$9 for 30' is good for a vape shop price... most in my area charge .50-$1 per foot! Highway robbery, when you can buy 100' for $8 from Temco!
HAS ANYONE HERE MODIFIED THE RBA DECK BY DRILLING SLIGHTLY LARGER juice HOLES?
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Subtank RBA builds? show em!
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$9 for 30' is good for a vape shop price... most in my area charge .50-$1 per foot! Highway robbery, when you can buy 100' for $8 from Temco!
HAS ANYONE HERE MODIFIED THE RBA DECK BY DRILLING SLIGHTLY LARGER juice HOLES?
Study and use the coil calculator at Steam Engine and see for yourself: Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
As an example using 26g and a target of a 1 ohm coil:
1mm = 14-15 wraps
2mm = 9-10 wraps
3mm = 7 wraps
Larger die/drillbit/screwdriver/jig = fewer wraps for the same target resistance!
A couple people have drilled the juice channels on this thread
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/644323-kangertech-subtank-mini-105.html
But its not necessary ☺
Here's my pics of my modded RBA deck. Wife's stock RBA deck left. My modded RBA deck right. Sorry for the iPhone 4S quality and lack of focus. Rum runners are involved. Only took me a few minutes with a dremel cutting wheel.
So why do you wrap your coils farther apart like that instead of way tight? Im new to RDAs and am just trying to learn as quickly as I can.
This is one place to try if you're having trouble making your coils look good. I know its a really long video but it is gold as far as wrapping good coils goes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNpc0WU-1Co
Today I wanted to see if I could improve upon the original twisted coil I built for my STM. The challenge I've found with twisted wire is it is very springy. Even torching the wire prior to winding doesn't seem to remove much of the stiffness. When I built the first one I wound on a 3/32" screw driver but the coils really opened up to over .100" diameter or nearly 3mm. So for this build I picked a smaller mandrel 5/64" / 2mm and wound with as much tension as my fingers could muster. I ended up with an extra wrap bringing the total to six and only gained a tenth of an ohm of resistance.
30g twisted single coil
5/64" -- .078" -- 2mm Coil I.D.
6 wraps -- 1.2 Ohms
On a 4.2 volt battery this coil pulls 3.5 amps @ 14.7 watts. I'm running the atomizer on a Hana Modz DNA 40 @ 17 watts and it is working great.
Thanks to the OP jlwiseman who suggested flipping my coil legs to the bottom to raise the coil up farther from the air hole to increase vapor production. Even at lower wattages I do notice thicker vapor and the taste is still there.
RandyF's nickel build looks great. I've yet to try temperature control with my DNA 40 but when I do it will most likely be with the STM and I have been wondering about a nickel build for the Subtank. Thanks Randy!
30g twisted single coil
5/64" -- .078" -- 2mm Coil I.D.
6 wraps -- 1.2 Ohms
On a 4.2 volt battery this coil pulls 3.5 amps @ 14.7 watts. I'm running the atomizer on a Hana Modz DNA 40 @ 17 watts and it is working great.
Thanks to the OP jlwiseman who suggested flipping my coil legs to the bottom to raise the coil up farther from the air hole to increase vapor production. Even at lower wattages I do notice thicker vapor and the taste is still there.
RandyF's nickel build looks great. I've yet to try temperature control with my DNA 40 but when I do it will most likely be with the STM and I have been wondering about a nickel build for the Subtank. Thanks Randy!
Today I wanted to see if I could improve upon the original twisted coil I built for my STM. The challenge I've found with twisted wire is it is very springy. Even torching the wire prior to winding doesn't seem to remove much of the stiffness. When I built the first one I wound on a 3/32" screw driver but the coils really opened up to over .100" diameter or nearly 3mm. So for this build I picked a smaller mandrel 5/64" / 2mm and wound with as much tension as my fingers could muster. I ended up with an extra wrap bringing the total to six and only gained a tenth of an ohm of resistance.
30g twisted single coil
5/64" -- .078" -- 2mm Coil I.D.
6 wraps -- 1.2 Ohms
On a 4.2 volt battery this coil pulls 3.5 amps @ 14.7 watts. I'm running the atomizer on a Hana Modz DNA 40 @ 17 watts and it is working great.
Thanks to the OP jlwiseman who suggested flipping my coil legs to the bottom to raise the coil up farther from the air hole to increase vapor production. Even at lower wattages I do notice thicker vapor and the taste is still there.
RandyF's nickel build looks great. I've yet to try temperature control with my DNA 40 but when I do it will most likely be with the STM and I have been wondering about a nickel build for the Subtank. Thanks Randy!
Kanger has released nickle occ heads for the sub tanks if you don't feel like messing with nickle wire builds
Today I wanted to see if I could improve upon the original twisted coil I built for my STM. The challenge I've found with twisted wire is it is very springy. Even torching the wire prior to winding doesn't seem to remove much of the stiffness. When I built the first one I wound on a 3/32" screw driver but the coils really opened up to over .100" diameter or nearly 3mm. So for this build I picked a smaller mandrel 5/64" / 2mm and wound with as much tension as my fingers could muster. I ended up with an extra wrap bringing the total to six and only gained a tenth of an ohm of resistance.
30g twisted single coil
5/64" -- .078" -- 2mm Coil I.D.
6 wraps -- 1.2 Ohms
On a 4.2 volt battery this coil pulls 3.5 amps @ 14.7 watts. I'm running the atomizer on a Hana Modz DNA 40 @ 17 watts and it is working great.
Thanks to the OP jlwiseman who suggested flipping my coil legs to the bottom to raise the coil up farther from the air hole to increase vapor production. Even at lower wattages I do notice thicker vapor and the taste is still there.
RandyF's nickel build looks great. I've yet to try temperature control with my DNA 40 but when I do it will most likely be with the STM and I have been wondering about a nickel build for the Subtank. Thanks Randy!
Glad it worked for you bud... I'm working on perfecting an occ rebuild that's repeatable so I can build a few spares to keep for on the go changes and then I'm gonna focus back on making my rba perform how I want.
Wicking makes all the difference with the occ heads. Poking the wick ends through the holes is key I've found
Yea, I built a 0.8 ohm coil tonight before bed. 26ga, 6 wraps around a 2.5mm rod, wicked lightly enough to just barely drag through the coil, but I cut the ends long and poked them into the juice holes on the head. Vaping at 23w right now and really liking it. We'll see how it performs through a whole tank. But so far, nice cool vape, great cloud, no spitting or popping to speak of.
My first twisted with tension is done! 
Because this was experimental and somewhat spur of the moment, I went to my local B&M intending to pick up some 30AWG A1 for a tensioned twisted coil. They were out of 30, so I went with 28 and I had to adjust my original intended build just a bit.
I did 7 wraps aiming at .7 ohms resistance.
Specs here: Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
I hit the nail on the head! Right on my ohm mark and so incredible on the flavor at 15-30W!
This is the best image I could muster with poor lighting and a cell phone.
This was prior to firing the coil for a burn test. After some very minor adjustments she was lighting up perfectly from the center outwards.
I spent my time trimming the wick to just brush the bottom of the build deck and juiced it up, then I gently fanned out the wick from post to post across the deck. I'll try to take some more pics when I re-juice later.
Because this was experimental and somewhat spur of the moment, I went to my local B&M intending to pick up some 30AWG A1 for a tensioned twisted coil. They were out of 30, so I went with 28 and I had to adjust my original intended build just a bit.
I did 7 wraps aiming at .7 ohms resistance.
Specs here: Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
I hit the nail on the head! Right on my ohm mark and so incredible on the flavor at 15-30W!
This is the best image I could muster with poor lighting and a cell phone.
This was prior to firing the coil for a burn test. After some very minor adjustments she was lighting up perfectly from the center outwards.
I spent my time trimming the wick to just brush the bottom of the build deck and juiced it up, then I gently fanned out the wick from post to post across the deck. I'll try to take some more pics when I re-juice later.
I don't see how this could be better than leaving the juice holes clear. How can two tiny slivers of cotton poking through those tiny holes wick fast and well enough?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I gave up on the occ heads for now. Threw a 24ga coil in my rba tonight. 6 wraps around a 3mm mandrel. Wicked like a kayfun. Vapes great from 25-45 watts at 0.4 ohm. I can really taylor the temp and flavor by adjusting the airflow and wattage. Exactly what I wanted. A versatile setup that will perform over a wide range.
So to day I went inside out I guess. I made the coil line up with the air flow so far its rock in trying to post pics
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