Subzero clone issues
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I'll get some up tomorrow. Basically, with the rda/top cap screwed down, the pin is pushed all the way in by the battery. This then drives the pin into the "clutch system" and causes it to fire unless you back off the bottom cap. You don't get this with an AV clone. Question is, can I be assed to reduce the pin length or shall I just return it.
Below are some pictures to see if anyone has any ideas. My thinking is that the pin is too long as the switch will work if I push the pin into the tube a little, however, this then means that I cannot get an RDA to sit flush on the top cap as there is not enough room in the tube for the top contact and a battery. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Stupid question, what kinda battery are ya using? Flat top or button top?
That pin will move up or down you can take it out to measure even. just punch it out of the plastic it fits in to hold it in place.q
Yep, had that out a couple of times. Anyone know what it should measure as?
Difficult to tell from pictures, but pin height looks OK. Looks to me like the taper/profile of the pin is a bit off, not enough taper to it. You may be able to compensate for it by changing the spring out. As I briefly mentioned in the other thread, the spring that came with one of my clones caused issues. If you have anything that is close to it lying around try some different springs. You could also wind a few different springs using the solid copper center wire from various coaxial cable.
Make sure your clutch is smooth, on both sides, and clear of small protruding edges it takes very little change to the clutch to alter switch feel, so just polishing or removing a slight bit of metal makes noticeable difference, go slow if you decide to do this. The plating is very thin so be prepared for the copper to show through, which really does nothing to performance.
When it is working properly it has one of the nicest switches of any mech I've used. The pointier pin in the photo below is pretty close to 1:1 the blunt pin clone needed a bit of tinkering to get right, but performs equally well after. Blunt pinned looks closer to what you've got, and was also the one I had to mess with to get it working. I have a good supply of springs and it really only took finding the right one to get it working flawlessly. Well I did slightly alter the pin and clutch, but mostly only smoothing polishing, and making sure it had a uniform surface.
Problem with the Subzero clones is availability, SOI hit the china sellers hard with threats, and most gave in. Kindbright sold the best of them, and I believe that is who made my copper one. Focale has a Full length Legendary clone, mine works exceptionally well out of the box, think its about $17 right now. I've had all of mine for a while now use them everyday with zero issues.
availability and how much energy you want to put into getting it working should probably be your deciding factor. You can probably solve all your issues simply by purchasing the $20.00 upgrade kit from SOI. includes silver plated pin, clutch, and 510 pin with nut. All of it fits in all 3 of my clones perfectly.
The legendary long mode clone Focal sells is actually quite nice, and very close to 1:1. the three different clones I have all parts will interchange. so your shorty switch should fit on the legendary which SOI charges $30 for.
Don't know your skill level, or your patience level so you might be just better off returning and looking for a different one. On the other hand you could just mess with the one you have until you get it right. Did quite a few various experiments with my black one trying to get the switch just right. Started out firing erratically and with a very stiff and long throw. Tried a thin spacer in the delrin cup and various springs, in between all this I had the same issue as yours (couldn't tighten all the way without it firing. in the end it was just a matter of a proper spring for it. I'd be surprised if a good clean/polish and proper spring would not cure yours.
As for battery length that shouldn't be an issue, the battery pretty much locks everything in place above the clutch, too long battery will simply not allow the cap to be fully seated
If you have a caliper or something to get accurate measurements I can make some measurements on mine and possibly further pin down your issue.
Make sure your clutch is smooth, on both sides, and clear of small protruding edges it takes very little change to the clutch to alter switch feel, so just polishing or removing a slight bit of metal makes noticeable difference, go slow if you decide to do this. The plating is very thin so be prepared for the copper to show through, which really does nothing to performance.
When it is working properly it has one of the nicest switches of any mech I've used. The pointier pin in the photo below is pretty close to 1:1 the blunt pin clone needed a bit of tinkering to get right, but performs equally well after. Blunt pinned looks closer to what you've got, and was also the one I had to mess with to get it working. I have a good supply of springs and it really only took finding the right one to get it working flawlessly. Well I did slightly alter the pin and clutch, but mostly only smoothing polishing, and making sure it had a uniform surface.
Problem with the Subzero clones is availability, SOI hit the china sellers hard with threats, and most gave in. Kindbright sold the best of them, and I believe that is who made my copper one. Focale has a Full length Legendary clone, mine works exceptionally well out of the box, think its about $17 right now. I've had all of mine for a while now use them everyday with zero issues.
availability and how much energy you want to put into getting it working should probably be your deciding factor. You can probably solve all your issues simply by purchasing the $20.00 upgrade kit from SOI. includes silver plated pin, clutch, and 510 pin with nut. All of it fits in all 3 of my clones perfectly.
The legendary long mode clone Focal sells is actually quite nice, and very close to 1:1. the three different clones I have all parts will interchange. so your shorty switch should fit on the legendary which SOI charges $30 for.
Don't know your skill level, or your patience level so you might be just better off returning and looking for a different one. On the other hand you could just mess with the one you have until you get it right. Did quite a few various experiments with my black one trying to get the switch just right. Started out firing erratically and with a very stiff and long throw. Tried a thin spacer in the delrin cup and various springs, in between all this I had the same issue as yours (couldn't tighten all the way without it firing. in the end it was just a matter of a proper spring for it. I'd be surprised if a good clean/polish and proper spring would not cure yours.
As for battery length that shouldn't be an issue, the battery pretty much locks everything in place above the clutch, too long battery will simply not allow the cap to be fully seated
If you have a caliper or something to get accurate measurements I can make some measurements on mine and possibly further pin down your issue.
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That was beyond helpful. I appreciate the time you took to reply to my query.Difficult to tell from pictures, but pin height looks OK. Looks to me like the taper/profile of the pin is a bit off, not enough taper to it. You may be able to compensate for it by changing the spring out. As I briefly mentioned in the other thread, the spring that came with one of my clones caused issues. If you have anything that is close to it lying around try some different springs. You could also wind a few different springs using the solid copper center wire from various coaxial cable.
Make sure your clutch is smooth, on both sides, and clear of small protruding edges it takes very little change to the clutch to alter switch feel, so just polishing or removing a slight bit of metal makes noticeable difference, go slow if you decide to do this. The plating is very thin so be prepared for the copper to show through, which really does nothing to performance.
When it is working properly it has one of the nicest switches of any mech I've used. The pointier pin in the photo below is pretty close to 1:1 the blunt pin clone needed a bit of tinkering to get right, but performs equally well after. Blunt pinned looks closer to what you've got, and was also the one I had to mess with to get it working. I have a good supply of springs and it really only took finding the right one to get it working flawlessly. Well I did slightly alter the pin and clutch, but mostly only smoothing polishing, and making sure it had a uniform surface.
Problem with the Subzero clones is availability, SOI hit the china sellers hard with threats, and most gave in. Kindbright sold the best of them, and I believe that is who made my copper one. Focale has a Full length Legendary clone, mine works exceptionally well out of the box, think its about $17 right now. I've had all of mine for a while now use them everyday with zero issues.
availability and how much energy you want to put into getting it working should probably be your deciding factor. You can probably solve all your issues simply by purchasing the $20.00 upgrade kit from SOI. includes silver plated pin, clutch, and 510 pin with nut. All of it fits in all 3 of my clones perfectly.
The legendary long mode clone Focal sells is actually quite nice, and very close to 1:1. the three different clones I have all parts will interchange. so your shorty switch should fit on the legendary which SOI charges $30 for.
Don't know your skill level, or your patience level so you might be just better off returning and looking for a different one. On the other hand you could just mess with the one you have until you get it right. Did quite a few various experiments with my black one trying to get the switch just right. Started out firing erratically and with a very stiff and long throw. Tried a thin spacer in the delrin cup and various springs, in between all this I had the same issue as yours (couldn't tighten all the way without it firing. in the end it was just a matter of a proper spring for it. I'd be surprised if a good clean/polish and proper spring would not cure yours.
As for battery length that shouldn't be an issue, the battery pretty much locks everything in place above the clutch, too long battery will simply not allow the cap to be fully seated
If you have a caliper or something to get accurate measurements I can make some measurements on mine and possibly further pin down your issue.
After re-assembly, my issues have significantly reduced- but are not solved. I really like the mod, so tomorrow I am tempted to order the contact kit and see if that solves the issue. Ironically, this clone is the best machined one I have (bar my beloved Optic) and yet it's the only clone I cannot get to work.
A couple of questions... does your plastic disc protrude at all from the end cap? And how much throw does your switch have?
Thanks again
Hope the contact kit works in yours, it should, only thing I'd be concerned with is the pin above the clutch, the rest will, I'll bet the pin does as well. I waited a couple months before the upgrade parts were available again, they go in/out fairly often. throw is short on all the pointy pin one is shortest, just barely a slight push, spring can change that a bit. As for delrin cup, no protrusion on either of them.
If you have not already change out the crappy o-ring provided on the clutch, hit up your atty spares, you'll probably find one suitable.
All three of mine are very nicely machined, black one the finish is really durable so far, no chips or wearing, almost wondering if it is cerakote, or some other baked on ceramic. I've been super happy with mine, to the point I'll buy an authentic if they ever come in around $100.
If you have not already change out the crappy o-ring provided on the clutch, hit up your atty spares, you'll probably find one suitable.
All three of mine are very nicely machined, black one the finish is really durable so far, no chips or wearing, almost wondering if it is cerakote, or some other baked on ceramic. I've been super happy with mine, to the point I'll buy an authentic if they ever come in around $100.
My pin looks pointy, but the stock spring in mine was much thicker than the one in the pic's above. I pulled it and put in magnets, still no gap though on my shorty.
The throw is maybe 1 mm if that helps
The throw is maybe 1 mm if that helps
Thanks for the reply.
I have stripped the whole thing ready for the contacts (which hopefully will be here tomorrow). The spring looks pretty decent and appears to be plated as well, so I am going to leave that as is although I have squared it off. I have also found a much better o-ring for the clutch so will use that on the new set.
If all of this still doesn't work you may hear me swear from all the way over here
I have stripped the whole thing ready for the contacts (which hopefully will be here tomorrow). The spring looks pretty decent and appears to be plated as well, so I am going to leave that as is although I have squared it off. I have also found a much better o-ring for the clutch so will use that on the new set.
If all of this still doesn't work you may hear me swear from all the way over here
Visibly the springs which shipped in my three all look pretty much the same, functionally they were very different. Keep us posted on your progess! 
Apparently loaded springs no.16 works in the Subzero, so I have that option if need be. I don't have anything else that fits. Hopefully i won't have to change it.
No delivery today (so haven't sworn yet!) but I did splash out for a loaded spring in the end. Will report back as soon as I can.
Well the parts are here and....
SHE LIVES!!!
I'll load up some pics soon, but I think it was a sum of all the parts. The bottom pin had a completely different taper, the clutch contact has a different taper, and the top pin is shorter with a slightly thinner adjustable section.
Thanks for the help all.
SHE LIVES!!!
I'll load up some pics soon, but I think it was a sum of all the parts. The bottom pin had a completely different taper, the clutch contact has a different taper, and the top pin is shorter with a slightly thinner adjustable section.
Thanks for the help all.
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