Subtank RBA builds? show em!
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I'm not sure if I was getting dry hits or if the juice was just no good. Tell me: should the wick be going outside of the RBA deck? Like through the juice holes?
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Glowing nicely from the inside out, even though my wraps aren't completely gap-free.
I'd say pretty good for a first attempt even tho a coiler helps get ya close with 24g. But you've got a hot leg per the above pic and it's not just from gaps. Yeah, you took a nic hit and it's a double-good one too if you're micro's runaway hot on ya. But it's the short that's makin' the wind go hot.
Although you might have many small gaps using that coiler…yes, even with 24AWG, it's that intermittent neg lead contact where you gap off on the high side of that end turn that's likely givin' you the burn. Not goin' rebuild on this thread so I'll point you to my post earlier today on the thread I host with super_X_drifter which deals exactly with this issue of what makes micro's work. Read this post and you may begin to understand why…
Re: Why don't microcoils work?
It's not just the wind, or properly developing alumina insulation. Lot of microcoil vets posting to the above advanced thread on how to build with symmetry. You have the skills to perfect that very build in short order with what you'll find there.
Good luck.
No. Juice channels should be clear, I shine a light on them, if I can't see the light up top, I thin out or reposition wick tails
I'd say pretty good for a first attempt even tho a coiler helps get ya close with 24g. But you've got a hot leg per the above pic and it's not just from gaps. Yeah, you took a nic hit and it's a double-good one too if you're micro's runaway hot on ya. But it's the short that's makin' the wind go hot.
Although you might have many small gaps using that coiler yes, even with 24AWG, it's that intermittent neg lead contact where you gap off on the high side of that end turn that's likely givin' you the burn. Not goin' rebuild on this thread so I'll point you to my post earlier today on the thread I host with super_X_drifter which deals exactly with this issue of what makes micro's work. Read this post and you may begin to understand why
Re: Why don't microcoils work?
It's not just the wind, or properly developing alumina insulation. Lot of microcoil vets posting to the above advanced thread on how to build with symmetry. You have the skills to perfect that very build in short order with what you'll find there.
Good luck.
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Good call on the hot leg..... On my phone it just looked like reflection from the coil
Definitely want to work your coil, get rid of that
Good call on the hot leg..... On my phone it just looked like reflection from the coil
Definitely want to work your coil, get rid of that
How do I fix that? Is it from it not being completely straight?
A pair of tweezers. Rotate pinching the coil and firing it until only the coil glows, from the inside out.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
You can take a piece of wood break it in two and settle for the rough cut. Or you can take a saw to it and get the fine. Which is more work? Prollly not one over the other. With one it just works, it'll fit your needs exactly; with the other, depends, maybe.
Back in the day I heard anecdotally as a tech that the insiders at IBM used to call mauling, bending, wrenchin' stuff into place forming when you didn't have the part or the means to get a good one. Know it may seem like I'm belaboring the point but isn't really just better to get a solid electrically sound coil in the first place?
Yeah there's some body mechanics we need to groove in. Need to make the connection in mind and memory to why you didn't get that hot leg. Make the associations to how much tension was applied to reach adhesion for 27AWG. There's is a learning curve, shallow, but it takes a few. Then compression and all the unpredictable tweaks we applied to open winds to fix all the unpredictable results start to seem like an old habit rather than a solution. Strain lets you get the geometry dead on from the get go. Whether in the wind or approaches we use to install the coil. Doesn't replace or make compression obsolete. Each has it's place.
Once you build a tensioned microcoil, it just works. The reasons it didn't still remain whether we form to fix successfully or not. It takes seconds to make another.
I know, I've built more than a few of these. And my biggest discovery is that I easily spent 10X the effort trying to fix coils, tensioned or not, than just makin' a good one.
I'd rather be gettin' the vape on. Just sayin' USM.
Thanks for the nod on the short. I know we're all tryin' to do our best here to help others get over, succeed and join us.
Good luck all.
You can take a piece of wood break it in two and settle for the rough cut. Or you can take a saw to it and get the fine. Which is more work? Prollly not one over the other. With one it just works, it'll fit your needs exactly; with the other, depends, maybe.
Back in the day I heard anecdotally as a tech that the insiders at IBM used to call mauling, bending, wrenchin' stuff into place forming when you didn't have the part or the means to get a good one. Know it may seem like I'm belaboring the point but isn't really just better to get a solid electrically sound coil in the first place?
Yeah there's some body mechanics we need to groove in. Need to make the connection in mind and memory to why you didn't get that hot leg. Make the associations to how much tension was applied to reach adhesion for 27AWG. There's is a learning curve, shallow, but it takes a few. Then compression and all the unpredictable tweaks we applied to open winds to fix all the unpredictable results start to seem like an old habit rather than a solution. Strain lets you get the geometry dead on from the get go. Whether in the wind or approaches we use to install the coil. Doesn't replace or make compression obsolete. Each has it's place.
Once you build a tensioned microcoil, it just works. The reasons it didn't still remain whether we form to fix successfully or not. It takes seconds to make another.
I know, I've built more than a few of these. And my biggest discovery is that I easily spent 10X the effort trying to fix coils, tensioned or not, than just makin' a good one.
I'd rather be gettin' the vape on. Just sayin' USM.
Thanks for the nod on the short. I know we're all tryin' to do our best here to help others get over, succeed and join us.
Good luck all.
Well, he did ask how to get rid of THAT hot leg.....not how to make a coil without getting hot legs
My coils almost never get hot legs, unless I'm being lazy or rushing...
Cause they look like this when I wrap it
Addendum....... It's because I'm OCD
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
I have received a lot of help from people around this forum and I believe it is time for me to give back.
I have heard people complaining getting dry hit with high vg juice while using the Subtank RBA.
I had that problem too until I wick in the following way.
I hope this can help everyone who are seeking for a way to vape high vg juice in the Subtank.
I am using 28 gauge wire (7 wraps, 2.5 mm diameter, 1.4 ohm) with organic cotton from Target.
Put the cotton in, and trim it as width as the base
Screw the tube in and the cotton should look a little messy
See the screw driver and wire? I use them to "comb" the cotton
I believe this can result better wicking by loosen up and assure the cotton's fibers are in the same direction
I use this easy wicking method and have no trouble vaping 80%vg juice.
Hope this help.
I have heard people complaining getting dry hit with high vg juice while using the Subtank RBA.
I had that problem too until I wick in the following way.
I hope this can help everyone who are seeking for a way to vape high vg juice in the Subtank.
I am using 28 gauge wire (7 wraps, 2.5 mm diameter, 1.4 ohm) with organic cotton from Target.
Put the cotton in, and trim it as width as the base
Screw the tube in and the cotton should look a little messy
See the screw driver and wire? I use them to "comb" the cotton
I believe this can result better wicking by loosen up and assure the cotton's fibers are in the same direction
I use this easy wicking method and have no trouble vaping 80%vg juice.
Hope this help.
Well, he did ask how to get rid of THAT hot leg.....not how to make a coil without getting hot legs
My coils almost never get hot legs, unless I'm being lazy or rushing...
...Cause they look like this when I wrap it
Exactly my point USM. If you build with symmetry from the get go you've got most of the problem licked. You're way past the minor leagues with your exhibit. I'm all about gettin' peeps there. Not a critic of anyone's style.
Vape on bro.
Good luck.
Here's the build I'm using in my old-ish, large SubTank. I dig this thing a LOT. Like many of you have already said, it's like a fat Kayfun with better airflow and probably more flavor, IMHO.
Nothing special compared to some of these other builds, but here 'tis. Maybe these could help out a beginner? This is just a 0.8Ω coil at about 23 watts on my cana box. I think I used 26 gauge kanthal.
SubTank RBA build 0002 by zipflint, on Flickr
SubTank RBA build 0003 by zipflint, on Flickr
SubTank RBA build 0004 by zipflint, on Flickr
SubTank RBA build 0005 by zipflint, on Flickr
Nothing special compared to some of these other builds, but here 'tis. Maybe these could help out a beginner? This is just a 0.8Ω coil at about 23 watts on my cana box. I think I used 26 gauge kanthal.
SubTank RBA build 0002 by zipflint, on FlickrSubTank RBA build 0003 by zipflint, on FlickrSubTank RBA build 0004 by zipflint, on FlickrSubTank RBA build 0005 by zipflint, on FlickrMan, I still can't get a coil to not have hot legs. It's making me very sadface. I've ordered an Artistic Wire Coil Gizmo to possibly help, by allowing me to perform the method prescribed by Super_X_Drifter and Mac, so hopefully that helps me out.
This is a clapton I made yesterday. Vapes like a champion nightmare. .5 ohms and beautiful wicking.
I am so mad about this thread!!!
1 I ordered my Mini today, and not working on a build now.
2 I did not get any wire to build when it arrives.
3 I have had to fill my pro tank 3 in the time it took to read this whole thread
4 There better be a thread better then this, as if I read another thread, I figure that it will not contain much more useful info then this one. So will be disappointing reading other threads as think I just read the filet Mignon one.
5 I was hungry hours ago, now starving. But can not eat yet, read 6 for the reason
6 Reading through this thread I now have a zillion more tabs open to read.
7 Did not take the dogs for a walk, and they are mad and went to bed already.
I chose the Mini due to the fact that it was easy to rebuild, as was sick of buying coils for my pro tanks. I know I can rebuild them, but was always nervous about it due to the fact did not have a decent battery. So hopefully on Wednesday will get my order from MBV with the Mini and the MVP 3.
I would like to thank everyone for posting of the pics and posting of their builds to give us nubs who have never done the rebuilds before, guidance. At least now I have a couple of days to learn more before I start making hot legs, messy coils, dump a full tank out for forgetting parts to put on and making a coil that just will not work.
1 I ordered my Mini today, and not working on a build now.
2 I did not get any wire to build when it arrives.
3 I have had to fill my pro tank 3 in the time it took to read this whole thread
4 There better be a thread better then this, as if I read another thread, I figure that it will not contain much more useful info then this one. So will be disappointing reading other threads as think I just read the filet Mignon one.
5 I was hungry hours ago, now starving. But can not eat yet, read 6 for the reason
6 Reading through this thread I now have a zillion more tabs open to read.
7 Did not take the dogs for a walk, and they are mad and went to bed already.
I chose the Mini due to the fact that it was easy to rebuild, as was sick of buying coils for my pro tanks. I know I can rebuild them, but was always nervous about it due to the fact did not have a decent battery. So hopefully on Wednesday will get my order from MBV with the Mini and the MVP 3.
I would like to thank everyone for posting of the pics and posting of their builds to give us nubs who have never done the rebuilds before, guidance. At least now I have a couple of days to learn more before I start making hot legs, messy coils, dump a full tank out for forgetting parts to put on and making a coil that just will not work.
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