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These are the tensioned
coils. Again, I torched them clean and tossed them in my reusable coil bag.
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This is the basic jig I used. My mandrel (screwdriver) chucked into my power drill. The coil clamped to the mandrel with a needle nose vise grip. 2 large vise grips clamped to the spool hanging from the mandrel. Then, of course, I slowly turned the power driver to wind the coil.
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That's the weight of the vise grips I used for tension. Approx. 3 lbs......Maybe that's not enough?
Jef I didn't see ya post on the tensioned next thread or I would have made time to get to ya. Does sound like you didn't get to adhesion. That's the point the turns get closest together. You know with a micro when you get turns close you'll gunk. Like a loose post connection. That's what super_x found as he got to the contact coil. It's like a continuous short, a close contact coil. Torching them and squeezing 'em gets 'em tight enough to oxidize together and get stable. Then you see some serious output and they run cleaner.
Problem is there's still gaps in 'em that can reduce the output. We def want the best output but not at the expense of dry heat. Winding them with tension gets the wires as close together as they can fit. You have to apply just the right amount of tension. Too much and you can over-stretch the wire and you get hot like the short again. So there's no way around it, we each have to learn where the middle of that lane is.
Here's what you get when you do…as good as oxidation as you can possibly have. That means the closer to the natural resistance capacity of that particular wire. Man, don't get any better than that. You're not underusing the wire; and, you're not over-stressing it. That's what doesn't waste your
juice or amps and likely best matches the load capacity of the wick that fits in it.
So let's have at it Jeff. I'm a big tobacco lover, vape high vg or 100% and I've got over 60 of these things all running tension with every kind of juice. Some I've had running six months, like this one…
This is what she was doin' at 5 mos before a rewick mid-Dec.
Come the 6 mo anniv, short of time but I couldn't bear to take it down.
What we're talkin' about here is the most efficient electrical delivery. It's the most efficient electrical/combustion we seek in an engine and for the same reasons.
So bro step up. Invest a little time in this and you're gonna be able to apply this to anything and everything, simple or complex like the above. But you gotta find that zone where resistance is optimal.
My suggestion is start simply using the drill as a winder and hand hold to get a feel for the wrap. It's harder on a drill than a pin vise or screwdriver but it can be done. You're lookin' for the point that the wire starts to pull in on itself. We affectionately call it "sticky". But not much further than that. Once you get there which might take you a few tries pulse it at low voltage and repeatedly. Don't fry it in the white zone. You want it to oxidize in steps like laying on multiple layers of paint. It builds denser and harder that way.
I'd keep the diameter someplace reasonable. Not huge, makes it harder and more practice. Say 3/32" to 7/64", not over 3mm to start.
And that's it. It really isn't more complicated than that. Just takes a little bit of patience. But it will prove about one of the most dependable productive winds you're likely to do at whatever resistance or wind style you choose.
Don't hesitate to tap me on the shoulder if you need help. Glad to do it bro. Look me up or super_x on that thread you were at.
Good luck and take care.
