Subtank RBA builds? show em!

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ErnieKim

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No, not at $8 each! But I still don't encourage the procedure unless all other avenues have been tried!

But they aren't available right now.

Look at the size of the juice holes in the OCC and compare them to the juice holes in the RBA. They're 10 times bigger in the OCC. Someone mentioned "smart engineers" involved in the design? All of these companies leave the "design" considerations to Us; the users. 1) They copy another companies tank, 2) crank them out as fast as they can, 3) we do the beta testing and provide info through these forums, and 4) they modify the tank accordingly. Is this bad? Not really, Apple does it and they're worth billions.
I guess what I am getting at here is that we can't be afraid to modify tanks, just don't modify them drastically, make the holes a wee bit bigger and see how it goes.
ErnieKim
 

MacTechVpr

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All a ya's good!

:D

Talked to ya'll and we're all runnin into the same sh!!t more or less. One thing obvious to me is the Subtank serious is rad diff from previous incarnations of Kanger's and def most clearo's. I wouldn't jump on design problems. Things are there for a reason. D's right on that score. OTH, I have seen fitment and design variations, i.e. diff slots on the Subtank, not the mini. People are seeing diff results 'cause they are changin' up things like wire, winds on the OCC's. And we'll prolly see more of this. We need insurance. Some basics to feel our way around here.

KISS applies I think. There are vacuum differences which dry out Kanger's OCC chunky wicks. It's not a flow problem. Restoring vacuum is easy, blow. I love the idea of increasing flow rate. But you gotta be able to build with precision and symmetry to take advantage of it or you flood (and dry hit w/power). Kanger solved the problem by throwin' huge coils and wick at us. But that just diffuses the vape pedal to the metal and blows a lot of juice out the tailpipe. That's not vapor production. Even with the flow there is ya need thicker wicks than we've been used to . Again, ya gotta build tighter matching power and airflow to 'em….more than ever.

So the moral of the story is…ya gotta rebuild. The tighter the spec, the tighter the wind. Even Kanker focused on symmetry this time out. There is no better measure than building to a baseline single wire tensioned standard. One that'll reliably give you your vape (flavor, texture, volume) every time.

Two good threads goin' right now apart from this one on the SubTMini for one and mountains of info and contributions on the other on how to get power outta the vape with tension. Urge you all to follow both. The crew of vets grows large on…

KangerTech SUBTANK Mini


Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!


If you're not subscribed, hit it!

CYA there and g'luck.

:)


IMG_1414a.jpgIMG_1415a.jpgIMG_1416a.jpg
 

Darryl Licht

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I was noticing some real air restriction on the draw with my rba deck last night. When I looked through the air slot it appears that the air holes on the bottom of the rba deck were cut off about 20%.

I never looked before so my question is : are the air holes supposed to be fully exposed?


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An image here might get your point across much better... I have no idea what you mean by cut off about 20%...???
 

jefx

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I was noticing some real air restriction on the draw with my rba deck last night. When I looked through the air slot it appears that the air holes on the bottom of the rba deck were cut off about 20%.

I never looked before so my question is : are the air holes supposed to be fully exposed?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I understand what you are saying....

If you look through the adjustable airslot, on the base section, while the RBA is attached, you can see the airholes in the bottom of the post. It appears (from that angle) the the airholes in the post are partially obstructed by the surrounding portion of the base itself.

However, I don't think that to be the case. The internal section of the base (where the post screws in) flairs outward. So I don't think it actually restricts airflow......It only appears as if it does, from that angle.
 

jefx

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There are vacuum differences which dry out Kanger's OCC chunky wicks. It's not a flow problem. Restoring vacuum is easy, blow.

I notice vacuum problems are more common, the fuller the tank is. Especially if I fill it to the maximum by filling liquid higher than the upper chimney lip (I think it's van der Waals forces that allow you to do so).

Anyway, a "blow" through the drip tip somehow fixes the vacuum problem temporarily, until the fluid level starts to become lower due to use. Then the vacuum problem goes away.
 

jj6404

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I think I understand what you are saying....

If you look through the adjustable airslot, on the base section, while the RBA is attached, you can see the airholes in the bottom of the post. It appears (from that angle) the the airholes in the post are partially obstructed by the surrounding portion of the base itself.

However, I don't think that to be the case. The internal section of the base (where the post screws in) flairs outward. So I don't think it actually restricts airflow......It only appears as if it does, from that angle.

Yes. This is exactly what I'm saying. So it does flair out? Hmm, I didn't notice that. I have no idea then why my airflow seems so restricted. I have a single parallel 5 wrap 26 gauge in there so maybe the 10 wraps is too big but I've seen people do big builds in their subtanks here before.


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MacTechVpr

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Look at the size of the juice holes in the OCC and compare them to the juice holes in the RBA. They're 10 times bigger in the OCC. Someone mentioned "smart engineers" involved in the design? All of these companies leave the "design" considerations to Us; the users. 1) They copy another companies tank, 2) crank them out as fast as they can, 3) we do the beta testing and provide info through these forums, and 4) they modify the tank accordingly. Is this bad? Not really, Apple does it and they're worth billions.
I guess what I am getting at here is that we can't be afraid to modify tanks, just don't modify them drastically, make the holes a wee bit bigger and see how it goes.
ErnieKim

Hi neighbor, not 10x but yeah good pick-up E.. I have the sneaky suspicion they're a little more deliberate than merely copying. But they do make this stuff all over RoC, I believe. Doubt tho you have a dedicated Kanger factory. Rather some that also produce Kanger and that's where your reasoning makes sense (overlap). Apple does however do QC in China. Really no comparison. But they had to build it themselves. And they've gotten the result often times elusive in other parts of the world. So they're def paying a price for it. They haven't always. I know. My iPhone actually works.

Good luck E.

:)

p.s. I agree we're being used as part of the design team, lol.
 

jefx

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Yes. This is exactly what I'm saying. So it does flair out? Hmm, I didn't notice that.

I think it does, at least. It appears to flair out and away from the post. That's what it looks like to me by peering into the AFC with a flashlight.

Just FYI, the RBA deck has considerably less airflow than the coil heads. I modified my RBA to get higher airflow.
 

Darryl Licht

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OMG! I just put a new twisted tension in my STM RBA: 8 winds of 30AWG A1 on a 2.25mm mandrel. Can you say "flavor machine"? Come on say it... I know you want to! LOL!

This thing is incredible... screw the whole you gotta be at 0.5 or below theory to get dense vapor and insane flavor!

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
(Cig: I know I didn't put a twist rate in... if I do SE tells me I should only have done 4-5 wraps) <-- Not sure what's going on there! I tried both, and the 8 wraps hit my mark and completely cover the air inlet beneath!

I also took the advice of Mac and Cig and put more KGD wick in than previous builds; had to pull it from either end to prevent distorting my coil and wow, Wow, WOW!!!

I'll post a few images once imgur fixes whatever is going on with them... none of my images are now showing up anywhere on the web!

Tension works folks, it isn't hard or anymore time cosuming than wrapping a normal "standard" coil either. I'm using the Artistic Coil Gizmo that I picked up for $7+ with my Michaels 40% off. It's well worth the $! However, I will also be getting a few pin vices to do builds by hand as well! This is the future of vaping, I am confident of that!

Coil on mandrel:
k6KSDgw.jpg

I got the tension on this coil so that the links within the twists fit into each other perfectly.

In the rba:
Le4dDaF.jpg

The image makes it appear that the top and bottom legs are distorted (they're not) just my damn cell cam!

However, as cig noted in earlier post; we should wind in the opposite direction to make sure the hold down screws pull the legs, and not push them when tightening!
 
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USMCotaku

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Yes. This is exactly what I'm saying. So it does flair out? Hmm, I didn't notice that. I have no idea then why my airflow seems so restricted. I have a single parallel 5 wrap 26 gauge in there so maybe the 10 wraps is too big but I've seen people do big builds in their subtanks here before.


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Which sub tank are you using? The rba on the full size sub tank has considerably less air flow then the occ heads, I think even the chimney section for the rba on that one is more restricted even. It's for that reason that I only use occ head on my full size (they are as easy to rebuild as the rba if not easier), I do like the rba on my mini though, it has plenty of air flow
 

jj6404

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Which sub tank are you using? The rba on the full size sub tank has considerably less air flow then the occ heads, I think even the chimney section for the rba on that one is more restricted even. It's for that reason that I only use occ head on my full size (they are as easy to rebuild as the rba if not easier), I do like the rba on my mini though, it has plenty of air flow

the subtank mini...
 

jefx

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OMG! I just put a new twisted tension in my STM RBA
Tension works folks, it isn't hard or anymore time cosuming than wrapping a normal "standard" coil either. This is the future of vaping, I am confident of that!

I tried a few tensioned coils. A couple of them micro and one twisted. Followed the concepts from the "tensioned" thread. I didn't really notice a difference, other than my coils gunked up quicker. I posted there earlier today asking what benefits I was supposed to actually get, but no one has answered.
 

Darryl Licht

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I tried a few tensioned coils. A couple of them micro and one twisted. Followed the concepts from the "tensioned" thread. I didn't really notice a difference, other than my coils gunked up quicker. I posted there earlier today asking what benefits I was supposed to actually get, but no one has answered.

Can you show us an image of one of these tensioned coils of yours?

I vaped on my 2nd twisted coil for a about 6 days and had no gunking, it is supposed to be one of the benefits of a properly tensioned coil; longer lasting and better flavor all around. Mine burn cooler too and with vapor density equal to higher wattage and lower res coils.
 

jefx

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Can you show us an image of one of these tensioned coils of yours?

I can take a pic of what they look like now, but I don't know what good that will do. I have since removed them, torched them clean, and placed them in my baggie with a bunch of other used coils.... If you still want to see a pic, let me know, I will take a couple and post them up.
 

jefx

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ten coil.jpg

These are the tensioned coils. Again, I torched them clean and tossed them in my reusable coil bag.


jig.jpg

This is the basic jig I used. My mandrel (screwdriver) chucked into my power drill. The coil clamped to the mandrel with a needle nose vise grip. 2 large vise grips clamped to the spool hanging from the mandrel. Then, of course, I slowly turned the power driver to wind the coil.


scale.jpg

That's the weight of the vise grips I used for tension. Approx. 3 lbs......Maybe that's not enough?
 

Darryl Licht

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View attachment 418333

These are the tensioned coils. Again, I torched them clean and tossed them in my reusable coil bag.


View attachment 418334

This is the basic jig I used. My mandrel (screwdriver) chucked into my power drill. The coil clamped to the mandrel with a needle nose vise grip. 2 large vise grips clamped to the spool hanging from the mandrel. Then, of course, I slowly turned the power driver to wind the coil.


View attachment 418335

That's the weight of the vise grips I used for tension. Approx. 3 lbs......Maybe that's not enough?

Yeah, I don't think 3lbs is enough weight if your going to use dead weight. I believe another poster had tried 20lbs (kept breaking wire) and settled on 10lbs.
I know I'm pulling with more force than 3lbs for sure.
 
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