If I take a piece of kanthal (28 ga is what I used) and run it thru the air holes on the rba 510 pin, bend it over end of pin, it fires.

The rba had worked fine. I think the peek insulator compressed, resulting in the pin not sticking out as far as it had. Have ordered new peek insulator.

Have asked about longer pins, was told there weren't any.

Hope that helps

 

[RandyF]

Randy, THIS is what kind of solution in looking for... But where did you make this ring exactly? Here? Under the 4 holes? How did you make it stick?

Yes, 24g will extend it just enough while still allowing you enough thread to screw in to the RBA.

 

[RandyF]

Here is mine. My other STm has the same ring.

 

[Brooklynyte]

The concept all makes sense but it didn't work with my 26g. I'm going to try something using the air holes.... I can't believe there's no standard fix yet!

 

[RandyF]

The concept all makes sense but it didn't work with my 26g. I'm going to try something using the air holes.... I can't believe there's no standard fix yet!

I am pretty confident when testing these Kanger is using devices with fixed 510 pins, or fairly stiff spring loaded pins. If the pin is fixed in the device it will push the floating 510 in the base of the STm up enough to make contact. The issue is the spring loaded pins in some devices (rDNA40 for one) are softer than others and do not push that pin in the base up enough to make contact.

Another thing I did that I forgot to mention is I ordered the full size ST floating pins that have the spring loaded extension and swapped the ones in my STm's. That might be why it works better for me.

 

[Brooklynyte]

I just did this and it finally worked... Wrapped a few rounds of 26g kanthal around those air holes and it did right up.... Even if I do have to fight to get it in and out of the base due to all the kanthal around the edges lol..... But it works!