Subtank TC Coils

[Way2Gone]

I posted on here the other day about getting ready in a few weeks to get the money for an upgrade to Temp Control. Im kind of excited but kind of nevous as well because I don't know what to expect.

But anyways. Back to the point. I seen in another thread about Subtank Temp Control coils. I have a Subtank Mini with 1 ohm coils and they absolutely have no airflow at all hardly and suck. But, I seen a picture of the Temp control coils from another member here that posted a picture of them and they look way different than the coils I bought from a local vape shop here in town and look like they might be worth my while.

Questions I have are. Does anybody have any experience with these coils on temp control and are they any good? How is the airflow when using them?

I am still wanting to get into an RTA but I don't know if I am going to right now as I might not have enough for all of the upgrade stuff that I need to get going.

 

[BillW50]

A Subtank comes with a RBA, so you already have a RTA. I always use the RBA in my eight Subtanks. As those Subtank stock coils can be hit or miss.

 

[Way2Gone]

A Subtank comes with a RBA, so you already have a RTA. I always use the RBA in my eight Subtanks. As those Subtank stock coils can be hit or miss.

I know but the juice flow air holes don't hardly work for me, they are too small. All I get is burnt hits and I have tried rewicking it several different times before. Granted I could drill them out and get metal shards all over the place, then have to clean it afterwards. It would probably work great then. I just haven't messed around with it and don't have a drill handy at the moment or wire to build right now. I am stocking up on stuff at the end of this month when my birthday comes.

 

[crxess]

You are not answering Ops question.

The coils will work as designed.
The performance will lie in your ability to porperly set you TC power for best performance.
Take your time, start low and work up to your sweet spot.

Unlike VW Vaping, the Vape does not get hotter the longer you inhale. It reaches set temperature and levels off.

 

[Way2Gone]

You are not answering Ops question.

The coils will work as designed.
The performance will lie in your ability to porperly set you TC power for best performance.
Take your time, start low and work up to your sweet spot.

Unlike VW Vaping, the Vape does not get hotter the longer you inhale. It reaches set temperature and levels off.

Thanks!

 

[Completely Average]

I use the Kanger SSOCC Ni200 coils in my Subtank. They work great at 550F and 50W. No ramp up time for the vapor and it creates nice clouds and good flavor.

There are actually two different versions of the SSOCC Ni200 coils. The older version had two smaller holes for the juice to flow in. The newer ones have three holes, two large ones on each side and a third smaller one in the middle. The picture I just posted is the newer version. With the three holes it can handle max VG juices and chain vaping without any loss in performance or dry hits. They work really well.

I use the newer version, not the older one. If you can, verify that the SSOCC coils have three juice holes before you buy them.

 

[Way2Gone]

I use the Kanger SSOCC Ni200 coils in my Subtank. They work great at 550F and 50W. No ramp up time for the vapor and it creates nice clouds and good flavor.

There are actually two different versions of the SSOCC Ni200 coils. The older version had two smaller holes for the juice to flow in. The newer ones have three holes, two large ones on each side and a third smaller one in the middle. The picture I just posted is the newer version. With the three holes it can handle max VG juices and chain vaping without any loss in performance or dry hits. They work really well.

I use the newer version, not the older one. If you can, verify that the SSOCC coils have three juice holes before you buy them.

Awesome, this was the coil that I was talking about. Thanks!

Yeah if I decide to continue using my Subtank, I will definately make sure I get this exact coil because I like vaping max VG juices and the holes are a must for those types of juices.

So they are Stainless less leads with the rest of the wire being nickel?

 

[Way2Gone]

Does anybody else have experience with these coils?

 

[Just Want To Quit]

My first experience with TC was with the Topbox Mini kit and the included NI and SS coils. Basically I was really impressed with both of them and especially noticed a difference with the NI200 compared to the Nicrhome OCC coils I've been vaping before. I've never had a problem with any of these coils except for the fact that the ohm readings are way off. I'm getting 0.23 on the Nickle which should be 0.15 and on the SS it was reading 0.63 when it should be 0.5.

I have no clue as to why some people say that High VG juices aren't good with these coils. I've been vaping 80 to 90% VG on both the subtank and toptank (OCC and SSOCC) for the past 5 months or so and the only time I get a dry hit is when the coil has reached it's end of life.

 

[Way2Gone]

My first experience with TC was with the Topbox Mini kit and the included NI and SS coils. Basically I was really impressed with both of them and especially noticed a difference with the NI200 compared to the Nicrhome OCC coils I've been vaping before. I've never had a problem with any of these coils except for the fact that the ohm readings are way off. I'm getting 0.23 on the Nickle which should be 0.15 and on the SS it was reading 0.63 when it should be 0.5.

I have no clue as to why some people say that High VG juices aren't good with these coils. I've been vaping 80 to 90% VG on both the subtank and toptank (OCC and SSOCC) for the past 5 months or so and the only time I get a dry hit is when the coil has reached it's end of life.

I have no clue as to why the readings would be that far off. Thats quite a bit it seems like.

Anyways, I am vaping MAX VG on my Atlantis right now and I don't think I have 1 burnt hit in like 5 days straight now using that juice. I might have had a dryer type hit only when the tank gets low and its not a full tank, which helps the juice flow obviously having a full tank. But even when I get a bit of a dryer type hit its almost not even noticeable nor bothersome too me. So I got to give it to Aspire.

Thanks for the discussion brother. I am just venting because I am excited about the end of this month when my birthday comes and I get to buy some new gear and I am definately going to go ahead and get the Temperature Control Boxes out now because why not? Even if I didn't use it I have it incase I need it, but I will be sure to be using it most of the time probably, just knowing me.

 

[Completely Average]

So they are Stainless less leads with the rest of the wire being nickel?

The outer casing is stainless steel rather than being a low grade steel that had been chromed over like their old version coils. The wire itself is nickel.

The SSOCC Ni200 coils work better than building your own coils on the RTA for the Subtank. The juice holes are significantly larger and there are three instead of just two, so they wick a whole lot better than the RTA section with it's two small holes do.

 

[Way2Gone]

The outer casing is stainless steel rather than being a low grade steel that had been chromed over like their old version coils. The wire itself is nickel.

The SSOCC Ni200 coils work better than building your own coils on the RTA for the Subtank. The juice holes are significantly larger and there are three instead of just two, so they wick a whole lot better than the RTA section with it's two small holes do.

I see now. Awesome. Yeah I am about to drill out the RBA base to get significantly larger juice flow and airflow holes on my RBA base, to use until I can afford to buy newer stuff.

 

[edyle]

......... I'm getting 0.23 on the Nickle which should be 0.15 and on the SS it was reading 0.63 when it should be 0.5.

..............

Contact resistance.

A 0.1 ohm extra resistance isn't exactly unusual.
That's one of the problems when attempting to run low ohm coils like 0.1 ohms. Everything has to be kept squeaky clean for very good electrical contact.

 

[Just Want To Quit]

Contact resistance.

A 0.1 ohm extra resistance isn't exactly unusual.
That's one of the problems when attempting to run low ohm coils like 0.1 ohms. Everything has to be kept squeaky clean for very good electrical contact.

I hear you! I try to keep those pins as clean as possible with a Q Tip. But even with doing that, it's still way off. I am aware that the ohms can change slightly and not just with TC coils too. All those old Nicrhome OCC coils I used to use.. almost all of them started at 0.5 and by the time they reached their EOL, they were usually 0.6.

But we are talking about over a .13 ohm difference here. Could there be any other explanations? Is this really normal? I've sent Kanger 3 emails in the past month and haven't heard back from them.

I have no clue as to why the readings would be that far off. Thats quite a bit it seems like.

Anyways, I am vaping MAX VG on my Atlantis right now and I don't think I have 1 burnt hit in like 5 days straight now using that juice. I might have had a dryer type hit only when the tank gets low and its not a full tank, which helps the juice flow obviously having a full tank. But even when I get a bit of a dryer type hit its almost not even noticeable nor bothersome too me. So I got to give it to Aspire.

Thanks for the discussion brother. I am just venting because I am excited about the end of this month when my birthday comes and I get to buy some new gear and I am definately going to go ahead and get the Temperature Control Boxes out now because why not? Even if I didn't use it I have it incase I need it, but I will be sure to be using it most of the time probably, just knowing me.

Glad you found something that works for you with Aspire. I do get dry hits on my Kanger tanks but only when the coil goes out or if I turn the wattage up to high and/or draw for too long.

TC is awesome! It's as if I can hold down the firebutton and take a super long drag and never have to worry about a nasty burnt surprise that's going to make me cough up a lung. Not only that, there was just something about that SS coil's flavor that set it apart from all the kanthal and nichrome heads I was originally using in VW mode.

My birthday is coming up too this week, and I'm thinking of treating myself to an RX200.. but I need to research a new tank with all the new info released by wismec. Best of luck to you brother and Happy Early birthday!

 

[Way2Gone]

I hear you! I try to keep those pins as clean as possible with a Q Tip. But even with doing that, it's still way off. I am aware that the ohms can change slightly and not just with TC coils too. All those old Nicrhome OCC coils I used to use.. almost all of them started at 0.5 and by the time they reached their EOL, they were usually 0.6.

But we are talking about over a .13 ohm difference here. Could there be any other explanations? Is this really normal? I've sent Kanger 3 emails in the past month and haven't heard back from them.



Glad you found something that works for you with Aspire. I do get dry hits on my Kanger tanks but only when the coil goes out or if I turn the wattage up to high and/or draw for too long.

TC is awesome! It's as if I can hold down the firebutton and take a super long drag and never have to worry about a nasty burnt surprise that's going to make me cough up a lung. Not only that, there was just something about that SS coil's flavor that set it apart from all the kanthal and nichrome heads I was originally using in VW mode.

My birthday is coming up too this week, and I'm thinking of treating myself to an RX200.. but I need to research a new tank with all the new info released by wismec. Best of luck to you brother and Happy Early birthday!

Happy Early birthday too you too bud! mine isn't until like the very end of march but I am planning well ahead because I am way to excited lol But yeah about the SS wire, that is what I am going with as well is stainless steel because that is what everybody is talking about is the best I guess.

 

[edyle]

..................... I am aware that the ohms can change slightly and not just with TC coils too. All those old Nicrhome OCC coils I used to use.. almost all of them started at 0.5 and by the time they reached their EOL, they were usually 0.6.

But we are talking about over a .13 ohm difference here. Could there be any other explanations? Is this really normal? I've sent Kanger 3 emails in the past month and haven't heard back from them.

those old nichrome coils started at 0.5 and ended at 0.6
now you see a difference of 0.1 ohm here.... ( 0.1, .13 same thing)

yeah.

 

[Completely Average]

My first experience with TC was with the Topbox Mini kit and the included NI and SS coils. Basically I was really impressed with both of them and especially noticed a difference with the NI200 compared to the Nicrhome OCC coils I've been vaping before. I've never had a problem with any of these coils except for the fact that the ohm readings are way off. I'm getting 0.23 on the Nickle which should be 0.15 and on the SS it was reading 0.63 when it should be 0.5.

It may be that the coils themselves are actually higher resistance than what they say. I believe that is the case with the Ni coils at the least.

Have you had a chance to try any other tanks with nickel coils on the same mod? See if those are reading nickel coils accurately? How about testing them on a separate ohm meter?

I run the Freemax Starre, Aspire Nautilus, and the Kanger Subtank Mini on my SnowWolf, all using Ni200 coils. Both the Starre and Nautilus coils are spot on with their resistance, but the Subtank with the SSOCC coils tends to read about .04-.08ohms higher than advertised. It may very well be that the SSOCC coils simply aren't the resistance that they claim to be.